apMechorse

OK, as of 10/14 finally fixed. Dealer downloaded the data from BCM and uploaded it to GM. GM de-compiled the program and found an error in it. Apparently the rear defroster and the Battery Saver relay utilize the same timer and since the rear defroster shuts off automatically when the car is turned off, they should never both be active at the same time. The error in the program tripped the battery saver circuit when the defroster button was pushed, and since both would be active in that instance, it blew out the relay, effectively killing the radio/onstar/turn signal & warning

Appointment tomorrow to have them look into it. Will update. OK, turns out that the BCM calibration file that was installed to allow my LS to use the GM fog lights screws with the Battery Saver relay settings. For whatever reason, when the defroster button is pressed, it not only trips the defroster relay, but also the battery saver relay, turning the radio off, and effectively frying the relay. Service manager says that the Chevy Tech Support person he was talking to immediately knew what was happening and what the cause was, but at the same time they didn't want to admit that the

So I'm driving to work this morning I press the rear defrost button for the first time this year, and my radio went dead. I don't mean that it just shut off, I mean no lights on the display and the overhead OnStar panel went out. Not only that but the defroster light came on but the defroster did not work. Relay does not click, and no voltage at the rear window connectors. All fuses and relays are all good. All electrical connections are solid. The only electrical changes to my car since the last time I used the rear defroster was the installation of the GM fog light kit, and the dealer flashe

No one? Really? How is this only happening to my car....

Hey all! I've got a 2014 LS and have replaced the front and rear turn signals with Sylvania ZEVO 7443 (rear) and 7443NA (7444 cross reference equivalent; front) and tapped in a 6 Ohm load resistor (equalizer) to the Black and Red wires at the front bulb assembly. Resistor is attached in parallel to the socket, just as every single instructional video says to do, and is physically tapped into the wire, not using those cheesy wire taps. Electrical connection is solid, has continuity and resistance (with the bulb removed) still reads 6.6 Ohms. Turn signal still has Hyper Flash. Any other sugges