Retired old Gearhead

The metal insert inside the nipple where it fails has been removed in the revised tank . Time will tell if it holds up better than the original design 

Me too. Within my family have Owned 12+ different new cars and 6+ used cars,  but never had a coolant tank leaking or cracking. Can't believe the designers do not learn from history or try to cheapen the design to save a few pennies.

So- I have the 2015 Spark and just had to replace the overflow tank for the exact same problem. At a little over 43k miles.  So - Chevy has not addressed this issue - just FYI. Thanks to all at this forum for making this problem have a quick resolution!!!

The $100 is probably the deductible on your warranty contract, so no matter if it costs $101 or $10001 you will come out only $100 out of pocket.
It is cheaper to do it yourself. 

In the old days, I have replaced a few radiator caps. Now there are no radiator caps, so the overflow reservoir goes bust. On a positive note, it is a cheap repair compared to some part failing inside the engine or transmission or such. 
 
Without doing a lot of structural analysis, the hose is attached to the engine, while the overflow tank is attached to the car body. Thus every bump will cause some bending stress on the plastic tank through  the hose. Plastic material has very low fatigue levels subjected to variable stress. Obviously the tank design is flawed. 
 
 

And now going on overflow tank number 2....  Same issue with first tank, bad Manufacturing on bonded seem of tank.  Definite design flaw with these tanks

I would take it to a trusted independent garage just for the diagnosis before a parts order as it could be a number of things both minor or major.

I loved looks of Karmann Ghia in 1960's!  Just could not afford it, so bought a new Corvair 1964. It was a tiger in snow & icy conditions. We had this huge snow storm in 1967 in Chicago (60" snow in 3-4 days) few people made it home from work, but my Corvair was like a snow plow and got me home! 
 
My 2007 Pontiac G5 was not all that different from  my 2017 SPark. The G5 was fully computer controlled with fuel injection, had remote start & lock/unlock. It was front wheel drive with ABS & traction control. In fact after 9 years I got P301 & Traction control show up on dash screen. It could display average MPG, average speed, remaining gas mileage, oil life remaining, and a whole lot more. 

Yup..even though the problems are not serious..dealer needs to honor warranty..try another dealer or call GM 1-800 customer care #..have your VIN and other purchase/dealer & warranty info handy. This stuff is beyond a simple glovebox type rattle...

I agree with Mr. Tozzi. Few years back when this pre-owned certified car system started in India, I thought this to good way to buy a used car. But couple of things which I learnt are :
1. They put some hidden T&C like warranty will not be given for more than 5 yr old vehicle of their own brand, further for newer vehicle, this is covering very few things.
2. There certification is just filling formalities, they literally doesn't own it. Suppose you mate with luck, they can simply say its old car and this is consumable.
Positive side is, owner is verified (no case of stolen vehicle) and they process the ownership transfer, so you can relax for not going to transport office couple of times.
Though I have bought my spark from one of maruti-suzuki certified store. I opted thus just for above positives and because I got it real cheap. And before buying, I got help from friends and a mechanic (store have arranged) to estimate expenses need to do right after purchase.

Certified cars are just a gimick to crank the price up. Mine was certified 5 min before I signed the papers by the finance guy so I could get a lower interest rate.
 
All those issues should be covered under bumper to bumper warranty. Find another dealer or get a hold of chevy customer service.
 

Unless its making a horrible noise and severe vibration when accelerating or any other time its not slipping. The second program they issued did cause a slip and that was why they issued the recall and did a third reprogram. It will still slip if you get it bound up a certain way but it doesn't happen very often. 

Ya, me too, but that seems to be the reported symptoms and issue causing it in some older models and now in the 2015-2016. I just used process of elimination and user feedback...It was successful in resolving two cases on Euro 2010-2012 Spark/Aveo and one 2016 US model Spark.

Are the fans running with the ac off right after you turn the car on? 
If they are check the fan relays in the fuse box under the hood, theres a chance someone shorted the relay to keep the fans running so the car would not overheat.

