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About 1LoudLS

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    New Member

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  • Region
    U.S. Great Lakes
  • Location
    Ann Arbor
  • Current Vehicle
    2015 Focus ST

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  1. three thoughts on this. 1st: I hope your amp doesn't really need the current requirements that full 8 awg wire would provide... since that wire is CCA instead of real copper wire, it will have a higher resistance and larger voltage drop. everybody should really stay away from copper clad aluminium wire. 2nd: Was your wood speaker adapter not thick enough on its own? just trying to understand why you made your own adapter AND also used that thinner plastic adapter. if you do have a depth issue then its fine, but if its not needed, I would just remove it. 3rd: Not 100% sure of what the climate is like up there in Montreal, but I hope it stays desert dry there all year around. you should never make speaker adapters out of wood, especially MDF or particle board. wood will absorb moisture and start to fall apart after a while (MDF and particle board will degrade at an even faster rate). Most cars (smaller, cheaper cars are even more effected by this) do not seal very well between where the base of the glass and the top of the door meet and tons of water will slip right through every time it rains. this problem is actually one of the biggest reason for OEM speaker failures in GM cars/trucks aside from people just turning the radio up all the way. its way better to use ABS or PVC for this, they can also often be found at most home improvement stores.
  2. here is a 2nd example, while sad the pictures do not still show up, the instructions are still good.
  3. luckily, even while cars have improved a long way over the decades, adding and amp and sub to a factory radio has not changed one single bit (other than there being more choices for parts to use) in the last 30 years... step one: run a power wire from the battery. Step two: run a ground wire to the body. Step three: depending on your amp's inputs, either install a LOC (Line Output Converter) behind the radio or just run speaker wires tapped into the rear speaker's feed to the amps high level inputs. Step four: run speaker wire from the amp to the sub/box Step five, either turn on signal sense or run a turn on wire to a wire in the car that turns on with the key. OR step one: take the car somewhere and pay somebody to do the work for you. this has been done many many times and there are more than a few threads on here showing exactly how to do it and what is possible. just one example:
  4. if you want to get to the speaker wires to get high level inputs, the best place is right behind the radio where all of the speaker wires are in the same location(as many channels as you want, one place to take apart) the worse place would be to take off the door panels and get the wire in each door, mostly because getting wire OUT of the door is going to be a royal pain in the ass.
  5. the only problem is that by using your phone, you are losing the biggest benefits of sat radio, and that is being able to listen to it non stop coast to coast. with your phone, you are at the mercy of your phone companies service area. if you have Verizon, then you will be OK for most of the country, but still plenty of areas with poor/spotty or simply no service. also you will need to be careful on data usage if you are not on an unlimited plan.
  6. when we did Spacecowboy's car, we went through the firewall right where the clutch goes through. if you have a manual, you will probably need to drill your own hole and add a grommet/snap bushing.
  7. on option I always recommend is instead of making your own adapters like Michael did, you could buy a pair of speaker harnesses so that everything is just plug and play. you also wouldn't have to worry about getting the polarity of the speaker wrong or out of phase from the others. https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-9301-Connector-Mitsubishi-Vehicles/dp/B0002BEUZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490802796&sr=8-1&keywords=Metra+72-9301
  8. Ive sold and installed 30-40 of them since they have been out and have yet to have one that didn't work as designed. I cant see 4 bad units in a row getting through QC and getting shipped. should be a happier with a larger full sized sub and separate amp.
  9. Thats crazy you got two bad units in a row. glad its working good now.
  10. its actually extremely easy to design a great OEM infotainment system... you dont! you let the people who do it the best do it for you. at this point, its silly for any OEM car system not to support CarPlay or Android Auto. that is most drivers out there. pay them what ever licensing fee they ask then save the money from having to have your guys figure it out. the Mylink is so close to being real good, I will say that its a good bit better than anything Ford's Sync2 systems have. it would probably be enough to keep me from changing it out as it does have a good clean sound that can easily be worked with.
  11. as recommended above, please let me stress that you use a plastic panel tool, the dash plastic is a very soft compound and can be easily scratch or damaged if you use something metal like a flat screw driver. #ProTip
  12. the battery is definitely not a problem if the starter works and you don't have problems starting the engine and driving it every day. the 10-15 amps that these super efficient digital mini amps need to operate is a drop in the bucket as to what everything else in the car needs and uses all day. for instance the car is designed to run totally within manufacture specifications with something plugged into the power port/cig socket that pulls either 10-15 amps of power and thats even at night with the high beams on in the rain with the wipers going in the cold so the heater is on full blast with the seat warmers on. the charging system on this car has no problem supplying enough extra juice to run the Hideaway or any other low powered system like it if the power wire is ran and fine, with good proper connections, the next thing that is 100% as important as the main power feed would be the ground. not only do you need to have a good solid connector, but the contact point needs to be clean bare metal, so whether you use a new screw, or an existing bolt like a seat or seatbelt, it is extremely important to remove all of the paint on the body where the connector makes contact. it the sub sounds great/fine at lower volumes but then cuts out when the volume is at 10, it does sound like the amp shutting down or going into protect mode from a voltage drop somewhere. if both appear to be good, then a multimeter would be very helpful to track it down quickly.
  13. spacecowboy has been running a 500w+ RMS amp for about 3 weeks short of a year now, off of the stock alt and battery without a problem. a 400w amp at constant full blast would only pull about 30 amps... and most music has a pretty wide dynamic range, so you are extremely unlikely to be drawing that kind of power anywhere near constantly. as with any amp I also wouldn't recommend running it at full tilt constantly anyways. especially when just idling as most alts (even HO alts) don't make near full power at idle. I definitely would not recommend running a dedicated second battery, even at only 30ish amps of power, a battery doesn't maintain a constant voltage, it starts around 12.6v at full charge and then drops as the battery is depleted, without the alt constantly charging the battery it wont take too long before the battery drops below what most car electronics are designed for, a good amp will just shut down or go into protect mode,. a less than good amp may just burn itself out. also charging the battery every day just for maybe 30-60 mins of sound will get very old. you also don't want to add a second battery tied into the same system as it will just add one more item for the alt to have to keep power supplied to as batteries don't create power and just store it, the only thing that is going to create the power is the alt (well technically not create but convert. if your super worried about it, and you want a longer amount of reserve time (time you can listen to the radio with the engine off) then you can replace your existing battery with one better suited for such. as for specifically a deep cycle battery, unless you are wanting to listen to the stereo to the point of a dead battery all the time (and risking damage to other electronics that are running) without causing damage to the battery, a deep cycle may not be your best choice.