bluer101

Kicker Upgrade

151 posts in this topic

Well I ordered new front speakers as my drivers front is blown. When turned up it make that terrible popping blown sound. I ordered the Kicker 41KSC44 which is the newer model. They will be here on Wednesday so I will see how they sound. I got 2 years out of them.

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Has anybody tried connecting to the cigaret lighter its 12volt ????

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Has anybody tried connecting to the cigaret lighter its 12volt ????

Sure you can if you need a amp turn on wire.

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I copied your setup but I just need the carpet where did you get it from

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I believe it was this carpet. I ordered 2 different carpets and one was way off, but this one sticks in my head from my eBay purchase history.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Xscorpion-AC415CND-40-X15Ft-Automotive-Carpet-Cinder-Color-/141450378012?nav=SEARCH

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I already got a carpet from Menards not the same but it's kinda close but I'm wondering did u put something under the kicker hideaway? And for the sound I love it it fills out the missing bass

post-2635-0-58431700-1446496391_thumb.jp

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I already got a carpet from Menards not the same but it's kinda close but I'm wondering did u put something under the kicker hideaway? And for the sound I love it it fills out the missing bass

If you look back on the first page with all my photos you will see I have the factory foam and inflators kit still there. The hide away is held in by wood crossmember that is attached to the board. I can remove the whole board very easy with hideaway attached.

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@bluer101 did your front factory speakers have pods that enclosed them on the bottom?

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It is real easy to hook up. I ended up buying the Metra speaker adapters so I did not have to cut any factory wires. No you do not need to remove the radio either. There are 6 wires that you need to connect to the Spark. You have the power wire that needs to be run up to the battery. Then you have your ground that gets hooked up to the rear seat center bolt. Then the final 4 wires get hooked to you rear speakers. Two wires to the right speaker and the other two wires to the left speaker, that's it. I ended up sinking it into the tire well to make it look factory and take up no extra room. I have so far tuned the sub correctly and it sounds excellent. By no means is it shaking the car beside you but it can really rock. It fills in the missing bass perfectly. If you can connect wires with crimps and run the wires through the vehicle then you can do this install. You can install it in the back without sinking it in the well. It also has one plug that can be quickly disconnected if needed more space.

The wire (positive wire) goes from the battery through the firewall where the clutch would go, but mine is automatic. Then route the wire down the drivers side to the back and under the rear seat to the sub. The ground is right the in the tire well, it's the center rear seat bolt. Then you just tap into the rear speakers. I ran the speaker wires from the sub to the center under the rear seat then back up to each rear speaker. As for the wires, they are all included in the Kicker Hideaway kit. As for wiring time, I spent about 1-3 hours for all of it. But it is all routed and zipped tied to look factory. The whole project took about 10 hours this weekend. As for storage, you can just flip down the seat and lift out the whole board. I still have the bottom foam and tire fill kit under there. As for bass sound, it is unbelievable for such as small package. It will make the rear view mirror vibrate so much when cranked. It is not a shake the car beside you but you can feel it pretty good in the Spark. My wife said she could here me coming down the street. It is a perfect match for me. As for price, I paid $270 at Best Buy, everything is included for hookup. No need to wire the remote turn on wire as the sub can turn on by the speaker wire input.

I know this may be the wrong spot, but did you keep the factory radio or upgrade that as well? I would like to put a simple new speaker and sub setup in mine as well and this is very helpful. Thanks!

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The wire (positive wire) goes from the battery through the firewall where the clutch would go, but mine is automatic. Then route the wire down the drivers side to the back and under the rear seat to the sub. The ground is right the in the tire well, it's the center rear seat bolt. Then you just tap into the rear speakers. I ran the speaker wires from the sub to the center under the rear seat then back up to each rear speaker. As for the wires, they are all included in the Kicker Hideaway kit. As for wiring time, I spent about 1-3 hours for all of it. But it is all routed and zipped tied to look factory. The whole project took about 10 hours this weekend. As for storage, you can just flip down the seat and lift out the whole board. I still have the bottom foam and tire fill kit under there. As for bass sound, it is unbelievable for such as small package. It will make the rear view mirror vibrate so much when cranked. It is not a shake the car beside you but you can feel it pretty good in the Spark. My wife said she could here me coming down the street. It is a perfect match for me. As for price, I paid $270 at Best Buy, everything is included for hookup. No need to wire the remote turn on wire as the sub can turn on by the speaker wire input.

Is this the same one as yours? If so I might get it cause it's only $169 and I found the speakers for $80. Really like your set up, clean cut.

Kicker HS8 8" Hideaway Powered 150 Watt Subwoofer Box (11HS8) - 11HS8-RS

Thanks!

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I know this may be the wrong spot, but did you keep the factory radio or upgrade that as well? I would like to put a simple new speaker and sub setup in mine as well and this is very helpful. Thanks!

Is this the same one as yours? If so I might get it cause it's only $169 and I found the speakers for $80. Really like your set up, clean cut.

