2017 1.4L Spark LS Turbo project

[thismarks 65]

Today I wired my new 3 Bar map sensor and tested it. I wired in the ( Honda ) harness only after testing the wire leads. They do differ from one another. The Chevy leads on the stock 1 Bar sensor go from Voltage (5 volts input ), to Ground ( - ), to output voltage (4.0 volts plus or minus a bit when the car ignition is on but the car is not started ). The Honda harness goes from Voltage, to output, to ground. When wiring, you have to make sure to switch the Output and ground lead connections. I have included pictures. Again, the 3 bar is with the Honda harness.  I cut, soldered, heat shrink wrapped, electrical taped, and zip tied the connections. Little overkill but, I didn't want issues in the future. Notice I left the stock harness in. This is because I need to drive the car daily. So, I'll swap the sensors on Turbo tune day. I taped off the Honda harness until then and put the 3 bar map sensor back in the box. 

 

 

Edited October 30, 2019 by thismarks

[thismarks 65]

Also received my new ptfe oil drain hose. Ran into a snag when trying to attach the 10an fittings. Apparently, you need different fittings for the hose because there is very little if no give in the actual hose. My work around was a simple one. Screw the fitting into the hose until it butts the end, and then use a hose clamp to clamp the hose onto the threaded fitting. After I wrenched the fitting in a few times more to make it tighter.

 The first pic is the end piece it would not go in. Typical drain line is tight but, will fit. The second is the quality hose I bought. The third is the final result.

[thismarks 65]

More prep work today. I cut the screw channels with my rotary tool for my stainless T2 inlet flange. This way, I can start the bolts and slide the flange over the two bolts where there is little clearance. This flange was very well made and it took several cut off wheels to cut the channels. I used the gasket and a pencil to mark the turbo exhaust inlet. As you can see in the pictures, the stainless flange has a rectangle feed outlet and the  turbo has a smaller circular inlet. I will be grinding this area marked in pencil slightly to reduce the exhaust turbulance into the turbo and prevent carbon build-up. 

[ChevyBeat 28]

On 10/30/2019 at 3:14 AM, thismarks said:

Notice I left the stock harness in. This is because I need to drive the car daily

Hi, may be my understanding is wrong but you have added 2nd connector (or harness) to existing one. And you want to keep both working for now.

 

My idea for this type of situation is instead of cutting original harness, make a extension which have one side connector like a sensor and other side what you have added. This way you can avoid soldering and rest thing also it will be easily understood by any mechanic working on your car, in case. Lastly, it looks neat. I thought this when I was about to use 9005 LED buld while original harness have H8/H11 connector for fog lamp. It's just my 1 cent idea.

I am regular viewer of both turbo threads. Good luck for your build.

[thismarks 65]

1 hour ago, ChevyBeat said:

Hi, may be my understanding is wrong but you have added 2nd connector (or harness) to existing one. And you want to keep both working for now.

 

My idea for this type of situation is instead of cutting original harness, make a extension which have one side connector like a sensor and other side what you have added. This way you can avoid soldering and rest thing also it will be easily understood by any mechanic working on your car, in case. Lastly, it looks neat. I thought this when I was about to use 9005 LED buld while original harness have H8/H11 connector for fog lamp. It's just my 1 cent idea.

I am regular viewer of both turbo threads. Good luck for your build.  

Your understanding is correct. Yes, an adapter / extension harness would be nice, unfortunately I wasn't able to find a product like you are describing : Chevrolet male to Honda Female Map Sensor Harness. I could have fabricated one with my knowledge but, I was cutting cost by just soldering in the second harness. I appreciate your interest! I work 50+ hrs a week so, I make small progress and try to post often.

[thismarks 65]

New drain flange and 45° angle fitting arrived. I am happy with the quality. I shaved the compressor housing bolt slightly to feel more comfortable with the drain hole line-up.  I did have to buy some new M6 x 25mm Allen screws, stainless washers and stainless lock washers to fit the flange and turbo. The screws that came with it were M8 screws. If I had a better hardware shop, I would have chosen stainless for the Allen screws as well but, I'll take what I can get. After all, it is an oil drain and not a pressure fitting. I had to use an actual Allen wrench  that I cut a bit off to get under the 45° fitting.  All is tight now. I also grinded the turbo inlet smooth for the inlet gasses today. Next is going to be cutting my exhaust pipe to get the custom angled pipes fabricated. I am hoping this part goes smooth. I'm running out of time before the cold weather catches up to me.

