Is this price OK?

[sdpapet 0]

Hi, I plan to buy a new 2014 Spark LS automatic 1.2l, 4cyl. I am living in Albuquerque, NM. The dealer give me the price $13,400 (without tax). I don't know much about car and price. I have several questions.

1>Is this price reasonable? Too high?

2>When I talk to the dealer, he can easily tell that I know nothing about car or price. It's so hard to ask him to give me discount? Any idea how to let him lower the price?

3>I am going to to move soon. I don't have a lot stuffs. I was wondering if Spark can hook up a smallest U-haul trailer?

Thanks,

[Schaltz 27]

Sounds really cheap compared to danish prices - my danish 1.0 Spark LS - which can be compared to the US-topspec, was almost $24.500 in 2012. Hurray for the danish taxes!

[WaltK 305]

That's a decent price, a base Spark manual is going for roughly 12+K here in NJ, add about another 12-1400 for the CVT auto trans, and you're right in the ballpark. There is really not much negotiating price on these cars, most people pay the sticker price, you can haggle some, on the value of your trade-in, if you have one. You can also try to get the dealer to throw in a couple of oil changes, or a set of floor mats. Some will, not all.

As far as the small trailer, I remember a few guys talking about it, I believe it can be done, but I will leave that for someone who is more knowledgeable, to give you an educated answer.

Good luck!

[Greg_E 211]

If the dealer sees a hitch on the back of the Spark, they will void the warranty. That said there are hitches for these cars and I think they run around $150 plus install.

Your best way to handle the move and not risk your warranty is to rent a truck for your things and a tow dolly to haul your car behind the rental truck. Uhaul should have the tow dolly and trucks with hitches.

[sdpapet 0]

That's a decent price, a base Spark manual is going for roughly 12+K here in NJ, add about another 12-1400 for the CVT auto trans, and you're right in the ballpark. There is really not much negotiating price on these cars, most people pay the sticker price, you can haggle some, on the value of your trade-in, if you have one. You can also try to get the dealer to throw in a couple of oil changes, or a set of floor mats. Some will, not all.

As far as the small trailer, I remember a few guys talking about it, I believe it can be done, but I will leave that for someone who is more knowledgeable, to give you an educated answer.

Good luck!

Hi WaltK,

Thanks. "a couple of oil changes" -- I don't quite undertand this. Do you mean I ask the dealer to give me several free oil lubrication service?(Does this service normally incldue in the three years service) Or, free gas from gas station?

I have been to NJ. I know everything (e.g., house, gorceries) in NJ is more expensive than NM. I was wondering if the car price should be same? Does the price of same car vary a lot among different states?

I am sorry about these "beginner" questions. This would be my first car and I really don't know anything about car. Sometimes, it takes me for a long time to figure out some terminologies in car forum.

~Thanks

[WaltK 305]

Although NJ is an expensive state to live in, highest insurance rates, highest property taxes, we have the lowest gas prices, due to the lowest gas tax in the nation, so we have a few redeeming factors. In any case, after googling a few NM Chevy dealers, it seems the price is constant across the whole lower 48, so your price still appears decent.

You can sometimes talk a dealer into a few oil changes, as a perk, the three year bumper to bumper warranty does not include routine maintenance, such as oil changes, tire rotations, etc., although you will receive coupons in the mail from your dealership offering discounts on such services.

We have also had three open recalls on this car, meaning two upgrades were done to improve the air conditioners, and one emissions recall, to replace a defective pcv valve, that over time could create engine problems. All Sparks are not affected, but you should question the dealership if your potential purchase has had or needed these upgrades, if so, you would want them done before you take possession, they would be done at no cost to you. It is a very simple thing for the dealership to check, it could be done in minutes. You should also try to research the dealership themselves, one of the most critical steps in buying a new car, is to have a good relationship with a good dealer. It could make or break your new car experience.

[Gossamer 50]

It all depends on the dealership.

The dealer I bought my car from gave me free oil changes for as long as I own the car and a free extended warranty on the engine also for as long as I own it.

[sdpapet 0]

Hi guys,

Thanks. I'd like ask some questions about insurance.

1> Which insurance company you guys recommend. Decent price and good service. My friends all recommend Geico. Is liberty mutual better?

2> Before I buy the car, I suppose to contact the insuarce company and buy insurance, in order to insure the way from dealer to my house. What information I should get from the dealer (The information I should provide to my insurance company). Just the model of this car? Do I need the VIN?

