1LoudLS

three thoughts on this. 1st: I hope your amp doesn't really need the current requirements that full 8 awg wire would provide... since that wire is CCA instead of real copper wire, it will have a higher resistance and larger voltage drop. everybody should really stay away from copper clad aluminium wire. 2nd: Was your wood speaker adapter not thick enough on its own? just trying to understand why you made your own adapter AND also used that thinner plastic adapter. if you do have a depth issue then its fine, but if its not needed, I would just remove it.

here is a 2nd example, while sad the pictures do not still show up, the instructions are still good.

luckily, even while cars have improved a long way over the decades, adding and amp and sub to a factory radio has not changed one single bit (other than there being more choices for parts to use) in the last 30 years... step one: run a power wire from the battery. Step two: run a ground wire to the body. Step three: depending on your amp's inputs, either install a LOC (Line Output Converter) behind the radio or just run speaker wires tapped into the rear speaker's feed to the amps high level inputs. Step four: run speaker wire from the amp to the

if you want to get to the speaker wires to get high level inputs, the best place is right behind the radio where all of the speaker wires are in the same location(as many channels as you want, one place to take apart) the worse place would be to take off the door panels and get the wire in each door, mostly because getting wire OUT of the door is going to be a royal pain in the ass.

the only problem is that by using your phone, you are losing the biggest benefits of sat radio, and that is being able to listen to it non stop coast to coast. with your phone, you are at the mercy of your phone companies service area. if you have Verizon, then you will be OK for most of the country, but still plenty of areas with poor/spotty or simply no service. also you will need to be careful on data usage if you are not on an unlimited plan.

when we did Spacecowboy's car, we went through the firewall right where the clutch goes through. if you have a manual, you will probably need to drill your own hole and add a grommet/snap bushing.

on option I always recommend is instead of making your own adapters like Michael did, you could buy a pair of speaker harnesses so that everything is just plug and play. you also wouldn't have to worry about getting the polarity of the speaker wrong or out of phase from the others. https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-9301-Connector-Mitsubishi-Vehicles/dp/B0002BEUZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490802796&sr=8-1&keywords=Metra+72-9301

Ive sold and installed 30-40 of them since they have been out and have yet to have one that didn't work as designed. I cant see 4 bad units in a row getting through QC and getting shipped. should be a happier with a larger full sized sub and separate amp.

Thats crazy you got two bad units in a row. glad its working good now.

its actually extremely easy to design a great OEM infotainment system... you dont! you let the people who do it the best do it for you. at this point, its silly for any OEM car system not to support CarPlay or Android Auto. that is most drivers out there. pay them what ever licensing fee they ask then save the money from having to have your guys figure it out. the Mylink is so close to being real good, I will say that its a good bit better than anything Ford's Sync2 systems have. it would probably be enough to keep me from changing it out as it does have

as recommended above, please let me stress that you use a plastic panel tool, the dash plastic is a very soft compound and can be easily scratch or damaged if you use something metal like a flat screw driver. #ProTip

the battery is definitely not a problem if the starter works and you don't have problems starting the engine and driving it every day. the 10-15 amps that these super efficient digital mini amps need to operate is a drop in the bucket as to what everything else in the car needs and uses all day. for instance the car is designed to run totally within manufacture specifications with something plugged into the power port/cig socket that pulls either 10-15 amps of power and thats even at night with the high beams on in the rain with the wipers going in the cold so the heater is on full blast with

a battery is not necessary. I went in to more detail in the other post.

spacecowboy has been running a 500w+ RMS amp for about 3 weeks short of a year now, off of the stock alt and battery without a problem. a 400w amp at constant full blast would only pull about 30 amps... and most music has a pretty wide dynamic range, so you are extremely unlikely to be drawing that kind of power anywhere near constantly. as with any amp I also wouldn't recommend running it at full tilt constantly anyways. especially when just idling as most alts (even HO alts) don't make near full power at idle. I definitely would not recommend running a dedicated seco