bluer101

Kicker Upgrade

151 posts in this topic

Decided to make a separate thread for the upgrade photos.

Product

1.jpg

Hideaway

ec38e4b1-ca16-4c74-a578-767848fbab78.jpg

Fronts

6.jpg

Rears

4.jpg

Wiring Sub

w1.jpg

w2.jpg

w3.jpg

w4.jpg

w5.jpg

w6.jpg

CahBunkers and Cnsub98 like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
   


Remote Bass Control

c1.jpg

c2.jpg

c3.jpg

c4.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hideaway Install

7.jpg

9.jpg

10.jpg

12.jpg

13.jpg

14.jpg

15.jpg

16.jpg

17.jpg

18.jpg

Lill blu sparky and ANewSpark like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put those exact speakers in my spark less than a week after I got my car. A couple questions is how hard was it to wire the Sub? Where did you wire it to? Its a little confusing to follow the wiring of the sub. Also how much was the sub? Where did you get it? How long was the sub install? How difficult is it to wire? How much was the wire? Where did you get the wire? Lastly, how does the bass sound?

Sorry for all the questions but I would like to eventually throw a bass in myself.

It looks awesome. Is there a fold up or anywhere for extra space next to the sub?

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I put those exact speakers in my spark less than a week after I got my car. A couple questions is how hard was it to wire the Sub? Where did you wire it to? Its a little confusing to follow the wiring of the sub. Also how much was the sub? Where did you get it? How long was the sub install? How difficult is it to wire? How much was the wire? Where did you get the wire? Lastly, how does the bass sound?

Sorry for all the questions but I would like to eventually throw a bass in myself.

It looks awesome. Is there a fold up or anywhere for extra space next to the sub?

Thanks.

The wire (positive wire) goes from the battery through the firewall where the clutch would go, but mine is automatic. Then route the wire down the drivers side to the back and under the rear seat to the sub. The ground is right the in the tire well, it's the center rear seat bolt. Then you just tap into the rear speakers. I ran the speaker wires from the sub to the center under the rear seat then back up to each rear speaker.

As for the wires, they are all included in the Kicker Hideaway kit.

As for wiring time, I spent about 1-3 hours for all of it. But it is all routed and zipped tied to look factory. The whole project took about 10 hours this weekend.

As for storage, you can just flip down the seat and lift out the whole board. I still have the bottom foam and tire fill kit under there.

As for bass sound, it is unbelievable for such as small package. It will make the rear view mirror vibrate so much when cranked. It is not a shake the car beside you but you can feel it pretty good in the Spark. My wife said she could here me coming down the street. It is a perfect match for me.

As for price, I paid $270 at Best Buy, everything is included for hookup. No need to wire the remote turn on wire as the sub can turn on by the speaker wire input.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for everything you posted. $270 for my budget right now is a little high but when I am able to, Im sure I will upgrade to the sub. Hopefully the sub may drop a little in price eventually. Especially since all four kicker speakers only ran like 80 bucks for me.

Thanks again for all the info.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for everything you posted. $270 for my budget right now is a little high but when I am able to, Im sure I will upgrade to the sub. Hopefully the sub may drop a little in price eventually. Especially since all four kicker speakers only ran like 80 bucks for me.

Thanks again for all the info.

Yea, I paid about $90 for the Kicker KS's and got the sub with a small discount. It is normally $299. It was well worth the upgrade. The factory replacement was a big step and the sub just fills it all in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great job on the install, I love how you mounted it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Great job on the install, I love how you mounted it.

Thanks, the pictures don't do it justice, lol. The carpet was an exact match to the factory color. I originally were not going to hookup the bass control. Then I read that that is a remote gain control. So I took the control apart and found out how easy it could be mounted rather than the way in the directions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, I like the work you did on the sub mounting, looks really great!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, I consider myself an amateur audiophile. But putting in a subwoofer is something I've never done. I did already replace all four stock speakers with some fairly good pioneers that sound 10 times better than the puny stock speakers. So I have some really basic questions. Did you have to remove the head unit to install the sub? I really like the pioneers that I put in, but I'm missing that deep rich bass. This setup looks great and I'd like to know more about how to wire it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is real easy to hook up. I ended up buying the Metra speaker adapters so I did not have to cut any factory wires. No you do not need to remove the radio either.

There are 6 wires that you need to connect to the Spark. You have the power wire that needs to be run up to the battery. Then you have your ground that gets hooked up to the rear seat center bolt. Then the final 4 wires get hooked to you rear speakers. Two wires to the right speaker and the other two wires to the left speaker, that's it.

I ended up sinking it into the tire well to make it look factory and take up no extra room. I have so far tuned the sub correctly and it sounds excellent. By no means is it shaking the car beside you but it can really rock. It fills in the missing bass perfectly.

If you can connect wires with crimps and run the wires through the vehicle then you can do this install. You can install it in the back without sinking it in the well. It also has one plug that can be quickly disconnected if needed more space.