3>My dealer is close to where I live, so I won't ask them to deliver. I want to know some details about the day when I pick up the car. The dealer has a large parking place and all his cars are parked side by side closely. You know, I am a new driver. I don't have the skill to drive my out of car from such small space. Will dealers help me? Some of my friends told me that they don't because it's your car once you pay for it. They worry that you complain (e.g.,Complain dealer breaks my car). I don't have the skills and I might hit their other cars.

4> If they currently don't have the color that I want, they want me to pay for it and pick it up later. I don't mind paying it in advance. However, I want to know what kind of paper work I should do as a proof that I have paid the car.

Thanks.

[WaltK 305]

1>The brand of insurance you carry is a matter of personal preference. I carry Geico, my girlfriend carries Liberty Mutual. I think Geico's rates are a little better.

2> In NJ, when applying for insurance, you supply the year, make, model, vin #, driver license #, they will ask you any personal information they need.

3>As a rule, they will have the car pulled out, and parked away from the others, if not, then just ask them to move it for you.

4> I would not pay in advance, I would leave a deposit, and get a detailed receipt, stating what it is you are to receive when you pay in full. Be sure the receipt shows the amount you paid, the remaining balance you have to pay, exactly what you are getting, color, etc. Also have a cutoff date, stating that if you don't have what you were promised by a certain time, on a certain date, then the deal is off. Have the sales manager sign it, along with your signature, and you should be good to go. When you get the car of your choice, then you pay the balance.

[austex04 48]

Welcome! As far as the price is concerned, your price is about average for the auto LS, although I've seen better, around 12999 for a auto LS around here in the NW. The Spark can't pull anything larger than a motorcycle trailer (under 500lbs), so you'll need to look at other options. I did a U-box from Uhaul for my cross country move, there's also Door to Door moving pods as well. I did the math, and it was cheaper to do U-box than to rent a truck and car dollies, becouse of the cost to fuel a truck. I could not have a moving box brought to me becouse of being in a apt, but U-boxes can stay at UHaul or can be trailered and towed by their pickup trucks. As far as auto insurance, these cars are cheap to insure. I had Geico once, they snookered me in at a low rate, then started raising my premiums even though I never made any claims. So I switched to State Farm, saving myself over 200 every 6 months. Everybodys different, so I would compare State Farm, Allstate, and a few others. Progressive will do that for you (they're more expensive for me than State Farm).

[sdpapet 0]

Hi guys,

Thanks. BTW, when you drive it, do you feel roomy or crowded? How does it compare to Honda fit. They looked simliar size outside.

You know it doesn't have a trunk. I watched a 2013 Spark video.(

)

It shows that you can put down the chair back and use the room as a trunk for groceries. Does every Spark have this function? Or you need to DIY the car.

[WaltK 305]

The car has plenty of room considering its size, very comfortable to drive. I strongly suggest you go take one for a ride, before you get too serious about buying one.

The Spark is a hatchback, meaning it doesn't have a trunk, but it does have a small storage area,and yes the rear seats do fold down. I've never had any interest in a Honda Fit, so I couldn't give you a fair comparison, maybe someone else here can.

[jibb3r 29]

How does it compare to Honda fit. They looked simliar size outside.

Funny you say that. I took this photo earlier today, before I even saw this post of the Honda Fit comparison. The 2013 Spark is mine, the 2007 Fit is my mothers. She drove from Maine, I drove from Ohio; We met in Florida.

They really aren't comparable, in my eyes. I'm no expert, but I've seen and driven both of them in the past week. Of course the Fit is bigger, more power, lower MPG, and higher priced. There's 5 seats, instead of four. The "trunk" is twice the size of that in the Spark. The Fit also comes with a spare donut tire.

Doing it again, I would still go with the Spark over the Fit. Unless they were comparable in price, with the same options; but they're not.

[Gossamer 50]

The Spark is very deceptive when it comes to interior space.

While it can feel a little crowded if you have 2 large people in the front seats, I think the bigger problem is that the seats are narrow and not very comfortable for those of us that are .... um a little larger!

As far as the trunk space goes, I gave the guys at Harbor Freight a story they will be telling for a long time.

I bought a full size stand up air compressor, and a work bench, and when the guy brought them out on the hand truck, he took one look at my Spark, laughed and said: "there's no way your fitting these in that car!"

With the rear seats down, and the passenger seat moved forward, I was able to get both the compressor and the work bench in their boxes in the back of my Spark - and I was able to close the hatch!

