shawnb4595 1 Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Hello. After installing my amp and getting the "add a fuse" little harness I tried to connect amp remote wire to several fuses inside the car. I tried the accessory fuse, instrument panel fuse, and others that should stop power when I turn off the car and when I turn off the key my amp light stays on. I have everything hooked up right as I have done this many many times over 30 years but this remote wire has me baffled as to where to tap it into in the interior fuse box. I want to use the add a fuse and not splice into a wire if possable. Sigh... Link to post Share on other sites
shawnb4595 1 Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 I should add that I meant to say add a circuit not add a fuse. And I tried the radio fuse as well. I have the infotainment radio so maybe the fuses stay powered up for ten minutes or something. Link to post Share on other sites
manualsparkls 6 Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 I have my remote on wire piggy backed off of the center console "cigarette lighter". It was easy to get to the back of it and is turned on and off by the key immediately. Link to post Share on other sites
shawnb4595 1 Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 I have my remote on wire piggy backed off of the center console "cigarette lighter". It was easy to get to the back of it and is turned on and off by the key immediately. I will go your route I guess even though I tried the fuse marked "lig" which is for the same thing. I just thought I would have to take off the center counsel to get easy access to that wire. I will have to double check though because I think I was using that or the USB to charge my phone when the car was off. Thanks for replying. Link to post Share on other sites
icepick 9 Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 One thing to keep in mind is that the spark keeps supplying power till you open the drivers door, after turning off the key. Most vehicles that do this do not have an 12v switched source at the radio either. So installing an after market system would require you to go to the fuse panel to find a 12v switched source. Link to post Share on other sites
WaltK 305 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 I have my remote on wire piggy backed off of the center console "cigarette lighter". It was easy to get to the back of it and is turned on and off by the key immediately. I am considering a few changes, and the "lighter" for me, is a great source. You say it is easy to get to,and I am trying to limit my contortionist moves, as I tore my rotator cuff, and my mobility, is a bit limited. A couple of tips, would be greatly appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites
manualsparkls 6 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 I am considering a few changes, and the "lighter" for me, is a great source. You say it is easy to get to,and I am trying to limit my contortionist moves, as I tore my rotator cuff, and my mobility, is a bit limited. A couple of tips, would be greatly appreciated. I'll follow up as soon as I get a minute to take a picture and write out a guide. Link to post Share on other sites
manualsparkls 6 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 This is the back of the 12v outlet (red). The connector comes out very easy by depressing the clip that slips into the far left hole. This is what I used to tap into the wire. It's called a tap splice connector. The 12v is the purple wire. The wire is hot when the key is on and will stay hot until the key is removed and one of the front doors is opened. From there I go under the change tray/drink holders and drivers floor mat. Link to post Share on other sites
manualsparkls 6 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Then I go under the front seat. You'll notice 12v for my amp is also present. Now under the rear floor mat (this is all drivers side) and under some plastic trim. The wires continue under the seat to the trunk. Where it all gets hooked into the amp. Nice and tidy :-D. Spark2013LT19464 1 Link to post Share on other sites
manualsparkls 6 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 (edited) Oops. Edited April 2, 2014 by manualsparkls Link to post Share on other sites
WaltK 305 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 (edited) So to access the acc. port wire, just reach behind, and unclip.Great walkthrough, thanks a lot..... Edited April 2, 2014 by WaltK Link to post Share on other sites
manualsparkls 6 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 So to access the acc. port wire, just reach behind, and unclip.Great walkthrough, thanks a lot..... No problem. Link to post Share on other sites
bensemailis 10 Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 If you reach up under the accessory port panel the whole thing pops off really easily. I routed mine under the dash and then u der the door trim so you can't see it. Works great. Link to post Share on other sites
WaltK 305 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) If you reach up under the accessory port panel the whole thing pops off really easily. I routed mine under the dash and then u der the door trim so you can't see it. Works great. There has to be some kind of trick to get at that wire, I can't even get my fingertips behind that panel. What did you release, to pop the panel off? I'm amazed at the pictures posted by manualsparkls, how he got a camera in there. What am I missing? Slide my fingers between the bottom of the panel, and top of the console, and do what? Short of a sharp blow with a hammer, I'm stumped. As an afterthought, my seat heater switches are also mounted on that panel, possibly, the're blocking access, in any case, are their any clips, etc. that has to be released? Thanks...... Edited April 8, 2014 by WaltK Link to post Share on other sites
Vicvector 2 Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 shawn, look on the fuseblock closely. I found a .250" male tab in there that turned out to be a switched circuit. (check whatever you find with a voltmeter just to be sure) I just crimped a female .250" on my sub remote wire and pushed it onto the tab. Time required ? Less than 5 min. Link to post Share on other sites
Schaltz 27 Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Running wires under floormats? Wow....... Link to post Share on other sites
bluer101 241 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Running wires under floormats? Wow....... Yep, that's a big no no. Back in the 80's when I was younger I ran a power wire in our jeep under the mat. After getting in and out if the jeep for a while the power wire ended up getting pinched into a bolt on the floor. Because I also put the fuse by the amp it created a big problem. The fuse blew at the amp but from the bolt all the way to the battery burned like a lit firework fuse. It was glowing and burned all the way to the battery. Things I did not know better when I was younger. Take your time and run the cables right. I also see people run wires out the drivers door jamb and under the fender to the battery, crazy! Link to post Share on other sites
1LoudLS 11 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Running wires under floormats? Wow....... Yep, that's a big no no. Back in the 80's when I was younger I ran a power wire in our jeep under the mat. After getting in and out if the jeep for a while the power wire ended up getting pinched into a bolt on the floor. Because I also put the fuse by the amp it created a big problem. The fuse blew at the amp but from the bolt all the way to the battery burned like a lit firework fuse. It was glowing and burned all the way to the battery. Things I did not know better when I was younger. Take your time and run the cables right. I also see people run wires out the drivers door jamb and under the fender to the battery, crazy! not to mention, it literally takes all of 10 more minutes to tuck the wires under the side trim panels, or 30 mins tops just to unclip the side panels and tuck them under the carpet next to the OEM wire harness where its hidden and safe. and yes the "through the door jam and fender" power runs are crazy dumb and dangerous... we had two different cars come through the shop where the wire had been pinched every time the door was closed, sooner or later it wore right through the wire's insulation and of course, neither car had a fuse in the proper spot and had burned up the wires almost burning the entire car to the ground... please anybody that reads this thread DO NOT RUN WIRES LIKE THAT. take the time and do it right, its not hard work to learn how to do, and anyone car see the proper way to do it spending less than an hour at YouTube University. #CarBQ Link to post Share on other sites
shawnb4595 1 Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 shawn, look on the fuseblock closely. I found a .250" male tab in there that turned out to be a switched circuit. (check whatever you find with a voltmeter just to be sure) I just crimped a female .250" on my sub remote wire and pushed it onto the tab. Time required ? Less than 5 min. Yes! That is what worked for me too, thanks Link to post Share on other sites
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