[thismarks 65]

Attached all my fittings this morning using the heavy duty ptfe thread tape making sure to not cover any flow points. Also installed the turbo blanket onto the hot side of the turbo. I had to cut a small circular hole in the top of the turbo blanket for a mounting bolt / support point. I am planning on getting as much support as possible to hold the weight of the turbo. It isn't manifold mounted so, the weight has to be properly supported. Keep in mind that the turbo has to be supported by engine or transmission and not by the car frame unless the supports are floating supports ( have a lot of play or give to move a few inches freely). If I don't do this, the turbo could easily get damaged from engine or chassis movement. The wastegate still moves fine without interference from the blanket. It looks like it is pressing up against it, but I am not worried about the movement.  The blanket is filled and woven fiberglass,  with a foil layer, and stainless steel screen layer. The outside looks to be silicone coated with fiberglass thread.  I cut the hole with a new blade in a utility knife. The fiberglass cut easily. The stainless screen mesh under it was stubborn and I needed the help of a screwdriver to spread the mesh out enough to start the anchor bolt.

[thismarks 65]

After lining up things, I have decided to make it easier on myself and move the radiator support crossmember forward about 3 inches. The welds will need to be cut and then it will either need to be bolted back on or welded. I'll consult my buddy to make sure it will provide the same structural support before making a final decision.

 

 

[thismarks 65]

Cold weather is here, so my updates will be slower. I also have to pass emissions in a couple months....so I will be reverting some changes to get the car passing emissions. 

This is a quick audio file I made of the PVC S-Pipe warm air intake and stainless filter. In my opinion this sounds awesome driving daily. This is just the intake, stock exhaust. 

Short PVC WAI with stainless filter

[thismarks 65]

Doing little projects, as I needed a reducer fitting from my coolant lines to the turbo. These reducers are 1/2" to 1/4". Threads are wrapped in Teflon tape.  Parts from Home Depot, since my local auto store didn't have them. 

[thismarks 65]

I'm going to be making a fairly restrictive short warm air intake to get my car to drop the code. I'll post pics of the " law abiding intake " with tiny 60mm motorcycle  pod filter,  1.5" PVC S-pipe, modified MAF and new pcv fitting attached if it all works as intended.

 

Edit: Motorcycle filter was too restrictive and stalled the car out at idle.  I ended up keeping the PVC S-Pipe, creating an L fitting to go to the PCV breather, and attaching my stainless filter back on. The car isn't as fast but, the code hasn't come back. Looks like I'll be all set for inspection. Pic below is with the tiny motorcycle filter. ( When I ordered it, I imagined it to be bigger... Oh well, 

Edited November 18, 2019 by thismarks

[thismarks 65]

Now that I have my lean code taken care of for inspection purposes, we can get to the fun stuff! I changed my original plan to use a stock like pcv / check valve system with the turbo after some research. I will be installing a closed loop catch can system with the pcv gasses venting back into the system before the turbo. I also purchased a set of upgraded 1.4l Cruze Turbo fuel injectors, two sets of Brisk Silver core spark plugs, Banjo bolt style coolant fittings ( to save about 2" of needed space), and a replacement 2" flex pipe for the section of exhaust after the turbo. 

 

Edited April 20, 2020 by thismarks

[thismarks 65]

I wanted to separate this post as I have purchased the second set of plugs honestly as a test. After in depth reviews, Brisk plugs seem to be outstanding in tuning applications. The set of plugs I really wanted to try were not listed as an option for our cars. However, after a bit of research:  I found the model with the same thread, the same depth, and two heat ratings colder than the Autolite Platinum plugs for our cars. The best part - They are multi-spark, ( 3 sparks per cycle ) Silver core plugs, designed for a complete fuel burn. They are rated for mild turbo and supercharged applications as well. The three plugs listed on the Brisk site for the 1.4l Spark are direct fit options. I'm hoping my research pays off and the multi-spark plugs are a better option. ( Edited with closest plug fit since Brisk's site is incorrect )

 

 

 

 

Edited April 20, 2020 by thismarks
Incorrect info on spark plugs , corrected with pic

[LittleBlue! 102]

Good call on the plugs, I need to upgrade mine. Did you get data with your injectors and what do they flow per hour? Good progress!

