Retired old Gearhead

Nice job/buy on the hubcaps..big improvement over stock and a lot less $$ than new wheels!

I really miss a temperature gauge on this car, that gauge comes in handy as cars start to get some years on them.

If I remember right some of the 13's had issues with the re-circulation flap opening and closing repeatedly making a knocking sound. That flap sits right behind the glovebox.
 
As far as the coolant loss I agree with Tozzi that its probably the coolant tank. 

Well. If your coolant is low you have a leak somewhere, probably the coolant tank leaking which is an easy fix, just need a new coolant tank. Now if you keep getting low on coolant you need to address it yourself or have someone fix it before you overheat the engine and cause bigger issues. 

The CVT in these cars is a regular 2 speed auto coupled to a CVT. How do you know it is not going into low? 
 
Here are a few quirks I have with mine. We have put approximately 9,000 miles on it and are fairly satisfied with the performance of the CVT overall. It takes some getting used to.
 
1.) It occasionally hesitates from a stop. This is not a throttle response issue (or doesn't seem to be, even though it is fly by wire). This typically happens after coming from a stop from cruising at a very high gear ratio and then "punching" it. I hypothesize that the 2spd is in low gear, but the CVT is stuck in a high(er) gear ratio. It takes a few feet of roll out to allow the CVT belt to slip down to a low gear ratio. If I always allow a few feet of roll out at idle before hitting the gas this does not happen (from my recollection). I learned this the hard way when we took the spark to the autocross. It easily cost me a few tenths lugging off the line. 
 
2.) When accelerating hard and then suddenly lifting the car experiences a momentum bump as it upshifts the CVT. After lifting the throttle it will accelerate FASTER than it does under WOT for a few mph. I have to be cognizant of this when accelerating quickly to the speed limit. I always lift 4-5mph before the speed limit.
 
3.) It does not "crawl" well at all. We have a steep driveway. Steep enough that it cannot idle up. Upon ingress with low momentum (necessary to prevent scraping of the front air dam) it will stall and more throttle is necessary. If too much throttle is given it will often "jump", accelerating very quickly. 
 
4.) The simulated shifts annoy me, as they are not necessary. I understand this is not a race car, but it is a small hatch so I enjoy driving it spiritedly (my other car is a Miata). It will also see several autocross events in its lifetime. Because the motor is low torque I would prefer the transmission take simple priority in its behavior: maximum acceleration at WOT, maximum MPG at constant speed, constant gear ratio at partial throttle. The simulated gear shifts do fool the average consumer. Among friends and family who do not know it has a CVT and are used to driving standard automatics; none have felt the transmission is different in any way. 
 
These are small fish compared to my real world numbers of 35mpg average, 45+ mpg highway (and both my wife and I have lead feet). It also out-accelerates the manual version and is plenty quick to 35-45mph (it is, after all, a city car). It also handles high speed cruising surprisingly well (though it takes some time to get there, that's the engine's fault). 
 
If your issues are outside of these common quirks I recommend you take it into the dealership for a service department test drive. While you are there ask to test drive a new spark for comparison. My 2016 has already been back for a new oil pan gasket and a noisy bushing. I almost feel bad for the dealership given I paid less than $10,000 for the car and 3rd party financed. That being said, I bought a new car with a warranty so I don't have to think about these things (I have two other vehicles with 100K+ and 200K+ to fill my automotive maintenance itch). 

Engine off and in neutral or engine on and in neutral.
 

Same car. Dont waste your money with an intake, you will not get any power out of it and the car works better on the stock intake.

Seems like they are taking care of you, they have your car in the shop and gave you a car to drive. Let them fix it.

