NewSpark2015

2015 Back up camera?

37 posts in this topic

Thanks, now for the biggie,could you describe the routing you used to get the wiring from the back to the front and where did you tap into for the power?

I would be interested in seeing that, it must be tricky to get a neatly hidden wire up to the mirror.

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Hey Guy, Okay Here we go ...........The first thing you need to do is mount the camera, in order to do that you need to remove the whole number plate trim area (highlighted in red) to get to the bolts that remove the outside trim you will need to remove the inside plastic trim, dont yank it off because there is 1 single screw that holds this plastic trim in place, remove the single screw and then you can pull the trim off, once this is off there are 5-6 bolts that hold everything together, you can get to 4 of those bolts but the other 2 will require you to remove the rear wiper motor.

Next you remove the Barrel of lock and also the rear wiper, Once this is all done you can pull the outside trim off and you can mount the camera, you will need to also drill 1 hole or make an incision (see pic) so you can run the cables into the inside of the trim.

Once you have done this the hard part is snaking the wires to tap into the reverse light power which ultumately sends the signal to the mirror to power on and display the visual, , the spark does not have a lot of room to run wiring but i managed to run the wiring through the grommets that are positioned on the frame of the back tail area, there are 4 of them and they have plastic covers which pop off, to snake the wires down the reverse light i used a thin coathanger which eventually snaked the camera cables (positive and negative) to the reverse light where i tapped into the wires by simply stripping the wires as i did not want to cut any original wiring. a lot of patience is required for this as there is not much room in the spark for extra wiring.

The easy part is running the wiring to the front of the car to connect to the mirror, i removed all the plastic trim from the rear to the front this included the rear inside plastic trim which has one screw and then pops off , the plastic floor trim just pops off with a slight tug , the front floor pillar trim also has a screw and pop rivets then comes off, also remove the plastic trim under the steering wheel . once all the internal plastic trim was removed i ran the wiring along the sides and then up the side pillar which again comes off by puling on it gently. the wires then were tucked inside the internal roof lining until it reached the factory mirror.

The mirror also requires Power so i found a source of ignition power and also contant power and tapped into those wires along with a good earth/ ground point. the wires i tapped are underneath the steering wheel next to the fuse box, i used an electrical tester to find the the right wires....then basically test, double check and put everything back as if the car came out of the factory :)

I hope this helps a little bit and let me know if you have any Qs .

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Thanks, I just may have to try it when it warms up this spring.

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I saw this on Amazon. "SDB20055"

It looks like an OEM camera to integrate into the Spark to use existing screen etc.

Anybody want to try it for $30?

http://www.amazon.com/SDB-Chevrolet-Captiva-Rearview-Waterproof/dp/B00E95PEDA

SDB Car Backup Camera for Chevrolet Cruze Captiva Spark Rearview Camera with Waterproof Night Vision

61dofhyRT2L._SL1100_.jpg

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Interesting, but it is a camera only, and the listing states for a 2012 Spark, which I believe there are some small differences between the '12 AND '13+. If only it would fit the mylink, but no joy, it terminates into two female rca plugs, for use with most standard monitors. Now, if it had a Spark Mylink interface.........................

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I saw this on Amazon. "SDB20055"

It looks like an OEM camera to integrate into the Spark to use existing screen etc.

Anybody want to try it for $30?

http://www.amazon.com/SDB-Chevrolet-Captiva-Rearview-Waterproof/dp/B00E95PEDA

SDB Car Backup Camera for Chevrolet Cruze Captiva Spark Rearview Camera with Waterproof Night Vision

61dofhyRT2L._SL1100_.jpg

That just means it will fit our license plate light area. Remove old light and replace with this fixture.

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That just means it will fit our license plate light area. Remove old light and replace with this fixture.

Okay so I have a 2015 spark and I just finished this install. If you install to the right tag light there is a rubber grommet that you can access to feed your wires through so no drilling is required. The hardest part is accessing the power to the break lights through the hatch. I went the easier way and just took the tail light out and accessed it there. White write is your hot wire. It would be neater of you access these wires through the trunk side panel but I was afraid of seeing off the airbag back there. Then it's pretty simple after you gain power. Ruining the av Cable was easy as the rear side trim inside the car has one screw then just pops off and on. I tucked the cables under the middle panel without having to pop it off. Then I also easily tucked the wires under the front passenger trim without having to remove it. You can see how the other wires run into the center stack under the glove box area just follow those wires. If you have your radio out you should be able to easily see where you can feed your wires through to the stack. Once you have your wire into the stack it's pretty much plug and play you will have one power wire you will have to tap into at the radio it's pretty simple. Afterwards put everything back together and your done.

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Okay so I have a 2015 spark and I just finished this install. If you install to the right tag light there is a rubber grommet that you can access to feed your wires through so no drilling is required. The hardest part is accessing the power to the break lights through the hatch. I went the easier way and just took the tail light out and accessed it there. White write is your hot wire. It would be neater of you access these wires through the trunk side panel but I was afraid of seeing off the airbag back there. Then it's pretty simple after you gain power. Ruining the av Cable was easy as the rear side trim inside the car has one screw then just pops off and on. I tucked the cables under the middle panel without having to pop it off. Then I also easily tucked the wires under the front passenger trim without having to remove it. You can see how the other wires run into the center stack under the glove box area just follow those wires. If you have your radio out you should be able to easily see where you can feed your wires through to the stack. Once you have your wire into the stack it's pretty much plug and play you will have one power wire you will have to tap into at the radio it's pretty simple. Afterwards put everything back together and your done.

Nice work if you install an aftermarket head unit. We need a solution for the factory mylink.

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Yep, still lookin'

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Ok gentlemen, here we go, a tailor made interface for the Spark Mylink radio. A bit pricey, $299 for the interface, supply your own cameras, it handles front and rear. You can see it here. http://www.ceoutlook.com/2015/10/22/nav-tv-releases-camera-interfaces-for-chevys-with-an-extra-video-input/ . Here is a link to the company website, where you can place your order, :) they also show a pdf, and an operators manual. https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT626/gm-k-prg.html. Considering you can get a whole package today for under $100, admittedly, not the best, this seems to me to be a little rich, although it would be the ideal solution.

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Ok gentlemen, here we go, a tailor made interface for the Spark Mylink radio. A bit pricey, $299 for the interface, supply your own cameras, it handles front and rear. You can see it here. http://www.ceoutlook.com/2015/10/22/nav-tv-releases-camera-interfaces-for-chevys-with-an-extra-video-input/ . Here is a link to the company website, where you can place your order, :) they also show a pdf, and an operators manual. https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT626/gm-k-prg.html. Considering you can get a whole package today for under $100, admittedly, not the best, this seems to me to be a little rich, although it would be the ideal solution.

I might get it. I have seen a different interface that requires you to disassemble the radio, but this is plug and play.

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The Plug 'n' Play version offered on that site seems to be the best answer for those wanting to spend some fairly big bucks and a bit of work. Can't really see the advantage except for tight parking situations or if you have a bunch of kiddies running around your driveway.

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