I agree on this completely..should have been a recall. If not caught in time could very well lead to badly overheated engine, seized pistons, warped head or bent valves and other expensive issues normally covered by drivetrain warranty but dealer can say that it is the owners responsibility to check levels. Fastest way to check while driving is to check to see if you have a functioning heater..hot air after warm up...level OK..no hot air..level empty. I had that issue and had the new tank sprayed with a plastic 'dryout' protection product..don't recall the name but it's supposed to prevent dryout and cracking. This has now been an issue on the 2013-2015 Sparks..2016 onward have a different tank but same material..so lets see how well they hold up.. Some, but fewer Cruze and Sonics have had the same issue. I was told by my mechanic to keep the level no higher than mid seam so the coolant can splash around a bit while driving thus cooling it a bit.

Bobby, I guess, you are not keeping your spare million $$$ in trunk, if Nicolas Cage is there both your car n cash will be "Gone in 60sec". Just joking.
Mine is 1gen Indian spark, all I have is a small latch release next to driver door, else key is required. Poor thing is they have given a door switch in bonnet but not in hatch so if someone manage to open hatch my remote lock system doesn't sound. Thinking of drilling a hole and put a door switch in hatch.

Could be some debris got stuck under the car. The item was stuck going forward, but when the car moved in reverse, it could have dislodged from the car.
 
Something similar happened to me  on my 1964 Corvair Monza. I was driving on unlighted part of Lake Shore Drive in Chicago, around 10 pm and it was pitch dark. There was a section of the road under repair with modified lanes with pylons. One of the rubber pylons had fallen and rolled to the middle of lane, which I saw at the very last second, and could not avoid it and drove right over it. It was a rubber pylon so did not make much noise when I hit it, and the car drove normally. When I got home and parked the car, I inspected the under-carriage for any possible damage. Holy chihuahua, the whole pylon, about 2 feet long and 9" wide at base, was still stuck under the car! Luckily nothing was damaged and the car behaved normal after removing the pylon.

Old gearhead, I wish you ran a car repair shop in my town! 
You have heckuva good knowledge of car repair issues. I am certain
posters and lurkers on this forum appreciate your input.

Ha ha..Ya..Nice work on the price haggle Dill!...If they can do car pricing deals they can do it for parts as well..next time you are at a jewelry or other store or chain try the same method and suddenly an $800 item like a watch becomes $550...damaged/dented can of soup suddenly is half price, scratched wrench/battery etc at Walmart same thing. Good luck with the tank install..if you have some silicone grease you can apply that to the tank hose connectors for an easier, better fit and longer lasting seal and connection leak resistant.
 
    Also..Bobby..your welcome and I find that site a big help and accurate source for tech and parts for the Spark.

Thanks for all the help! Went to a local dealer today and got the right part. For any future folks who stumble on this thread please note that the part number ending in 2004 looks exactly like the correct part, all the hoses will fit except for the bottom hose. Make sure if you order you are getting the right part. Best to remove the old one first to verify. The part number was stamped into the bottom of the tank. Also! The dealers have varying prices. They tried to sell me the tank only for $60. I brought up another dealer who had told me earlier they had it and would sell it for $45. This dealer then lowered the price to $40. Your dealer absolutely has the ability to adjust the pricing on items.

The problem is throwing parts at an issue isn't cheap either. The Spark doesn't use a conventional thermostat so its more costly then the old style $5 ones. It could be a thermostat, clogged radiator, fan issue, clogged hose somewhere, or various other things. You said the check engine light came on. What code is it showing? Autozone will read the codes for you for free so that would be the place to start. 

When you Google that part number it comes up under one listing as for a 2012 and other listings for 2013-2015 but they are Chinese knock offs. If you search Ebay for 2014 Spark coolant tank they all come up with your original part number and most are from a dealer or a GM supplier. 

What Bobby said is right . You really need to buy using your VIN number as there may have been running changes during a model year . If you buy from Ebay there's no guarantee it's the correct part or where it's from . You may get the  old original failure prone  part instead of a revised one . I Would go to  GM parts online and get another tank .

My understanding is a replacement coolant overflow tank can be purchased for $40 on line from a Chevy dealer, based on posts on this forum. That is the route I would go instead of buying it on eBay from a non-Chevy seller. There is a better chance of getting the right part that way, instead of messing with adapters.