Active sub woofer on Chevrolet Spark MY2013

[nostalgija 1]

Greetings from Eastern part of Europe(Macedonia)

My son like to put active sub woofer into his vehicle,but he can't change stock radio because the vehicle is still under warranty period.My idea is to put active woofer into trunk.

I have electronic knowledge but with car radio not much.My question is:

If I use rear speakers to connect on high input on active woofer front speakers will work fine,and stock radio will be ok?

I am little worried about damaging of stock radio and loosing warranty period

I need some advice

Thank you

[bluer101 241]

You should have no issues. Here is my install with photos.

http://chevysparkforum.com/topic/729-kicker-upgrade/?hl=kicker

[1LoudLS 11]

agreed, active/powered subs are very easy to install, run a wire to the battery, ground it, and run a couple wire to each of the rear speakers. as long as the powered sub has an auto on feature, you wont even have to run a turn on/remote wire.

[Mr.tozzi 66]

I have one, just power wire to the battery, and I used my rear speakers to the speaker level input on the sub, didn't need a remote wire as it turns on by itself when the radio turns on.

[nostalgija 1]

Thank's guys

What I am real worried is because this stock radio has 4 speakers.So once again.If I connect rear speakers on high input into sub woofer amp front speakers will work normally and everything will be fine.I am woried about some damage on stock radio because warranty period is still valid

[nostalgija 1]

Because my idea is to install MAGNAT EDITION B33 800 WATT 12" Woofer and PIONEER GM-A3602 Amplifier.My question is:I need to install capacitor or connection will be regular like + on battery and - on chassis,and remote for turning amp on

I have electronic knowledge but with car audio not much.Any help will be appreciate

[bluer101 241]

Because my idea is to install MAGNAT EDITION B33 800 WATT 12" Woofer and PIONEER GM-A3602 Amplifier.My question is:I need to install capacitor or connection will be regular like + on battery and - on chassis,and remote for turning amp on

I have electronic knowledge but with car audio not much.Any help will be appreciate

You should be fine. If you find out your lights are starting to dim when turned up loud then you can always add a cap later.

[nostalgija 1]

You should be fine. If you find out your lights are starting to dim when turned up loud then you can always add a cap later.

What I am real worried is because this stock radio has 4 speakers.So once again.If I connect rear speakers on high input into sub woofer amp front speakers will work normally and everything will be fine.I am woried about some damage on stock radio because warranty period is still valid

[1LoudLS 11]

when using a high level input on an amp, the source unit (the OEM stereo) does not even "see" the amp, it doesn't know it is there. everything else will play just as it does now before the install.

the amp is only tapping into the speakers so that it can take a sample of the sound/signal then it cuts it down a bunch to a level that the ampflier's circuits can handle and the the amp can take that very weak signal and boost it back up even higher.

doing high level inputs (as long as done correctly) has no effect on the OEM radio as long as the speakers are still connected to it as it is just taking a sample of the signal, there is no change to the load on the OEM amp

Edited April 1, 2016 by 1LoudLS

[1LoudLS 11]

for what its worth, I personally would look into getting a better/different amp for driving subs...

first off that is a class AB amp, it is not as efficient as a class D amp, this is really a big deal in such a small car with a tiny battery and a smaller alternator, a class AB amp will waste more electricity and create more heat. both are bad

second, it is a 2 channel amp, and it can be a little more tricky to find a sub to match up well, I usually recommend class D mono/single channel amps for driving subs (whether its 1 sub or 5)

lastly, that sub (if Im finding the right one on line...) shows that its RMS power rating is about 250W and that amp when bridged can only put out about 180W RMS. at that point you would only be giving the sub about 66% of what it wants, and you usually want to have the two units to match spec's up as close as possible.