[thismarks 65]

On 11/19/2019 at 1:38 AM, LittleBlue! said:

Good call on the plugs, I need to upgrade mine. Did you get data with your injectors and what do they flow per hour? Good progress!

The 1.2l Spark would use BR14ZC for a multi-spark plug. It's a colder range plug with a 12mm thread. I was just doing the footwork when you replied.

 

The injectors are a modified Bosch I believe with a 9 hole spread pattern instead of four. 29lb./hr Injectors.

Edited April 20, 2020 by thismarks
Corrected info

[LittleBlue! 102]

Awesome, thanks for the info on spark plugs! My new project and home remodel has taking all of my free time so I really appreciate the info. On the injectors, they don't seem to far off so tuning shouldn't be too bad. I just know the more data the company or seller provides the smoother that process goes.

[AbigailBurns 2]

Hello, do you have Facebook? I am part of the m400 group which is all 2016 model owners. We are currently arguing and trying to figure out how to turbocharge our models and could use some insight?

[thismarks 65]

Thanks AbigailBurns for the interest!  I Messaged you.

 I'm back for a quick review of some of my new parts that arrived. I thought I would post some real pictures of my catch can and maybe next about my plugs that I received. 

[thismarks 65]

This is a comparison of the Stock plug type Versus the Brisk Multospark plugs I purchased. ( MR12ZS ). I thought the reach ( distance from seat to tip of the electrode ) would be too far so, I ordered crush washers. I was wrong though, as the pictures show. I did not need the copper crush washers. Although both are supposed to be really good, I am trying to see how the multi-spark plugs perform.  After this post and lots more research, I found that there are 4 Brisk multispark plugs that will work as a direct fitment. BR08ZS, BR10ZS, BR12ZS, and BR14ZS. The numbers after the BR represent the heat range of the plug. These models also have the correct 19mm depth / reach. Although, AC Delco plugs (41-124) have a depth of 23.876mm and are also a direct replacement. *Update, plugs are great so far. Actually made the car quieter and idle smoother. I didn't think that was even possible! 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 28, 2020 by thismarks
Corrected info and added info

[Fire Spark 13]

That's really cool.  

 

[LittleBlue! 102]

Thanks again for the info on the plugs. I did a quick double check and the one you recommended is perfect. Ordered a set for my car. I think it will help quite a bit

[thismarks 65]

Since the snow has hit, and I have no garage to use yet, this thread will be very slow. I've decided to add more to the turbo project and get the most out of the whole build.  Just decided to do a custom D585 LS Coil conversion. I can't take credit for the complete idea since someone has already done the conversion and the footwork for a Sonic. I will have a complete second set with bracket if anyone is interested. Just pm me.    

[thismarks 65]

The kit just arrived. Pretty simple to assemble. I may figure out a way to mount these with coil on plug boots if there is clearance. If not, I may just buy a good set of wires and modify the plastic Ecotec cover in order to run the wires through. I'll follow up once I get some more measurements. 

[thismarks 65]

It's been a while, and I just purchased the Sonic 2.5"stainless exhaust for a steal. Ended up paying $125 shipped after a $50 PayPal Credit rebate and a eBay seller 5% discount. I'm going to have to modify the tail pipe I think ( it's ugly imo ) because it sticks out so far. Obviously the exhaust is much shorter on our Sparks as well. Maybe a cool carbon dual tip would look cool.  Being an " essential " worker during this time, I'm lucky? enough to still be working.  In the near future, I hope to get the turbo pipes welded in so I may begin on the journey to boost. 

 

 

 

Edited April 1, 2020 by thismarks

[thismarks 65]

Figured why not do the fuel pump too to prevent a headache if I needed it later. Just got this one off eBay for $26. Has almost all good reviews. Maybe run a post for the install later. 

 

 

 

Edited April 3, 2020 by thismarks