From what I gather, 2013 issues were mainly about oil consumption, and not about the transmission. Probably from people who did not bother to do the recalls. If there was a choice, I would have preferred the geared tranny but in 2017 that is not an available option. I am just too old to put up with a manual tranny. So far, I have no problem with the CVT in my 2017. Actually I like how it performs. I hope it will last 7 years, 70k miles, which is my average trade-in time. I am more worried about me lasting 7 years, since my warranty expired long time ago

Good morning Gearhead! Basically I set the MP3 player to MSC mode through it's settings.
Then copied MP3 music files from my computer to the Sansa Fuze MP3 player. Plugged it
into the car's USB socket, and the system recognized the USB source right away.
Many thanks for taking trouble to post!

Welcome! We'll obviously want pics as soon as allowable.
 
Gearhead's right on about the early oil change, too. Always a good idea on a brand new car after the break-in period.
 
And yes, little engines will work better for longer if you let them rev. Having a stick shift will help that quite a bit - should be fun. These are nimble, responsive little cars for the price you pay.
 
Again, welcome!
 
Duncan

Gearhead is right on as usual! If driven hard, engine is much less likely to build carbon deposits on valves and pistons.   With carbon deposits, the valves do not close completely, causing hot gases to escape prematurely past the valves, which further deteriorates the valves. We got 16 of those valves in the 1.4 ecotec! Then you get loss of compression, rough idle, misfire, etc.

Welcome to the forum Andrew!..Wise choice on the manual with the very nice 1LT wheels. Drive it for 500mi..then get an oil change to Synthetic and that will get rid of all the factory/break-in metal shavings and synthetic is best for these little engines..better gas mileage and longer engine life..I know the excitement of a new car..drive it fast and hard after the first 10mi..good for beak-in and don't do any mods until you drive enough miles to get bored..any mods are really not needed with all that you have.

My 2013 LT1 hit the governor @ 114m114mph. That was going downhill, but you could feel the governor kick in.
 

Thanks for all the input!!! I really appreciate it. So far everything has been good, I haven't had any lockouts or anti theft issues. Car is running like a dream. I didn't replace the keys or the battery though I just unplugged it for a couple of hours and triple checked it was put back right. I'll have to wait and see if it acts up again as the months go by. I'll keep you posted if she acts up again. So far it doesn't look like there is anything loose and I'll finally be taking the battery to Autozone this weekend to make sure the voltages are all good. As for the mylink, I don't think my car has that? I just have your normal base key no automatic locks. Here is a picture of my key. Only one I have we bought it from a private party. If there is a way to do the mylink with this key please let me know!!! Thanks again! 

Some GM cars in the past had this issue of the key not being recognized by the ignition lock, and then the car would crank normal, but fuel was cut off, with the result car would not start. I guess the car's electronics made the decision a car thief was trying to start the car. Letting the car rest for a couple of hours with the key away from the car and then use the same key to start would usually do the trick 

Format the USB drive to 16 fat if it is formatted to Apple extended or some other format this is what to do..then as Tozzi said..just put the MP3's on it..works just fine and I use several smaller capacity USB drives that have different types of music as well as a bigger capacity stick with a variety of maps re-scaled to fit the screen. 3rd party player like yours are mostly not recognized by the MyLink the way Apple players and Phones are.

Thanks for the info. If it wasn't for you, I might have convinced my wife that I couldn't do it.  Instead, she insisted that I remove the antenna so she could replace it with a red plastic shark fin. Great. Now instead of a happy husband with music on FM and sports on AM, she is a happy wife with a fake fin stuck to the top of the car. Awesome. :-/
 

If you remove the map light/on star roof console it's accessible from there. I believe there is a antenna plug and a nut that holds the antenna on.
Just first pry the light lens out and I think there is 2 Phillips screws under that to remove the console.