[Skids 108]

hey sdpapet.. ok first.. i used to sell cars..

almost a grand under msrp for a car that doesnt cost much to begin with is a good deal. the mark up on these is very little, meaning the dealership doesnt make much off selling them. you may be able to get them to go to an actual $1000 less but thats about it. unless youre paying cash for the whole thing theres not much haggle room here.

things to be weary of and be careful when purchasing, the length and apr of the loan, and your payments. go over the contract, take a calculator, add things up before signing, just because it says $1000 less than msrp for total price, make sure theyre not screwing you with some other money somewhere like gap insurance or some extended warranty (that being said extended warrantys are great to get, just make sure its a gmpp warranty and not some other third party youve never heard of) dont be afraid to get up and walk out if youre feeling things are shady if you havent signed anything you dont owe the $h!t ..

dealerships negotiate monthly payments, not total price. for example on a spark say its msrp is $15k. youre going to make 6 years of payments (72 months) with nothing down and 0% apr(this is an example not including tax and all that other stuff) your payments should be $208.33/month.. a dealership will show you $250 a month payment and see what you say. you go wellll thats too much. they go ok let me talk to my manager and see what we can do for you... ok well were running a promo right now and we can make it $235 for you.. you say still too much.. they pull over the manager.. he says well we really want your business i can go $230, but thats it im not making any money on thi car but iwant you to be happy and come back hereblah blah. you say ok i can do $230.. you think you got a deal in the end youre really paying $16,560 or $1,560 more than msrp(never pay more than msrp, ever!), thats all commision for the sales guy. so be smart, add up your payments, and check over everything. take your time.

plus all 2014 gm vehicles come with 2 years free maintenance. meaning free oil changes and tire rotations, most dealerships this also includes a car wash too. so add that up and its about $300. plus you have on star which gets you a discount on your insurance. i have progressive, whos cheapest for you will depend on your driving record and various other things. call around, if youre making payments you will have to get full coverage.

i have a 2014 automatic and havent had a problem since.. you hear people complaining about issues on their cars its in the older models.

oh buddy, i just read some of the other questions.. you need a friend to go with you. you should have passed a driving test to get a license. they wont sell you a car without one, so you should be able to drive it out. in selling the car they should wash it and fill the gas tank for you, have it perfect for you to drive off the lot. you should drive it before you even talk payments or paper work and when you drive back on the lot youll park it in a normal parking space, the sales person will drive it off the lot for you and then pull over on a side street and switch places with you. youll drive it back on the lot. next you have 2 weeks to get insurance for the vehicle, but youll need to provide proof of insurance from an existing vehicle. since this is your first car, like i said call around, get a quote, explain to them the situation of buying your first new car they help you out and tell you what you need to take with you when buying the car.

if they dont have the color you want look at other dealerships, theyre all very competitive and will probably match the price. go to the chevy website, build and price the car you want then do a search for that car from local dealers and youll find the one no need to drive or call around and get bugged by sales people. if you do want to have the one close to order it and leave a deposit, dont leave anymore than $500 and pay with a credit card. not cash, not check, not bank atm card, a credit card, so if for any reason they try to screw you you have the credit company on your side that will get you your money back. also this deposit is completely refundable, if they tell you otherwise leave and go to another dealership because theyre lying to you.

lastly as other have said rent a uhaul or moving truck i prefer budget (cheaper than uhaul) and get a tow dolly for the spark, you can tow with the spark, but its very little and i wouldnt recommend it. or move and buy the spark when you get to your new place. the next holiday i think thats coming is thanksgiving where theyll have deals on the cars. if you can wait till then i would.

good luck ;D

[sdpapet 0]

Funny you say that. I took this photo earlier today, before I even saw this post of the Honda Fit comparison. The 2013 Spark is mine, the 2007 Fit is my mothers. She drove from Maine, I drove from Ohio; We met in Florida.

They really aren't comparable, in my eyes. I'm no expert, but I've seen and driven both of them in the past week. Of course the Fit is bigger, more power, lower MPG, and higher priced. There's 5 seats, instead of four. The "trunk" is twice the size of that in the Spark. The Fit also comes with a spare donut tire.

Doing it again, I would still go with the Spark over the Fit. Unless they were comparable in price, with the same options; but they're not.

Thanks for you photo. This is so cool.

BTW, you mean Spark doesn't come with the 5th backup tire?

[jibb3r 29]

Thanks for you photo. This is so cool.

