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  1. Today
  2. For $20 you can access an electronic service manual for 3 days. You should be able to see the table of contents. Print off what you need and you should be good. Just one option to consider. https://m.acdelco.com/for-professionals/gm-service-information.html
  3. Yet another hiccup. Clocked the turbo only to see the drain fitting and turbo snail bolt don't agree. Off to find a different drain fitting...
  4. Hello, Can anyone advise me where to get a wiring diagram for a 2011 spark. My son wants to install a different radio. thanks Sid.
  5. Thanks for your reply. On my car the quirk happens at freeway speeds (50+ mph) and gets more pronounced as speed gets higher.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Man, wish I would have seen this earlier :/
  8. And they have been sold for only $350
  9. Sounds like a computer/software malfunction... With all the computers and sensors on the car, there are many strange issues. In the old days something like what happened to your 2017 Spark would never happen. I recall one incident when my 7 year old 1957 dodge would not start in the parking lot at work at quitting time. It was cranking alright, but engine would not start. At that time I did not know jack about cars. One of my colleagues opened the distributor cap, and saw that the points were almost shut close. He bent them slightly with pliers and the car started! Those days are long gone.
  10. Last week
  11. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F193166478973 I bought these coilovers for my 2017 at $650 on eBay thinking they would fit but they didn’t. The rears have anti seize on them but the front never came out the box for install so it’s all there and unused for only 450 and I am open to offers since I can’t make much use of them. Selling these to buy the more expensive BC racing Coilovers that are actually meant to fit my car.
  12. So, no oil leaks now, and no coolant leaks! I'm going to look at getting the turbo placement and possibly some supports made up. Still waiting for the extended oil drain line to arrive. I received the wideband kit and guage as well as some 2" mild steal mandrel bent stock to get the turbo welded in.
  13. Hey everyone! So, last night my 2017 spark wouldn't start. it was completely silent with no noise when trying to start it. Afterwards, the red battery light came on and code 95 which I believe means service airbags. So after towing it to the dealership, they said there is nothing wrong with the car and that I probably left the lights on. The thing is, if anyone else owns a 17 spark, the car almost always turns everything off by itself, it doesn't require any crazy maintenance. So, I was wondering if anyone had this problem or knew what to do? I'm pretty mad they said I left the lights on. I parked the car, went to work, drove it home, then boom it would't start up right after I turned it off. No noise, didn't work with a jumpstart either or a fuel delivery.
  14. I dropped my oil pan today to put the new drain fitting. I had to drill out a slightly larger hole for the fitting. The new drain is quality made and heavy duty. I did have to grind the nut quite a bit on the inside of the pan to clear the oil pump. If I were to do this again, I would have chose a different spot to drill the drain. This time I added a bit of Permatex gasket compound to the washers to make sure there were no leaks and really torqued the nut down.
  15. I have another tuning session tomorrow. I decided to break up this month's hour and I've only used about 20 minutes this month. Tomorrow I plan to focus on torque based tuning. The modifications made to my car has changed the fueling and torque. In order to determine how much I need to modify the torque tables I need to log how much torque the engine is actually making compared to what is being requested. I'm setting up a histogram that logs engine torque on a chart with the x axis being rpm and the y axis being cylinder airmass. Tomorrow I will log the engine torque and look at how far of the current tune tables are. I will start putting together some videos showing the process to help better explain this but these tables and the fueling tables are really key with these newer torque based ecus.
  16. Hello? Anyone home? Pretty old posts but here goes: Received a recall on the Trans. Control Module. Dealer unaware of recall. Has no answers to my questions. GM recall center cannot answer my questions. So I will ask you. How will TCM reprogramming affect my gas mileage? Shifting? Thanks in advance. Karl
  17. Thank you very much. Took all of the mystery out. Almost have to know in advance where the oil stick is in advance. And a very bright light.
  18. I do several trips a year from New Hampshire to Panama City, Florida and then down to Orlando and all the way back. Never had an issue and car is very good on gas. I do change out my 17" wheels for my stock 15" wheels though to save on gas. My 2017 has 63k mi.
  19. I decided to try one specifically stating 3 bar. I also got the wire harness to tap into the factory wires. I will not be removing the factory connector in case I need to go back to a stock Map sensor for vehicle inspection.
  20. Received the map sensor that said it would be good for turbo and supercharged engines.....Nope, returned. Tested the sensor and output voltage reading told me it was a 1 bar. Here is how to tell:
  21. “General Motors has reached a tentative agreement with the UAW. We encourage the UAW to move as quickly as possible through the ratification process, so we can resume operations and get back to producing vehicles for our customers. Our goal during these negotiations was to ensure the future of General Motors is one that works for our employees, dealers, suppliers and the communities where we operate. The agreement reflects our commitment to U.S. manufacturing through the creation of new jobs and increased investment.” View the full article
  22. You may want to check the engine section of the forum. I haven't changed the plugs yet.
  23. Good advice! In the old days before internet, and when I was a young man without much money, I bought only cheap used cars usually 7+ years old. My experience with those cars was constant minor problems. So I gave up buying used cars and since 1964 Corvair Monza I bought only new cars. That has worked out very well. I seldom need car repairs and get 7-10 years of trouble free service. The 1964 Corvair was a lemon but all cars since then have been great. Corvair had air cooled engine with a V-belt which twisted 90 degrees going from pulley to pulley. Very bad design! The belt broke on my new car and over-heated the engine without giving me any warning such as idiot light coming on. The engine was a disaster for the 3 years I kept the car. But I never had a transmission repair needed on any cars, and serious engine repair only once on my 1971 Chevy Nova at 75,000 miles when the engine began making a hammering loud noise. I was able to diagnose the problem and rejected the dealer mechanics recommendation to overhaul the engine. It was simply a bent rocker arm and 45 minutes repair time for the dealer mechanic at another dealer. I drove the Nova for another 75,000 miles without problems.
  24. I measure tire pressure when car is sitting in shade outside. So yes, in winters I have to add more air than in summers. Tire bursts are caused mostly due to under-inflation, not over-inflation. That is because under-inflation causes tire walls to flex more back and forth and that weakens the tire. Of course older tires will burst more often than newer because of fatigue and wear.
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