Kicker HS8 8" Hideaway Powered 150 Watt Subwoofer Box (11HS8) - 11HS8-RS

Thanks!

Yes, I'm using the factory mylink radio. Also that is the same unit I have and that is a great price, but it's a factory refurbished unit. Edited by bluer101

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@bluer101 did your front factory speakers have pods that enclosed them on the bottom?

Sorry I never saw this, but no pods enclosing them.

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Sorry I never saw this, but no pods enclosing them.

his did, so we figured what the heck and reused them with the new speakers.

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How do you get the front covers off on the dash board? I really don't want to crack the plastic or crack the dash prying at it with a screw driver.

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How do you get the front covers off on the dash board? I really don't want to crack the plastic or crack the dash prying at it with a screw driver.

For mine I reached up under the dash to press the clips holding them. You can use a long screwdriver or something to push the clip.

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I was able to get a plastic pry tool under the edge of the cover and pop it off. They come off pretty easy. i couldn't reach it from underneath.

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Good you got it. I'm tall to begin with so it made it easier.

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That's a pretty dope setup and thanks for the detail especially the recommendation for speakers. One questions is I can't find. Does anyone know what size the front door speakers are on the 16' Spark LS? 

 

Also does anyone know if the MyLink radio have an rca input? 

Edited by Erik Gonzalez

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I'm not sure what size the 16 is and the Mylink does not have RCA. You can use the aux input if you like or for output use a line coverter. 

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Hello I have a 2013 chevy spark I was wondering if I got a deep cycle battery would I be able to hook a kicker 400watt amp and a alpine type r sub in the car I cannot change the alternator because then it will void my warranty looking back to hear from you asap

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Yup...just don't hook it up to your alternator..(BOOM)..get a proper charger and the stand alone deep cycle gel battery should power the amp for a long time before a recharge withe a separate charger..or maybe even the 12v console plug...check that 12v console suitability out first though.

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13 hours ago, Whooran said:

Hello I have a 2013 chevy spark I was wondering if I got a deep cycle battery would I be able to hook a kicker 400watt amp and a alpine type r sub in the car I cannot change the alternator because then it will void my warranty looking back to hear from you asap

Im running these on the stock battery and everything is fine:

http://www.jlaudio.com/rd500-1-car-audio-rd-amplifiers-98618

http://www.jlaudio.com/hx280-4-car-audio-hx-amplifiers-98401

I watch my voltage and it never drops below 12.5V while driving. Later Ill be adding a third amp(HX280/4) and will then have to get a better battery. Probably go with a XS Power.

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spacecowboy has been running a 500w+ RMS amp for about 3 weeks short of a year now, off of the stock alt and battery without a problem.

 

a 400w amp at constant full blast would only pull about 30 amps...  and most music has a pretty wide dynamic range, so you are extremely unlikely to be drawing that kind of power anywhere near constantly. as with any amp I also wouldn't recommend running it at full tilt constantly anyways. especially when just idling as most alts (even HO alts) don't make near full power at idle.

 

I definitely would not recommend running a dedicated second battery, even at only 30ish amps of power, a battery doesn't maintain a constant voltage, it starts around 12.6v at full charge and then drops as the battery is depleted, without the alt constantly charging the battery it wont take too long before the battery drops below what most car electronics are designed for, a good amp will just shut down or go into protect mode,. a less than good amp may just burn itself out. also charging the battery every day just for maybe 30-60 mins of sound will get very old. you also don't want to add a second battery tied into the same system as it will just add one more item for the alt to have to keep power supplied to as batteries don't create power and just store it, the only thing that is going to create the power is the alt (well technically not create but convert.

 

if your super worried about it, and you want a longer amount of reserve time (time you can listen to the radio with the engine off) then you can replace your existing battery with one better suited for such.  as for specifically a deep cycle battery, unless you are wanting to listen to the stereo to the point of a dead battery all the time (and risking damage to other electronics that are running) without causing damage to the battery, a deep cycle may not be your best choice.

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Okay, so I followed this same set up. But the only thing i did differently was I tapped into the fuse for the radio which is located right below the steering wheel. Now the problem I am having is that the Sub keeps shutting off or doesnt play the base when the volume is about 10.  Can anyone explain this?  

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7 hours ago, Devin Morton said:

Okay, so I followed this same set up. But the only thing i did differently was I tapped into the fuse for the radio which is located right below the steering wheel. Now the problem I am having is that the Sub keeps shutting off or doesnt play the base when the volume is about 10.  Can anyone explain this?  

What wire did you hookup to radio fuse?

 

You need to run the power wire directly to the battery with inline fuse. The fuse needs to be within a foot of battery. 

 

The ground can go right to one of the rear seatbelt bolts. 

 

Then your signal is coming coming from the rear speakers. 

 

The bass boost goes wherever you want it. 

 

Now, you might have the gains set wrong or to high on the sub. Are u using the same kicker hideaway?

 

 

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