BTW, you mean Spark doesn't come with the 5th backup tire?

Nope. You get the four on the ground, and a compressor and some fix-a-flat junk, I guess.

[sdpapet 0]

Hi Jibb3r,

So, did you buy another spare tire by yourself? You know if you travel long distance (from OH to FL0, what if a tire blows out?

[sdpapet 0]

Nope. You get the four on the ground, and a compressor and some fix-a-flat junk, I guess.

Hi, what kind of warranty did you get?

Here, the dealer told me 3 years / 30,000 warrenty and 5 years for main part like engine. Do you know the what normally 3 years warrenty will cover?

Also, I did a test drive, but it wasn't very long. Does normally dealer has 14 day rules? If you don't think the car that you pick up is good, you can change another one, but you can't get fully refunded.

[sdpapet 0]

hey sdpapet.. ok first.. i used to sell cars..

almost a grand under msrp for a car that doesnt cost much to begin with is a good deal. the mark up on these is very little, meaning the dealership doesnt make much off selling them. you may be able to get them to go to an actual $1000 less but thats about it. unless youre paying cash for the whole thing theres not much haggle room here.

things to be weary of and be careful when purchasing, the length and apr of the loan, and your payments. go over the contract, take a calculator, add things up before signing, just because it says $1000 less than msrp for total price, make sure theyre not screwing you with some other money somewhere like gap insurance or some extended warranty (that being said extended warrantys are great to get, just make sure its a gmpp warranty and not some other third party youve never heard of) dont be afraid to get up and walk out if youre feeling things are shady if you havent signed anything you dont owe the $h!t ..

dealerships negotiate monthly payments, not total price. for example on a spark say its msrp is $15k. youre going to make 6 years of payments (72 months) with nothing down and 0% apr(this is an example not including tax and all that other stuff) your payments should be $208.33/month.. a dealership will show you $250 a month payment and see what you say. you go wellll thats too much. they go ok let me talk to my manager and see what we can do for you... ok well were running a promo right now and we can make it $235 for you.. you say still too much.. they pull over the manager.. he says well we really want your business i can go $230, but thats it im not making any money on thi car but iwant you to be happy and come back hereblah blah. you say ok i can do $230.. you think you got a deal in the end youre really paying $16,560 or $1,560 more than msrp(never pay more than msrp, ever!), thats all commision for the sales guy. so be smart, add up your payments, and check over everything. take your time.

plus all 2014 gm vehicles come with 2 years free maintenance. meaning free oil changes and tire rotations, most dealerships this also includes a car wash too. so add that up and its about $300. plus you have on star which gets you a discount on your insurance. i have progressive, whos cheapest for you will depend on your driving record and various other things. call around, if youre making payments you will have to get full coverage.

i have a 2014 automatic and havent had a problem since.. you hear people complaining about issues on their cars its in the older models.

oh buddy, i just read some of the other questions.. you need a friend to go with you. you should have passed a driving test to get a license. they wont sell you a car without one, so you should be able to drive it out. in selling the car they should wash it and fill the gas tank for you, have it perfect for you to drive off the lot. you should drive it before you even talk payments or paper work and when you drive back on the lot youll park it in a normal parking space, the sales person will drive it off the lot for you and then pull over on a side street and switch places with you. youll drive it back on the lot. next you have 2 weeks to get insurance for the vehicle, but youll need to provide proof of insurance from an existing vehicle. since this is your first car, like i said call around, get a quote, explain to them the situation of buying your first new car they help you out and tell you what you need to take with you when buying the car.

if they dont have the color you want look at other dealerships, theyre all very competitive and will probably match the price. go to the chevy website, build and price the car you want then do a search for that car from local dealers and youll find the one no need to drive or call around and get bugged by sales people. if you do want to have the one close to order it and leave a deposit, dont leave anymore than $500 and pay with a credit card. not cash, not check, not bank atm card, a credit card, so if for any reason they try to screw you you have the credit company on your side that will get you your money back. also this deposit is completely refundable, if they tell you otherwise leave and go to another dealership because theyre lying to you.

lastly as other have said rent a uhaul or moving truck i prefer budget (cheaper than uhaul) and get a tow dolly for the spark, you can tow with the spark, but its very little and i wouldnt recommend it. or move and buy the spark when you get to your new place. the next holiday i think thats coming is thanksgiving where theyll have deals on the cars. if you can wait till then i would.

good luck ;D

Thank you Skids.

