2019 Spark LS speaker upgrade?

[XndeX 0]

I have been looking through the forums and have seen a couple do's and don'ts
When I got my spark it said 4 speakers and I assumed it was 2 in front and 2 in back. 
Well assuming that made an ass of me. The sound is okay at best but I know I might be able to do better. 
So I want to try and add rear door speakers and an underset sub. 
I know the radio will not recognize a new set of speakers so I'll just balance it out. 
I'll setup the fronts as mid and tweets, the rear as woofers and have the under seat sub. 
I'm not looking to go audiophile on this either maybe 50 watts per channel on the doors and 100 to 200 on a sub. 
Anything beyond that and I'll need soundproofing. Just looking for better sound not wanting to go deaf. 

From what I see best way to do this is with a thin 4 channel amp.
It has to do line level input so it will turn on when it senses a signal so no remote wire is needed. 
Also looking for a sub that will do the same. (for this do I just run a set of line level wires to the sub?) 
I'm going to replace the door speakers and pillar ones. And I'll add rear door speakers obviously. 

If I do the above and just run it from line level inputs it should work with no issues?
It should retain all the factory BS. Yes a stingy mechanic might void my warranty, but I'll hide the wires best I can.

Any thoughts on this?     

[michatron 2]

Please let us know how this turned out if you did add more speakers. I replaced the two front ones on my LS manual (manual door locks, windows, no rear speakers) today and I learned a few things:

• the crutchfield notes are worthless "remove door panel, replace speaker, now do the back" and the speaker wiring adapter is close to worthless as well, definitely test before reinstalling the door panel and consider just splicing the wires if it saves you any money.
• The crutchfield adapter needs some mods so have a saw ready
• Make sure if you have manual windows you remove the crank prior to starting the door panel removal, and watch a youtube video because there is a trick
• remove the pillar mirror trim before door trim as shown
• the vapor barrier in the door seems pretty pointless because this new car had quite a lot of water pooled inside both doors when I opened it.
• you should buy a foam kit for the speaker replacement or else it may end up sounding worse
• The foam kit is easy to modify to make fit inside the spark doors, despite the bracing inside

 

 

 

 

[XndeX 0]

Okay a few hiccups and notes for anyone adventurous enough to attempt this. 
1. The stock head unit does not have a 12+ ignition wire!
I had to go to the main fuse box and use an unused fuse location for my remote wire for my 2 amps. 
2. The front main speaker wires are in a cable bundle by the kick panels.
If you are careful you can splice into them and reuse the factory wire and not have to run wires through the doors.
3. Definitely recommend using a line out converter to RCA. Plenty of room under the center console to hide it and run wiring along it. 
4. As stated above the vapor barrier on the rear doors is a joke! I did not find any water in mine but once you loosen it up be prepared to use packing tape and or duct tape to hold it in place.
Otherwise your new speakers will vibrate it and drive you crazy. 

5. You need foam or a gasket material under the aftermarket speaker grills. I have to go back in and add some to each speaker and tighten some other loose items.
6. Be prepared for this to take some time.  This took over 12 hours for me to complete.  I installed 6 new speakers (2 new speakers in the rear doors that did not exist.) 
I put a 4 channel amp under the passenger seat and a under-seat subwoofer in the trunk area.  And I did punch 3 holes in the firewall. Ran 2 positive leads for amps and the remote wire from the fuse box. 

This did maintain all the factory BS minus one thing, once I turn the ignition off the sound IS off. The amps no longer receive a signal. Use to stay on until you opened the driver door. Not anymore. 
It's a very very small price to pay and IMHO well worth it. 

When I go in and redo the doors with some foam this weekend I'll try and take some pics.    

[XndeX 0]

Still need to cable manage some under the passenger seat. 
Other than that I'm happy the way it turned out. 
If you have Manual windows, Get the handle removal tool at your local auto parts store! 
It saves so much time! 

[Bruce Marks 2]

Ordered factory speakers with the stock mounts for the rears but the manual door handles are s real pain. Going to jump off the fronts to the rears and then just run an amp for my 12" sub.

[michatron 2]

I had no trouble at all with the manual door handles, just followed this video and it was a breeze: