Mr.tozzi

Nobody stocks anything for the spark. If you need something order online, it will take just as long to get and you wont need to call around for it. 

On 6/13/2019 at 5:26 AM, IA76 said:

Hi

 

I've just signed up as I'm thinking of purchasing a 2011 1.0 Chevy spark in the UK.

 

There doesn't seem to be any UK forums for this car which is making me hesitant in buying a Spark.

 

Is the US model mechanically the same as the UK?

 

Is there a workshop manual that would cover the UK version?

 

Is it a reliable car?

 

Thanks

In the US we only got the spark for the 2013 model year and forward with the 1.2l s-tech engine from 13-15,  and a remodel for the 2016 model with the 1.4 ecotec n/a.

The early 1.2s had pcv issues that were solved by a recall, the 13-15 has a problem witb the coolant reservoir which cracks at one of the fittings and some of the cvt cars seem to have problems with the transmission operating smoothly, (which in my opinion most of those are just picky drivers comming from more expensive vehicles)

I owned my 2014 for 3 years, bought it used and it was a dealership loaner car before i owned it.

Only repairs done were ac recharge on warranty, 1 ac flap cable under warranty, coolant reservoir cracked, and one battery.

I traded for a ford fiesta because I disliked driving automatic cars and i needed the trunk space.

Does not sound right to me, I would try swapping that coil to another cylinder to see if the problem follows it.

https://www.lkqonline.com/2013-Chevrolet-Spark-Transmission-or-Transaxle-Assembly/-hP3FDncnnD

Call their customer service and make sure it is the correct one before you purchase.

It should come out the same way as a airbag wheel, i dont see why gm would make a whole new steering wheel for a non airbag car. 

The car is 5 years old, gm will not do any service for free on a car that is out of warranty.

No dealer/mechanic will properly diagnose a car for free. 

Too busy, hood back to red, leave the black stripe, should probably follow that stripe on the roof and rear loose the black gas cap and door handles, needs some tire shine, red letters on tires are just silly. why is there an rs badge on it? 

Rivets shouldnt make you afraid of doing the job, they are not any harder to do than screws. A rivet tool is about $25-30, and you just need a metal drill bit to drill the old ones out.

You probably need to download the book for your model. We dont have the ltz trim in the usa so I'm no help.

Its probably safer to drop the whole cradle and split it out of the car

Any dealer or automotive locksmith should be able to get you the code and replace the lock. 

http://www.sonicownersforum.com/forum/factory-specifications/22315-error-codes-dash-where-odometer-usually.html

For best performance and fuel economy you should run what the manufacturer recommends. Running 85 octane fuel is not recommended. Read the book.

Seems like chevy designed a way to sell trunk handles for the spark just like door latches fortheir work vans. "Lets put a plastic piece that wears out super fast, and can only be sold with a new handle!" I lost count of how many times i have locked myself out of the back of my work van because of the pastic cable retainer breaking.

Damn.. a whole lot easier than a 2.3 mazda/ford that needs the whole intake manifold out to be replaced, 2hr job to replace a $7 part

Stick your head under the dash, find where the clicking noise comes from, take car to dealer and make the guy stick his head under the dash and point where the noise comes from. Otherwise they will replace your whole brake system, 3 tires and a transmission before they find out you just need a mew brake pedal or possibly a squirt of lithium grease.

Most features need to be enabled in the bcm to work, so just having a switch doesnt really add the function to your car if the computer doesn't know it exists. 

It is a trial and error thing, assuming all components are in place and the computer already has the function enabled then adding the switch would make it work. But if the function isnt enabled then you would have to find a dealer or shop that can enable it in your car, and most places are not very willing to do so due to the risk of turning your cars computer into a paperweight. 

Definetely not needed for the spark, its port injected  just Drop a little bottle of injector cleaner in the tank, wipe down your throttle body with throttle body cleaner, spray some maf cleaner on the maf sensor and make sure your air filter is clean.

Filled for life, change oil if a seal leaks.

That height is right on the money for the spark.

On 1/15/2019 at 10:01 AM, Bobby MSME said:

 

Thanks for your input, because I was thinking also of stretching the oil life beyond 100% with full synthetic which is what is installed currently.

 I have stretched oil life way beyond the reminder when I used to run amsoil xl. In that car the service interval was 5k i used to run 10k before changing. 

Now I follow the manufacturers recommendation until Im out of warranty. I usually change oil every 6months as i dont drive enough to hit mileage, if i wait for the oil reminder my oil will break apart before i change it. I also dont plan on keeping neither one of the cars that i have for a looooong time so I dont spend money on better oil.

Extreme dieting and removing all your interior trim and seats. 

10 hours ago, Thickems46 said:

The chevy spark needs a spare tire...giving me fix o flat and i had a blow out is unconstitutional i was traveling and for the money I pay i feel its required

A lot of newer cars dont have a spare. You can get a spare tire kit from a chevy aveo for around $100 and it fits the spark. 

10 hours ago, Thickems46 said:

I don't like this car I'm sure there are recalls but i bought ot used and i am having many problems..how do i contact chevy and check on the recalls ontop of not having a spare tire..i refuse to pay for any extra repair

Thats the gamble of buying a car be it used or new, some are good and some are complete piles. You can check for recalls here https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2v7mBRC1ARIsAAiw349hysY18HPNDiDNWiesD1dctaR078X21t_eGY-qhYtlWGvR75v2LG4aAuYEEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

7 hours ago, Guest Nicole said:

Hi everyone I had a torn cv boot and only replaced the boot, it didn't solve the clicking problem. How long can I drive before fully replacing it. #studentbudgetthings

You can drive it until it breaks completely. It could take 5 min and it could take 5 years.

Replacing the boot only, is bad medicine, the ripped boot is the cause of the clicking noise not a symptom.