TheDrip

I never really read Consumer Reports, but I actively avoid their opinions after they lost two lawsuits to GM. Trackers don't magically flip over on highway on-ramps (doctored vehicle/test), and 90s chevy pickups with saddle tanks don't explode like a bomb in side impact collisions (doctored vehicle/test).

How can you take a review company seriously after they've been caught falsifying test results and rigging their tests for the outcome they want?

I wanted a green 1LS stick. Waited a week to have on brought from about 250 miles away. Multiple dealers wouldn't transfer theirs, too effective as a floor model.

I am at 33 lifetime of 3500 miles. I do have to blame it on the driver though. I like to see how often I can make the traction control light flash on my way to work.

Try driving away. Mine doesn't get obnoxious until its moving.

My car was delivered at 37psi. on an 95 degree day. I've seen as low as 29psi in 14 degree weather now. Rule of thumb is 1-1.5psi per 10 degree drop. Nitrogen should reduce that, but it still happens.

The inflation rating on the tire is max inflation, not suggested inflation. Use the car's suggested pressure.

Its still speculation at this point. I know from a Chevy tech that a replacement radio has to be programmed straight from GM, but he was no9t clear on what was being programmed. Its possible that a radio from another car would work, as it had already been programmed, depending what information is put into it.

If someone in Eastern TN or North GA with an LT car was willing, I would pop their radio out and plug it into my car, and see if everything (or anything) works. Then put it all back, of course.

It would give us a final answer on if a used radio is plug and play or not.

I find that my absolute smoothest shifts happen at < 2000 rpm. 1800rpm, shift, repeats

1st gear doesnt even get me halfway across an intersection. drives super smooth this way. I only use 1st gear to get barely rolling, into 2nd, then drive 'normal' from there.

To my understanding, the bluetooth protocol used for streaming music in our cars is unidirectional. The phone can send music to the car, but the car can't send commands to the phone. Volume/Mute are local functions performed on the stereo itself, and not on the phone. Play/pause/skip would be functions the phone needs to do, and there is no way of sending the commands from the car to the phone.

I'm sure someone will either call me an idiot because I'm wrong, or correct me politely, or (there is a very slim chance of this one) verify that I am correct.

The GM mats are a 3/8 inch thick piece of rubber with texturing and molding. They will keep light mud/snow from your shoes off the carpet.

The Weathertek liners are a shaped plastic tray, that matches the contours of the floor, sides, firewall and seat base. They form a 'bowl' to hold a sizeable volume of liquid. You could spill a super ultra mega gulp drink (or two) into the floorboard, and it would be contained in the liner.

The notable lacking area of the GM mats, is that they do not cover the dead pedal foot rest area for your left foot. The weatherteks do.

The fuel sock is approx 1/2" off the bottom of the tank. It is true that sediment will drop out of the gasoline and settle to the bottom. It's also true that when you run real low on fuel (fuel light on, or even under 1/4 tank), two things happen.

First the sloshing of the gasoline as you drive and the gas pouring in from the return line mix up the fuel and kick up that sediment which then gets sucked up. Its less of an issue with a full tank as there is significantly less sloshing. The crud gets filtered out, but it leads to needing fuel filters more often.

Second, the fuel pump can run warm as it relies on the gasoline for cooling. The first pump-in-tank cars had issues with people who habitually run the gas run low killing fuel pumps from overheating.

Neither effect explains the OP's stumbling problem, but they should give us all reason to not run our tanks right down to the last bar.

If it was a dealer demo car, there are a lot of hours idling, a lot of moving it around the lot, and a lot of slow speed drives around the block. It certainly adds up to poor average mileage.

If someone got in the car and reset the avg mpg meter, and the car hasnt been driven except idled and around the lot since, I could see a 17mpg reading making sense.

Has anyone successfully done this upgrade? Wondering if its totally plug and play, or if you need the dealer to program the bcm to make it work.

I have the chevy rubber mats in my spark, and weathertechs in my mini. The chevy mats are just a flat rubber mat with some texturing, the weathertechs will basically hold 3" of water. If you want a mat to keep your feet off the carpet, the gm rubber is great. If you want a mat to keep monkey poo (my wife is a zookeeper, and drives the mini) and other nasties completely contained, get the weathertech

I've seen the same phenomenon in every vehicle I've owned. People in the car = better fuel mileage. Something to do with driving "nicer" when my wife is in the car ready to get on me for driving too fast/tailgating/taking off at lights/spilling her coffee.

I should say I've seen the phenomenon of saving gas with more people in the car with select people in the car. They all seem to be women. Mom, sister, girlfriends, wife.... this has been going on for years.

I wholesale tires, wheels and accessories. Lugnuts, weights, bead lube, patches. All that type of product. No I can't get you a deal

My wife and her sisters have named all their cars since highschool after fairy tale/disney characters. I didn't have my Spark for 24 hours before it was dubbed Jiminy Cricket.