I bought a new 2019 Chevy Spark on Friday December 7th and I haven't seen it much since then. The radio audio died and I returned it to Dimmitt Chevy in Florida on the 8th. I went to pick up my new car with a new radio on the 14th and the radio audio died again while driving home. I returned to the dealer who said they would have it fixed today, the 15th. Nope! I had to call them and ask what's going on and they said it wont be ready until next week. (I smell a lemon...) Has anyone else heard of this problem?
When I needed a heated steering wheel on my riding golf cart, I connected directly to the battery terminals with wires running to the steering wheel cover which had heating elements. That power is always available. Electric Golf carts run on a bank of tandem batteries and are charged with a battery charger after the round of golf.
I have a 2017 Spark. I recently discovered that the electric power socket (AKA the cigarette lighter socket) is connected via the ignition switch. Thus no power is available when the car is not running. I have a need to have a continuous electric power source when the car is not running. This would be used to run small electronic devices. The current draw would be about 200 milliamps. I have been unable to find any wiring schematics.
Can anybody suggest an simple way to connect to the electrical system to accomplish this. I suspect that there is a unused terminal at one of its fuse boxes that could be used. I am open to any suggestions as too how to accomplish this. Tnx
I noticed driving style was a major factor. Is your dash reading also around 50mpg? Sorry, just read your comment again. Very impressive. My goal is $ per mile and power. I'm converting to e85 and throwing a turbo on. I am excited for the turbo and the CVT combo. I will not come close to the mpg you reached. What are your eco hacks? You could probably use hp tuners for more but it is spendy and 50 is pretty insane as is. You could find someone local with the set up. I'm MN based
One potential useful tip is thinking aerodynamics. Those fog light spots where there are just grey indents should be smoothed out. One day I covered them with painters tape for fun. Seemed to help a tad but I didn't do any serious testing. A more permanent option like bondo might work if the results are good
“I had very constructive meetings with members of Congress from Ohio and Maryland. I share their concerns about the impact the actions we announced last week will have on our employees, their families and the communities. These were very difficult decisions -- decisions I take very personally. I informed the members that many hourly employees at the impacted U.S. plants will have the opportunity to work at other U.S. GM plants and that we are committed to working with them to minimize the impact on the communities. I also informed them that all salaried GM workers impacted by these actions are being offered outplacement services to help them transition to new jobs.”
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Interesting. While the following is probably not the case with your Spark, it was with mine.
I bought a used 2016 Spark (21k mies) last Spring. It started rattling after a month. Rattled mostly at certain RPMs and it was consistent.
I initially thought it was a heat shield, then the right rear door. It was kind of hard to judge just where it was coming from.
After a few months of this, I finally booked an appointment to take it to the dealer for a broken driver's door lock and the 2 recalls. When I made the appointment, the mysterious 'rattle' was also on the list of things to fix.
The night before I was to take it in, I went over it all again to try and locate the rattle.
DAMN! It was the stupid metal frame surrounding the license plate! I removed the frame and the rattle stopped.
Note: I was also able to induce the rattle again, without the frame, if the plate was bent just right (or 'wrong' I guess).
Don't we wish every problem in life could be fixed that easily?