That may be it but I live in Florida too and I just got my battery year and a half ago from the dealership. It had originally been drained from a weird glitch in the computer of the car. My Whole console stayed lit when I would turn off the car. I was still on the warranty when it happened so I took it to have a diagnostic test run because my car was acting up and I was afraid the battery was going to be drained. They took my car in for two hours and gave it back after telling me nothings wrong with it. The next day it wouldn't turn on. Then they told me that my car needed to have an update for the computer  and that I was gonna be notified in the mail but I would need to pay for the battery because it's not under the warranty. So I raised hell in that dealership. At first I thought he was trying to take advantage that I'm young girl and assumed I didn't know anything and wouldn't demand for them to pay for it. I literally started yelling at him in the middle of the lobby because I wanted everyone to see how much of an asshole he was being. Then when I told him I was going to make a formal complaint after writing 0000 for the survey they try to stick down your throat. I then find out he just didn't like me because I give honest reviews and they don't make money off of me since I'm not the owner. He really messed up when he snapped at me that he didnt give a shit because I always put 0000 and if I don't like it, I can leave....  He did in a room with about 15 other people. Mostly men. Some older man interrupted us and gave me the money and told the manager that he should watch the way he speaks to people. He told me that if anyone would you say to his daughter half the things this manager said to me or try to take  advantage of her he would hope someone would help. He didn't take no for an answer and walked with me to the cashier after telling the manager that he will be speaking to his regional director or region director, I don't remember the name. Before I can give the lady my name her phone rang and after she told me my bill had been compensated by Chevrolet and handed me my keys without a receipt. Of course I immediately returned the money. Come to find out from my mechanic, they gave me a used one that day. 

Bad battery or corroded connection...or bad alternator or connection...theses things show up in a Chicago winter...move down here to Miami and you're car will last as long as you want...just learn to drive fast.

Here I am not sure about laws but due to road conditions, its becomes a necessity.
 

Exactly, the more experienced mechanics have the good mentality of finding the source of the issue, unlike most dealership techs that are not given the time to find issues and are not allowed to fix anything unless the computer gives them a code, and then go throwing parts at it until the problem seems to be gone without knowing what caused it to begin with.

I kid you not I went through the same thing 48 hours ago. When my car didn't start on Friday afternoon when I went to leave work. My boss had to give me a jump. 
 
I have a 2013 spark too!
 
 Whatever you do, DO NOT go to the dealership, they charge like $160 for a diagnostic test. Yeah right,  I dropped mine off at our family mechanic's shop at 4:45pm  so I had to leave it overnight. Saturday morning they ran a diagnostic test and charged my battery to test it. 
 
He called me later in the morning so I can go pick up my car before 1pm. He said I need a new battery that nothing else is wrong and he'll explain everything when I get there. 
 
 So he gave me a 10% off a $45 charge for the diagnostic test. I paid $37 with tax.  As we were walking to my car I started explaining to him ALL the other things that were happening besides the car not starting and the battery draining. He explained to me that the battery for the spark only lasts about three years, it's tiny too.  I asked him how  I was going to fix it if he's telling me to take the car.  Then he explained to me that when the battery is low the computer tries to preserve the remaining battery life so the computer to the radio and dash shutdown when the car is turned off and reset to the factory setting, when you turn it on. I know that freaked me out too. Lol. You may even hear a delay when you go to turn the key in the starter. Oh and my radio would randomly turn off. The oddest part was that the radio didn't say the degrees outside. I thought there was a ghost in my car or it was possessed. 
 
 He didn't have my battery in stock so he told me  to go to advance auto parts and buy it for $155 with three years of warranty  and they install it for free, rather than being carless for three days to be charged the same. 
 
Just keep in mind it's a small battery for a small car and the life is generally three-four years. I still recommend the diagnostic test to be on the safe side about any other kinks. Mine returned clean and I refused to accept that a low battery would make all the glitches happen. Until,.. I had my new and improved battery. Everything is back to norm. 
 
 Hope this helps, and good luck!

Take back to the tire shop and have them balance the tires again, you may have lost one of the weights, or the tire was not balanced right to begin with, make sure your wheels are clean before you take it in. 
 
@bobby I drove mine way past 100mph several times and it rides very well, the little thing seems to be very well planted to the ground driving at that speed.