Ray Dockrey

The filter should be replaced as part of routine scheduled maintenance. See Maintenance Schedule 0 279. To find out what type of filter to use, see Maintenance Replacement Parts 0 288. 1. Open the glove box completely and loosen the bolts on the outboard side. 2. Push in both sides of the glove box and pull to remove. 3. Open the filter cover by releasing the tabs on both sides and pulling up the cover. 4. Replace the air filter. 5. Close the air filter cover and tabs. 6. Reinstall the glove box Link to the manual http://www.eskridgechevrolet.com/dealer/wp-content/uploa

Its the steel belt slipping. Make sure the recall was done on it to fix it but even after the fix it will still do it on occasion.

I am sure its a programming issue but Chevy considers it normal and they aren't going to fix it. Once you get used to it its really not that big of a deal. It just requires, at times, more throttle to get the RPM's up to get it moving faster. They are quirky but not a death trap. I don't pay much attention to it anymore.

Unless its making a horrible noise and severe vibration when accelerating or any other time its not slipping. The second program they issued did cause a slip and that was why they issued the recall and did a third reprogram. It will still slip if you get it bound up a certain way but it doesn't happen very often.

I got mine at Autozone. The local store didn't have them but the main store\hub did and I just went there and picked it up.

Does it happen more often when the AC is on? Mine does this when the AC is on. Its not slipping. Its just the nature of the CVT when the engine has a load on it from the AC.

Is this a manual trans or the CVT? I have the CVT and other then the weird shifting behavior i have had zero issues.

Open the glovebox, squeeze the sides so it falls down out of the way. The access panel is right behind it. Remove it and slide the filter out. To remove the access panel I believe there are tabs that you squeeze and it comes out. Its been a while since I have changed mine out. Here you go, I found a video showing how.

Did they tell you what the code number was? It should be something like P0XXXX where the x's represent numbers.

The 2013 had a different transmission. The 2013 had a conventional 4 speed auto then in 2014 they switched to the CVT.

When you Google that part number it comes up under one listing as for a 2012 and other listings for 2013-2015 but they are Chinese knock offs. If you search Ebay for 2014 Spark coolant tank they all come up with your original part number and most are from a dealer or a GM supplier.

The problem is throwing parts at an issue isn't cheap either. The Spark doesn't use a conventional thermostat so its more costly then the old style $5 ones. It could be a thermostat, clogged radiator, fan issue, clogged hose somewhere, or various other things. You said the check engine light came on. What code is it showing? Autozone will read the codes for you for free so that would be the place to start.

If I remember right some of the 13's had issues with the re-circulation flap opening and closing repeatedly making a knocking sound. That flap sits right behind the glovebox. As far as the coolant loss I agree with Tozzi that its probably the coolant tank.

Blower speed has nothing to do with this. If the blower is on and you have the AC button pushed then the AC is fully working. Same with the defroster. It does cycle on and off but its not variable. The AC compressor is either on or off. If you have the fan turned down low thinking you arent taxing the system then you are just sweating for nothing. Plus this is hard on the blower motor resistor as it builds much more heat on the lower speeds. My bet is that the AC is causing your issues. Mine does something similar. You just have to learn to deal with it.

How are you figuring your mileage? Are you going by what the computer says or are you figuring it yourself.

The Spark doesn't use a conventional thermostat. Its electronic so be prepared that they aren't cheap like a normal thermostat. Plus like Mr. tozzi said it could be in the harness somewhere or a failure elsewhere.

The Spark uses 4" speakers in the front and 4x6" in the back. Those 4" ones you linked to may work even though Amazon says they won't when i look at your link. The covers just pop off. Use a plastic pry tool and get under the edge of it and pry them off. I replaced all four of mine with Pioneers. Unfortunately you won't see much increase in bass. The speakers are just too little to produce any bass. You will need a subwoofer for that. I installed one in mine and it makes a huge difference.

No, I mean the actual ignition switch. If the ignition switch fails in the run position it won't provide electrical to certain systems like the ecu or the fuel pump. I don't know about the Spark but on a couple of other cars I have had what you are describing is caused by a bad ignition switch.

Has the ignition switch been checked?

You replied to a two year old thread exactly to the day lol.

I bought mine at Autozone for $119. Its the only one they list for it. The battery is stamped right on it made in South Korea. So either battery prices are much higher where you live or they are quoting you the wrong battery. http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/duralast-battery/755655_537371_0

It could have been the battery. Modern cars are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations and a battery going bad can really cause havoc with the electrical system.

The software reprogram is there. Its the trans pulley/belt damage listing. The second one down. That was a reprogram to stop the pulley and belt from being damaged due to slippage. There have been three software packages for the trans. There was the original, then the second one helped with the not going into first and improved the shifting a lot but introduced a horrible vibration at times during takeoff. The vibration was the belt slipping on the pulley. So then they released the third software package that fixed the slippage problem.

I just saw this and wanted to comment. You bought a car with a salvage title. It doesn't matter what kind of damage you deem it to have. It has a salvage title. That's on you. How is GM to know what all was wrong with it? Are they just supposed to take your word on it? That is part of the risk of buying something like that. This is on you. Not them. And like Gearhead said above. You should have checked to see what recall were needed when you bought it and had them done right away.

Some have taken the dimensions and went to Walmart and found something of similiar size. I replaced mine about three months ago and got it at Autozone. My local store didn't have them in stock but the main hub, which was about 15 miles from me did.