All Activity

This stream auto-updates   

  1. Yesterday
  2. I bought a new 2019 Chevy Spark on Friday December 7th and I haven't seen it much since then. The radio audio died and I returned it to Dimmitt Chevy in Florida on the 8th. I went to pick up my new car with a new radio on the 14th and the radio audio died again while driving home. I returned to the dealer who said they would have it fixed today, the 15th. Nope! I had to call them and ask what's going on and they said it wont be ready until next week. (I smell a lemon...) Has anyone else heard of this problem?
  3. Last week
  4. When I needed a heated steering wheel on my riding golf cart, I connected directly to the battery terminals with wires running to the steering wheel cover which had heating elements. That power is always available. Electric Golf carts run on a bank of tandem batteries and are charged with a battery charger after the round of golf.
  5. I have a 2017 Spark. I recently discovered that the electric power socket (AKA the cigarette lighter socket) is connected via the ignition switch. Thus no power is available when the car is not running. I have a need to have a continuous electric power source when the car is not running. This would be used to run small electronic devices. The current draw would be about 200 milliamps. I have been unable to find any wiring schematics. Can anybody suggest an simple way to connect to the electrical system to accomplish this. I suspect that there is a unused terminal at one of its fuse boxes that could be used. I am open to any suggestions as too how to accomplish this. Tnx
  6. Earlier
  7. Has anyone followed up on this topic? I'm really interested in swapping a Sonic motor into my spark.
  8. I noticed driving style was a major factor. Is your dash reading also around 50mpg? Sorry, just read your comment again. Very impressive. My goal is $ per mile and power. I'm converting to e85 and throwing a turbo on. I am excited for the turbo and the CVT combo. I will not come close to the mpg you reached. What are your eco hacks? You could probably use hp tuners for more but it is spendy and 50 is pretty insane as is. You could find someone local with the set up. I'm MN based One potential useful tip is thinking aerodynamics. Those fog light spots where there are just grey indents should be smoothed out. One day I covered them with painters tape for fun. Seemed to help a tad but I didn't do any serious testing. A more permanent option like bondo might work if the results are good
  9. “I had very constructive meetings with members of Congress from Ohio and Maryland. I share their concerns about the impact the actions we announced last week will have on our employees, their families and the communities. These were very difficult decisions -- decisions I take very personally. I informed the members that many hourly employees at the impacted U.S. plants will have the opportunity to work at other U.S. GM plants and that we are committed to working with them to minimize the impact on the communities. I also informed them that all salaried GM workers impacted by these actions are being offered outplacement services to help them transition to new jobs.” View the full article
  10. Interesting. While the following is probably not the case with your Spark, it was with mine. I bought a used 2016 Spark (21k mies) last Spring. It started rattling after a month. Rattled mostly at certain RPMs and it was consistent. I initially thought it was a heat shield, then the right rear door. It was kind of hard to judge just where it was coming from. After a few months of this, I finally booked an appointment to take it to the dealer for a broken driver's door lock and the 2 recalls. When I made the appointment, the mysterious 'rattle' was also on the list of things to fix. The night before I was to take it in, I went over it all again to try and locate the rattle. DAMN! It was the stupid metal frame surrounding the license plate! I removed the frame and the rattle stopped. Note: I was also able to induce the rattle again, without the frame, if the plate was bent just right (or 'wrong' I guess). Don't we wish every problem in life could be fixed that easily? .
  11. .
  12. 27k to go and I'll be expired and looking as well
  13. I basically used your approach, but instead of cutting the wires I destroyed the connector. I superglue the clip back together, hopefully it can last a while. At least now I know how to disconnect them.
  14. Thanks for you replay. I searched for an under-hood picture for your car, and I don't think it uses the same connector as mine. I FIGURED IT OUT! I broke one of my connector when I was fiddling with it with a screw driver(I broke the while plastic into pieces by mistake) At that point I decided to destroy the connector so I can reverse engineer the inner construction of it. After some careful inspection, I found the solution: you have to push the white clip to the outside position and press the white clip and the black plastic under it and the same tile REALLY REALLY HARD, and pull the connector out while doing it. Thanks again!
  15. My warranty and extended warranty are long since over (103,156 miles on my 2017 as of this morning) , that's why I'm starting to look at this more.
  16. I'm Hypermiling in my 2015 Chevy spark LT1 CVT On mpg gauge it's 50.4 mpg Last 1600 miles average 54 mpg city/highway/day/night mixture of driving checking each time I fill up with 10% ethanol gas..... anyone have any ideas on better mpg or mpg hacks
  17. I've hooked up my flex fuel sensor just before the fuel rail and wired it to the ecm. The next step is to enable the sensor in hp tuners.