1> You mentioned that I should do a test drive before I buy it? Can you tell me the purpose for this. It's a new car. I know people do this to buy a used car and try to find some problems. New car should be checked in the factory. Also, does dealer normally give buyer a 14 days. During these 14 days, you can exchange car but can be fully refunded, if you don't like it. My point is how long I should drive for test driving. If it has some problems, it might not be able to find it out during the test driving. Also, am I insured druing the test driving? You know I am a beginner (I have driving licence). If I got collision druing test driving, who should be reponsible for. If I need test driving, how long should I drive and will the dealer with me in the car?

2> "make sure theyre not screwing you with some other money somewhere like gap insurance or some extended warranty?" For the gap insurance, do you mean the 2 weeks for me to get the insurance? The dealer didn't mention this to me? He asked me to come and buy the car with insurance. Is it a generally rule that dealers should give me gap insurance?

3>I read some posts on www.kbb.com. Someone says this car doesn't perform very well on freeway at high speed (especailly for automatic driving). What do you guys think, if you have owned one? Is it really bad?

Thanks,

Edited September 20, 2014 by sdpapet

[austex04 48]

Don't drive ANY car until you get insurance! You can still get insurance even if you don't own a car, it's just for driving only, and is cheap. Many who don't own a car, but rent one from time to time get this type of insurance. You may also be required to show proof of insurance when you apply for your drivers license.

[jibb3r 29]

Hi, what kind of warranty did you get?

Here, the dealer told me 3 years / 30,000 warrenty and 5 years for main part like engine. Do you know the what normally 3 years warrenty will cover?

Also, I did a test drive, but it wasn't very long. Does normally dealer has 14 day rules? If you don't think the car that you pick up is good, you can change another one, but you can't get fully refunded.

I just have the basic factory warranty, I didn't purchase any extended warranties.

Hi Jibb3r,

So, did you buy another spare tire by yourself? You know if you travel long distance (from OH to FL0, what if a tire blows out?

No, I didn't buy a spare. I made the trip without one.

[Skids 108]

test drive it make sure you like the way it drives. inspect the inside and out for dents dings scratches, tears in the fabric stains etc. make sure stuff works. the salesperson should explain how everything works to you like the blinkers, wipers, ac hazard lights head lights etc. usually the cars sit there for a while, theyre dirty someone accidently scratched it. there are factory defects every once in a while these are things you need to look for.

in california theres no "cooling off period" meaning once you sign the paperwork the car is yours no trade backs so make sure you like it. where you are the dealer may offer 14days but probably not a new car because once you drive its value decreases by a lot. on used cars it may not matter and theyll offer the 14 days on used cars only. on a est drive usually theyll take you around the block. take a longer drive. go on the freeway. youre about to spend a lot of money, assume control, be the boss, they smell weakness, so be assertive, tell him, dont ask him you want to go on the freeway, and around the block again.

the dealer provides the insurance during the drive. if you crash youre protected, if its your fault it may go on your driving record but their insurance covers it, they may try to go after you for the deductible for the accident though. also you can still get pulled over for speeding and stuff so still obey traffic laws. and yes the sales peron will go wit you. they wont just give you the keys and say have fun.

gap insurance is additional insurance offered to cover the gap between what the insurance company will give you(the value of the car) and the cost of the car so you can buy a new one, if the car is totaled. gap insurance is offered not mandatory. i checked kbb on my car just to see the vale and its value is $6,000 less than what i just bought it for months ago so gap insurance might be a good thing in this case. about $800 and it goes into your monthly payments (about $5 a month more)

i think this thing performs just fine on the freeway ive gotten it up to 90 with out problems. its 0-30 is a little slow but after 30 you can floor it and it zips right along. i have to new cvt trans or "automatic" no problems on the freeway at all.

all new sparks come with.. so if you do get a flat that the repair filler kit cant fix you get free towing and such.. an extended warranty would cover everything out side of power train like if the radio breaks or something

2-Year Scheduled Maintenance 2 Years/24,000 Miles Bumper-to-Bumper Limited Warranty 3 Years/36,000 Miles Corrosion Warranty 3 Years/36,000 Miles
Rust-Through
6 Years/100,000 Miles Powertrain/Drivetrain Limited Warranty 5 Years/100,000 Miles Roadside Assistance and Courtesy Transportation

5 Years/100,000 Miles

[sdpapet 0]

Hi Skids,

Thanks for explaining this to me.

[Skids 108]

no problem. i hope it helps. good luck.