Greg_E

Just FYI, if your car falls into the 14110 pcv program replacement, you may be screwed. Part of the procedure is to clean the throttle and manifold. If you car starts consuming oil, you may want to just go buy a new pcv and see if that fixes it.

You need to go to a different dealer for service!

I've had some of the same messing around that never shows up on an invoice or something the dealer breaks that then gets billed against warranty. Lots of crooks in the auto business, and somehow those crooks didn't get the axe in the 2009 dealer shutdowns while some good places were closed!

Why would anyone be looking to buy a complete light assembly if their core was in working, undamaged shape? Just a stupid policy that makes sure we all buy from overseas.

I don't think there are enough high milage 14s to know.

Ask them if they want to be a forum sponsor, then maybe we could set up a section just for them and it might increase business.

I've been told the excessive noise only happens when the oil is low. This of course is contrary to what a few of us notice on a daily basis, even after a fresh oil change.

Trust me, I know. I work at a college and we teach an automotive diagnostic and repair degree... They are never in the shop with hands on the cars! I think they do about 2 weeks work on basic mechanicals, all the rest is sitting at a bench with pegboards and electronics set up to run simulations. Our newest cars are CNG Hondas, most of the rest of the shop cars are 10 years old or older (obsolete in the north east due to rust). And the CNG cars haven't been in the shop in over a year, guess we aren't teaching alternative fuels anymore. But I have a lovely CNG pump on my end of the building, it's also one of the places where people go to smoke illegally. That pump could never leak or anything. Since the pump went in, it has never been used, that was more than 2 years ago.

But back to the TB, my dealers would go looking for a reason to stop a warranty claim, they get paid more for non-warranty work. And if they needed to do some engine warranty, that boot might be something that comes off, and it's pretty plain to see your mod. That said, warranty is only as good as your dealerships, so you might be fixing your car anyway. You certainly couldn't do a worse job than some dealers, too bad it is so hard to get some of the special tools and impossible to get firmware updates, might be able to make good money if an independent service place could make warranty repairs!

Typical full valve service is to pull the head, clean or replace valves (I always go for new valves when I do something like this), cut the valve seats, and bead blast the combustion chamber to clean everything. The only issue might be variable valve timing and the special tools that are required. It should be about what you were quoted, so I would ask them exactly what they are going to perform. Either way, there is a bunch of work to pull the head and put it back on, and probably a bunch of one time use bolts that need to be replaced.

I think you'll find that the inner fending plastic is easy to get out of the way, and then the lights should come out. Only special tool you might need is a very short screwdriver to get the innermost screw out.

I agree with gitsum, you got screwed! Why didn't the dealer explain that this would be a non-warranty repair before doing the "cleaning"? You could probably get the dealer on that technicality if you wanted to pursue it with you state's DMV and probably attorney general's office. But I think you would be better off with a bad survey when Chevy sends that to you, and just ditching the car since your dealer is kind of shady. The dealer issues seem to be adding up to causing Chevy some problems, something that marketing needs to think about.

Be prepared for the trade in value to be low, try ford and see what they will give you, but be aware that the 6 speed automatic in the Fiesta, Fusion, and maybe other models is still having growing pains. The manual shift seems good. The Ecoboost engines are also starting to show some problems with carbon buildup on the intake valves, something to do with direct injection not able to wash the valves clean from the pcv vapors, this is a developing story so take note. It apparently is a common issue with all direct injection cars, but the normal service (spray solvent down the intake while running the engine) seems to wreck the turbos on the ecoboost engines.

I created a new thread with the program code and pinned it, so I'm going to close this one.

http://chevysparkforum.com/topic/2351-oil-consumption-program-code-14110-pcv-valve/

A new program popped up today and Patsy from customer support sent me a pm. She said there is some problem on their computers and she doesn't have additional details yet, but will post those details when she gets the info. For now all we know is that it is program code 14110 covering oil consumption due to defective pcv.

I just got a PM from Patsy (Chevy support) saying that my car is in a group that has a program for defective pcv replacement. She said she was having computer issues and didn't have more info, but when I get that info I will post it for everyone and pin the thread.

Here is the thread

http://chevysparkforum.com/topic/2136-hvac-customer-satisfaction-program-end-april-30-2016/

If they did a full valve service on all cylinders their price isn't too bad, assuming they do it correctly.

Well number one reason is it will void the drive train warranty.

Call Chevy support for your area and see if they can help.

Assuming you car is the same, http://chevysparkforum.com/topic/355-foglight-install/

You can probably just remove the inner fender lining and unscrew the lights.

I'm sure this technique has been used successfully for decades, but I still don't think this is a good mod for anyone that isn't using this car for just racing purposes. Also a drill bit is a poor choice for cutting a counting sink, few screws have the same angle as most drill bits. I would suggest getting the correct countersink bit for the angle of the screw head. Cost is going to be about $5 to $10 unless you buy a carbide cutter and then it could be much more. http://www.use-enco.com has a good supply of these, and you can often find them on ebay for way less from some of the other machine tool discounters.

Did you read the code the ECU threw to see what it said? Could have been unrelated as a flow change like this shouldn't really cause to much grief with the system unless you exceeded the flow rate of the injectors (which I doubt you could if all the injectors are working properly).

On the Fiestas the rubber "boot" that connects the air filter housing to the TB has been shown to be a restriction of some kind. Fitting a harder and smooth boot has shown some gain, just wondering if some form of more rigid and smooth "conduit" between the airbox and the TB might give a benefit on the Spark.

Cutting that shaft could be a big problem down the road. On my motorcycle we have an issue where the shaft snaps in the middle and causes tps issues, you have effectively done the same. I can not recommend that other users do the same that you did. Even cutting the extra screw off the butterfly can be an issue because normally that extra is staked so it can not back out and get swallowed.

Wouldn't it be better to get a slightly larger TB and adapt it to the spark? Otherwise it looks like there is plenty of room to bore the TB out a few millimeters and have a new butterfly made.

What wrong with another Focus? Or maybe a Fiesta? That said a KIA Rio might be fun, or a Forte. A lot of people say Hyundai Elantra too.

At Ford the 2015 Fiestas are shipping, you might find a leftover 2014 for a deal, just be prepared for the hit you'll take on the trade for your Spark.

You can get a lawyer, but that will put Chevy into a won't talk to you mode, best to give Chevy support another call and see what they are willing to do. Probably you're going to just give up and pay, then go trade the car. Hopefully you will get a Chevy survey where you can tell them what happened on your last service visit and how that dealer is a crook.

Only 2LT had the projector style. Mine are a round style, but not sure if they are really round. Best thing would be to buy something that fits a 4 inch round and just trim to fit.

Do you have a case number from our reps here? If so you can call and talk to someone.

Again, my car was just in a shop for a pile of stuff, they never mentioned anything was due which is surprising because it should have had the brake fluid changed and I had some complaints about soft pedal.

I suggest you do not pay for this repair! If you do you have lost a bargaining tool. Also remember that basic warranty is 36000 miles, you are still under that level.

Bella does not have anything precut for any devices but their own. Best bet is to measure the lights and cut your own. Better it to just stick an oversized piece on the light and trim to fit.

It's just a sticker, figure out the largest diameter light and buy that size, then cut to fit the Spark lights. You might also want to find some Lamin-X film http://www.lamin-x.com/ and cut it to size.