Radio-Upgrade Guidance - Help/Info needed ( 90% done )

[KillaX 7]

Lots of threads out there regarding such topic. Figured I'd branch out since I'm going a little more specific.

I run a 2014 Chevy Spark, 1LT model, with the stock stereo ( MyLink touchscreen display ) I conacted Chevy's MyLink help center, and had their online chat bounce all over the place, asking a simple question. How many watts, per channel, does the stock stereo put out. No one knew, and suggested "Ask your dealership."

My friend has the base model spark, Manual, simple radio head. His stock speakers, sounded like garbage to my car running stock everything. The rears kicked light bass, it was much louder and cleaner. He recently did a kit-install ( i did 80% of the work for him ) which allows for an aftermarket stereo unit. His new system, running the stock speakers, now sounds a lot louder and more rich, like my "MyLink" stock unit.

So. This tells me the stock MyLink stereo unit, must put out more wattage, than the typical crappy stock-stereo unit in the base model. I was curious, as to what exactly..that wattage is.

Since budget/Money is not a cared-for-number. I'm a JL/JBL fan. That said, I run JBL GTO 4x6 in the rear ( 3-ohm so once you figure in the wire-run, its 4 ohm ) which are rated 45W RMS, 135W peak. Vice-Versa, I run similar ( but 4" ) in the front.

Everything works happily and sounds crazy-outstanding-improvement from the stock speakers, on the stock mylink system. Voices and all, sound very..very sharp. However, I've consider wondering if the stock amp is rated possibly, 50W a side, or 25W a channel, is it worth the hassle of looking into options ive seen people take, like the "LC7i" deal, seen some do a 4-channel amp, such as the PBR300x4.

Right now I'm pretty happy with the system. But theres those few days where I enjoy having a sub turned up loud for a short-bit, and kinda wish my front/rears actually put out enough to balance things out.

In the rear. I currently run a JL-Audio sub+amp+box all-together unit. 400W, 0.25ohm 10" sub. The box JUST fits in the spare-tire area of the back. Giving me 100% full usable trunk space, while allowing me to have a far-overkill sub. I dont even push this sub, and using a sub-knob, it has no problems getting to the point where its almost too much, Like..I wouldnt drive it it, that loud, as your vision blurs a little due to how hard it hits. Yet to run it hard, as 30+ mins of driving to work, the amp is cool to the touch. Despite testing it at 'my' preferred limit. Such a small car, lets that sub feel like your running a dual 10" setup. Its just insane.

So. Nutshell review.

-- How many watts/channel does MyLink feed front/rears?
-- If I want to up-thi wattage. I assume its best to avoid aftermarket mods that require replacing the entire MyLink unit, by getting a 4-channel amp.
* I assume with this setup, I set my vol, then adjust the amp accordingly.

Below, is how it fits in the spare-tire area. I'll be laser cutting 1/2" plywood to go over the speaker/sides so its nice and flush, and will have a open area for the speaker/port to breath.


Subwoofer gain control and Subwoofer power, for those passengers that can't tolerate a sub at any volume.

Currently, It's just chucked in the rear taking up space, under-going "trial" period. Loving it, too much.



I run 8-awg, 50A ( at the battery ) fused wire, fully hidden in the car. Only 2" is exposed when a wire goes under the floor mats in the rear. passenger area. This then connects to a Power block, which splits it into 30A-Fused output A ( Subwoofer amp ) and 50A-Fused output B ( LiPo Charger for RC hobby ) Since the RC charger self-limits at 40A. Obviously, RC charging is done while at a field, Not driving, and not playing music. So, No worries having 40A charger + 30A sub on the same line, Using just one or the other. I get my new rears Friday ( stock right now ). Hoping that helps balance stuff, as right now, when the sub is off, the sound is almost all front. Hoping the new rears will fill the cabinet space. Then I can go about sub level tuning from there. Or if MyLink cant push any watts ( say only 10 ) I need options..

PS: I am a EDM music listener. And I am more picky about having decent-level sub, and very pure..rich sounding sub. Kicker subs for example..can be loud..but i cant stand the lack of quality in the actual tones. So, having a sub that can be WAY too much, due to the size of the car, allows me to say "I really love how things sound!!!" I'm just trying to match actual music, to the sub loudness. Tho, perhaps I just need to hit the volume up higher. Turning the sub down at the same time. Vol 21 seems to lately be my happy place while highway driving.

[bluer101 241]

I believe the stock wattage is around 10 watts per channel.

I run mine around 20 on the volume depending on source. Either you need to turn down the bass the louder you go or get an amp for your speakers so they can keep up with the sub.