Dill and ozzyhere like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome, I love your setup and intend to try and mimick it. How difficult was it to run the power wire from the batter to the rear spare tire compartment? Where did you find the matching carpet at

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="joehornback" data-cid="3381" data-time="1362324805"><p>

Awesome, I love your setup and intend to try and mimick it. How difficult was it to run the power wire from the batter to the rear spare tire compartment? Where did you find the matching carpet at</p></blockquote>

If you can see the first pictures you can see the battery hookup then from there I removed the metal plate and gasket from where the clutch would go. I have an automatic so this was perfect. I drilled the metal without the gasket and put the correct grommet there. Then poked a hole in the rubber gasket with a paper clip. This allows it to be very snug. Then the rest of the power wire just pull up the plastics down the drivers side, just the two of them. The front kick plate and rear kick plate. I then used a long zip tie to fish the wire under the B pillar plastic so you don't have to remove. Then the rest is self explanatory.

As for the remote bass knob I did the same thing but down the passenger side. The carpet I got on eBay after ordering a few rolls in different shades. I can post a link later, it is almost dead on. For the top board I used the trunk factory carpet for a template to cut the wood. You just need to trim a little off up against the rear seats as the carpet is a little longer.

If you lived closer I would help with the install and carpet. Everything you need for the sub comes in the box all wiring and mounting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bluer how much did you spend in materials

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bluer how much did you spend in materials

Carpet was $20, but I tried others so its more for me. Lol. Then one 2x4 sheet of 1/2 inch MDF, $8.50. $3.50 for one piece of 1x4x8. Then pint of contact cement, chip brush, some screws, and staples in the staple gun. As for wire loom and crimps I had them. It was very easy to do and cheap. Total well under $100 and a afternoon of work.

Edited by bluer101

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you should sell them!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think you should sell them!

Shipping would be the problem. I went to the dealer on Friday and my sales guy saw it and he said it looks factory. Thats the whole purpose for designing it that way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is the carpet, it was $36 but have tons left over.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390535124367

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

get me the dimensions and weight and i can tell you how much it is to ship

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks so much!!! I'm going to start gathering the materials.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="joehornback" data-cid="3381" data-time="1362324805"><p>

Awesome, I love your setup and intend to try and mimick it. How difficult was it to run the power wire from the batter to the rear spare tire compartment? Where did you find the matching carpet at</p></blockquote>

If you can see the first pictures you can see the battery hookup then from there I removed the metal plate and gasket from where the clutch would go. I have an automatic so this was perfect. I drilled the metal without the gasket and put the correct grommet there. Then poked a hole in the rubber gasket with a paper clip. This allows it to be very snug. Then the rest of the power wire just pull up the plastics down the drivers side, just the two of them. The front kick plate and rear kick plate. I then used a long zip tie to fish the wire under the B pillar plastic so you don't have to remove. Then the rest is self explanatory.

As for the remote bass knob I did the same thing but down the passenger side. The carpet I got on eBay after ordering a few rolls in different shades. I can post a link later, it is almost dead on. For the top board I used the trunk factory carpet for a template to cut the wood. You just need to trim a little off up against the rear seats as the carpet is a little longer.

If you lived closer I would help with the install and carpet. Everything you need for the sub comes in the box all wiring and mounting.

Thanks for that offer! One last question and then i think I can do it. I have a standard, so I'll have to drill a hole through the firewall correct? And to pull up the plastic down the side, do they just pop out, is there a trick to getting it up without tearing it up? Ok, so that was two questions :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for that offer! One last question and then i think I can do it. I have a standard, so I'll have to drill a hole through the firewall correct? And to pull up the plastic down the side, do they just pop out, is there a trick to getting it up without tearing it up? Ok, so that was two questions :)

You will remove the firewall clutch plate and drill that. You also need to pickup a grommet set to put in that hole. Then run the wire through. If you have a manual Spark then you cannot use this plate.

As for pulling up the kick panel, the front has 2 plastic clips towards the front. Then there are three metal clips down the side. You just pull the plastic panel to remove it. The rear has one screw under the seat and a plastic clip. Then there are the same metal clips as front.

If you need photos I can remove mine in the next few days. It's really an easy car to take apart than most.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18.jpg

Wow. That is impressive! It looks so flush and gorgeously done! What's so cool is that this modification doesn't limit your cargo space (as long as you're fine with loading stuff on top of the sub). Maybe put a piece of fabric over top of the sub so you don't scratch it up?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Wow. That is impressive! It looks so flush and gorgeously done! What's so cool is that this modification doesn't limit your cargo space (as long as you're fine with loading stuff on top of the sub). Maybe put a piece of fabric over top of the sub so you don't scratch it up?
The sub inclosure is metal so nothing should bother it. I carry a towel to throw over the whole area just I case. If someone wanted to you can cover the area the whole time with the factory cover, it still fits. But I leave it off, I want to see it every time I open the hatch.

Pictures make it look like crap, better in person.

Edited by bluer101

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now