The paint code and matching has nothing to do with primer, or basecoat underneath.
The he paint code serves at a benchmark for the factory color. That color if mixed properly will be exact to the original color from factory.
Now, most major paint manufactures (DuPont and PPG) have variant chips. This allows you to pull the paint code in the body shop computer. It will list the factory code and every variant it will have for matching purposes. You take the variant chip book to the car and start comparing chips. Then once you find the correct chip you mix that variant. From there you still might have to tweet a bit but for most cases it's fine.
Another thing is you do not panel paint just the part. Even all major insurance companies pay to blend both adjacent panels for seamless color. Once done properly you will never notice.
Other factors with painting can be air pressure especially with pearls and metallics. I used to be in that buisness and dealt with it daily.
@Retired old Gearhead
Everything you said plus have it visually checked for accident and bodywork. Carfax is good but most damage is never reported and paid out of pocket so it would not show on Carfax.
Not if the price is right..like around $6K or less. Pretty sure you can 'haggle' it down to that. Before you buy, it might be a good idea to see if you can have the car checked out by an independent mechanic..or if you know cars..check out things like clutch, bearings and brakes for excessive wear. Rust shouldn't be an issue in SC. Many people already have well over 100Kmi on the 2013's without issues. Guy who delivers our pizza has a 2013 with close to 180Kmi and it still runs great.
At the very least get the VIN and enter it on the GM owners site to be sure the critical recall service has been done (only critical for 2013 was the PCV replace)----Link----> https://my.chevrolet.com/recalls Good luck and let us know how it goes...K? (forum members like feedback on questions like this)
So, I have a Spark LS, and I wanted to remove the steering wheel and replace it with the LT version so that I can use the cruise control switch on the LT wheel instead of drilling a hole for a Cruise Control "lever".
I'm having major issues with taking the old wheel off, is there any tool that will fit the Spark? I bought a universal tool and broke it :/
Also, what is the layout for the wires of the cruise control and how can I set this up? The Spark has two wires, my cruise control kit has 6.
I am considering getting a 2013 Spark LT with 86,xxx miles on it. It looks to be in immaculate shape, though I'm not sure if it is risky to get a 3 year-old Spark with such high miles.