  18. This might sound really dumb but as a last option you could maybe save the plug and cut the wires going to the replacement part and part to be replaced. Then solder the wires going to the plug. Again probably dumb but may be an option. Chevy Beat seems to have some good guidance I would definitely explore first. Best of luck!
  19. I finished wiring the sensor to the computer and enabled the flex fuel sensor in the computer via hp tuners. I will still have to tune the vehicle but there is a baseline that will change based on ethanol content. I ordered a badge for the hatch. The ZZP midpipe I have been waiting for is finally back in stock so I ordered that as well. Should be here by early January.
  20. Hi, That extraction tool you have shown is for removing terminal from plug. Now, after looking 360 view of connector and the other end on purge valve body, I understand that you need to push down (press inside) the white tab and then need to pull whole plug, it seems it need much force due to 2 guides on side and 2 inside connector. I haven't checked on car as I am not sure where to look for it, so I searched the purge valve on Google. Below is link for pics. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-GM-Vapor-Canister-Purge-Valve-Solenoid-for-2012-2018-Chevrolet-Sonic-1-8L-L4/283005277749?epid=16020325037&hash=item41e46dd635:g:8ssAAOSwdIFbH4al) I can check this on car if you can guide me little for location (further, mine is 2010 LS India).
  21. I'm looking into a possible intake upgrade. The only thing a found was a prototype made by lab b.
  22. So I replaced the driver side axle for my spark and some tranny fluid leaked out. I could not gauge how much came out and the dipstick is rediculously short. Does anyone know the proper procedure to drain and fill my cvt transmission? I really don’t want to void my warranty by not having enough fluid in the transmission. The car has 11,xxx miles.
  23. My wife has a '17 Trax, and I ALSO work in IT... what a coincidence. The reason the mounts are the same for the Trax is that it's built on the same chassis as the Spark (Sonic too). The Trax engine however is a different family, meaning you'd have to figure out all the myriad of things that are different vs. the Cruze motor which is roughly the same bottom end (exceptions noted in previous posts), so in theory should be able to accommodate either Cruze or Spark mounts as their positions on the block would be the same. What I have found from my own light research is that the MAP sensor across the 1.4 in our cars appears to be able to read boost from the factory.. oil pan is different between cruze + spark... cruze is DI vs SFI on the spark, and the CR's are different. It's very likely that you COULD bolt on the cruze 1.4 turbo + all its associated lines to the spark 1.4, AND HPTuners now supports the spark so you CAN tune the PCM for it. Mostly I'm waiting on my warranty to expire so I can play
  24. A garage door keypad makes your automatic garage door opener more convenient and easier to use. The keypad consists of a button remote that requires a security code to open the door. I always prefer the wireless remote for home security that give me the peace my mind and stressfree life caused due to professional thieves.
  25. DETROIT — General Motors (NYSE: GM) and Cruise are taking the next step toward commercializing autonomous vehicle technology with the appointment of Dan Ammann as CEO of Cruise. Kyle Vogt, Cruise co-founder, will partner with Ammann to set strategic direction for the company and will lead technology development as Cruise president and chief technology officer. The appointments are effective Jan. 1, 2019. View the full article
  26. I know this is an old topic but my wife just got a Trax with the 1.4 Turbo and it seems (keep in mind I'm a computer guy not a mechanic), the engine mounts and everything are exactly the same in the 2018 Trax 1.4 Turbo as they are in my 2017 Spark 1.4.....seems like that would be a much easier swap.
  27. The first thing is I don't go to the dealer unless I have to. I have a mechanic I have gone to for about 15 years now, he keeps an eye on everything and lets me know what's going on. The only thing not right with the car is the drivers side lower seat cushion is flat, I had to put a cushion on the seat to make it feel better again. Factory brakes front and rear are still good, Jay (my mechanic) said I will probably need to replace the fronts in 15-20k mi more......The stock tires were even good to me, I got 64,000 miles out of them.
  28. The same connector is also used at few other places in the car I think one next to the exhaust manifold and one next to the engine air filter casing. I've tried push every piece of plastic I can, use a screwdriver to poke around. I spent way too many hours on this, at this point I am will to go to a gm dealer and pay them to see how they would unplug this connector. Maybe this extraction tool is required? Even if I get this tool, I wouldn't know how to use it. https://www.automotive-connectors.com/walter-schroeder-121071-extraction-tool-for-kostal-mlk-1-2-with-protective-cover.html You can tell this is a German connector. It is so over engineered, maybe it is little bit better compare to other connectors spec wise(water vibration resistance). But it is so not intuitive and probably very costly to replace. Sorry about all the negative emotions, at this point it is just frustration. (To rub more salt to the wound, I am an electrical engineer. Although more on the computer side of things)
  1. Load more activity