[KillaX 7]

I assume the base model, must be like 5W or something. When i first got my 1LT, me and my friend had 100% stock equipment. He told me the rears speakers are the same in the base model and 1LT. But my car sounded a LOT louder, and the rears actually had some thudding bass to them, where his has absolutely nothing.

It was very clear, hands down, that the 1LT defiantly had more wattage than the base model spark. After listening to mine for awhile, we went back to his and were like holy crap...this is horrible..how do you even listen to this?

Thats why i was curious. I knew the MyLink has more wattage than the base..and was trying to figure out more details heh

Edited August 6, 2015 by KillaX

[bluer101 241]

I searched today and found really nothing.

I have been thinking of upgrading the speakers again with amp to drive them. Just need to figure out if I want to make that leap.

[KillaX 7]

Yeah. I rather keep things stock. We went through the massive hassle on my friend's spark, removing the headunit, wire stripping, and so forth. I rather like the looks of the stock head-unit, the touch screen interface, and would like to keep all the controls over the vehicle, at hand. So, I'm looking to avoid ripping the unit out. I understand, If I go with an amp, I will still have to rip things out, to cut wires, to basically amp the MyLink system, before the speakers. Which is okay, I guess. A bit of work. But in the end, the car will look/run normally.

I guess I need to do a little research. As I'm not a car audio nut when it comes to knowing whats good/bad. Not even sure what all is needed for amping the stock stereo. Lots of pros/cons. Lots of mini risks. It takes a lot of pulling force to get those panels off..

Edit -- Progression as of 8-9-2015
Got new JBLs, As expected they didn't fit the custom mount the spark uses. I also noted the stock speakers are shorter, and wider, than a JBL 4x6 by far. So, I ended up building an adapter plate. All 8 screws fit perfectly, Good to go. They def. sound a ton better. Stock VS JBL: Stock was very bass heavy, no mids, no treb. JBL its still stiff, but mostly mids/trebs. The sub fills in the bass anyways. For fun, I put them both in, rear-only sound, and did full volume to them, well, at least 40. They were loud..too loud.., but very clear and no distortion at all. +12 bass gain got them 'booming' and probably helped loosen them up a bit. Cant distort them at all, which is great.

See the Project here:
http://imgur.com/a/XUJDf

Edited August 9, 2015 by KillaX

[KillaX 7]

( Edited to clean up / details )

New JBL-GTO 4" speakers installed in the front. Dynamat on all mating surafaces ( Grill/cover as well ) Effortlessly drop-and-play.

Copper+Silver Battery Lugs ( Bought Seperate ) with screw-on tops, allowing for very easy terminal-connectors for audio gear.

Terminal Connections with the sparks horribly pathetic clamps


Battery installed, secured, tight.



So the battery was a trip. Everything was going great. Took the old one out. Dropped the new one in. Installed the battery hold-down, awesome awesome. Not a single problem, Nice and tight. Then put the negative terminal clamp on. It was a tight fit, but it did go on, and with some loving tap-tap-rubber hammer work, assured that thing is on there very tight and secured. The positive terminal? Was a hassle. I think the clamp sprung open. Kept sliding off the terminal. Eventually i figured its because i wasnt pushing it all the way down, because it was too 'tight'. finally got it on, again with loving taps of a rubber hammer to ease things in. Once seated, tryed pulling/twisting on it hard. Dead solid.

These are the absolute WORST clamps i have ever seen in my life, for a car battery. What ever happen to the side-screw wrench-down-as-hard-as-you-want super tight clamps. Really. what the heck are these things. A beveled nut pulling a thin casted bracket over? really? Im amazed the clamps dont burn up honestly with how thin they are.

Regaurdless. The battery was a very simple drop-plug-play. Took the cap off my car ( just running amp/battery ) and full blasting the sub, zero headlight dimming. Volt meter shows the voltage during had bass hits, doesnt even drop .5V, stays around 13.8-14.5 the entire time. The battery is 40A-Hour as compared to the 50A-Hour of the stock battery. So, no additional alternator strain. The battery is rated 9mOhm, made for 1200W audio systems. 1150 Cranking amps, vs the spark's 375 stock battery.

Not sure if it works the same. but in the RC world, a battery with lower mOhm ( higher current rating ) can push more amp-demand, with less voltage sag. The stock battery dipped a LOT during sub-hits. The lights drastically dimmed since im moving a 400W 0.25ohm sub. But now. Even with brights on, no effect. Loving it.

Next to-do is getting a larger 8awg ring terminal for the battery. and cutting the wire so the 50A fuse is literally right-at the battery.

Edited August 23, 2015 by KillaX