A/C Recirculate flap

[Greg_E 211]

If you have the fan on position 4 you will hear the different positions. After it gets worse you can hear the clicking it makes as the motor goes past a stop.

[Smikster 10]

mine has started doing this more then every now and then, i'm sure it will be the next recall.

[bluer101 241]

I bet more people have this issue but don't realize it.

[Greg_E 211]

When they start hearing the loud clicking, they'll know the have a problem.

[bluer101 241]

I noticed mine because I always leave in in recirculate. So when I turned the Spark off and it was quite you can hear it moving and clicking. Then when I started the Spark you would hear it going back into recirculate.

[CurtisA 1]

I had this issue. I didn't notice it until I shut the car off after drives. I have the same whining clicking sound when recirculate is on and the flap is trying to engage or disengage. I brought this up the last time I was at the dealer, they took a look and noticed that it was in fact doing what I said it was doing. They offered to look further into it when I have time to leave the car with them for a day or so. I guess in order for the dealer to talk to GM Tech's about the car it has to actually be in the shop. The one good laugh I got was, "Well we aren't sure if this is common among the Spark's or an actual issue, we won't be able to tell until we look at another Spark or call GM". I'm sure it's normal, no big deal lol

[CClick815 0]

I'm having the same issue with an added bonus. I found my Recirculate flap busted off and sitting on top of the cabin filter. It looks like the jerking motions busted the housing the motor connects to.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/c3zpb1iywlvh9df/20140504_164455%5B1%5D.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y59e1x6a9g00av9/20140504_164449%5B1%5D.jpg

Edited May 4, 2014 by CClick815

[Greg_E 211]

Then they should have no problem identifying the issue and fixing it when you bring it in for warranty.

[bluer101 241]

I'm having the same issue with an added bonus. I found my Recirculate flap busted off and sitting on top of the cabin filter. It looks like the jerking motions busted the housing the motor connects to.

.jpg]https://www.dropbox.com/s/c3zpb1iywlvh9df/20140504_164455[1].jpg

.jpg]https://www.dropbox.com/s/y59e1x6a9g00av9/20140504_164449[1].jpg

Holy crap!

I'm glad I unplugged mine a year ago in permanent recirculate. I have not gotten mine fixed yet. Please let us know what parts they replace.

Greg, you have not had yours done yet?

[Gossamer 50]

What? It's working as designed!

[Classing 6]

Mine goes in on Friday for the recirc flap issue.

[bluer101 241]

Mine goes in on Friday for the recirc flap issue.

Mine is still disconnected so please report back.

[flipfew 0]

hey guys new to the forum but I'm having the same exact problem and I got a theory!

drop my car off Thursday for the AC recall stuff new sensor programming excetera and the PCV valve, picked it up Friday and as soon as I got home and stop the car I heard the thunk thunk same clunking sound of the recirculating valve flipping back and forth.

did you guys have the same recall stuff done? I almost guarantee it somehow related to them going inside and changing stuff. I'm wondering if maybe the recirculate flap was supposed to be in a certain position when they disconnected and now It can't find 0 or something? I'm going back tomorrow to the dealership to get some answers.

Edited September 15, 2014 by flipfew

[jibb3r 29]

Funny that this came up again. Perfect timing.
My 'recirculate' was working fine when I left on Friday, I hit it several times, just to entertain myself while driving alone. Sunday, I hit the button to get "colder" A/C in the Florida heat; My button is dead. It doesn't light up at all, doesn't blow harder, nothing. I haven't looked into it, but that wouldn't have it's own fuse, right?

[bluer101 241]

I was the first person to report the flap issue. I though for a while I was the only one. This is now almost 2 years ago way before there was ever a AC fix.

I have not had mine looked at or any ac fix yet. I'm going in for my second oil change and PVC valve.

I have had my flap wire harness disconnected in the recirculate mode for well over a year now.

So given that I believe it has nothing to do with the ac recall/fix.

Even with my wire disconnected the recirculate light still lights up when pushed or off when off.

[Chevrolet Customer Care 25]

hey guys new to the forum but I'm having the same exact problem and I got a theory!

drop my car off Thursday for the AC recall stuff new sensor programming excetera and the PCV valve, picked it up Friday and as soon as I got home and stop the car I heard the thunk thunk same clunking sound of the recirculating valve flipping back and forth.

did you guys have the same recall stuff done? I almost guarantee it somehow related to them going inside and changing stuff. I'm wondering if maybe the recirculate flap was supposed to be in a certain position when they disconnected and now It can't find 0 or something? I'm going back tomorrow to the dealership to get some answers.

Hi flipfew,

Sorry you've experienced this concern. I see that you mentioned you'd be going back to the dealership. Please keep us posted on your visit!

Andraya (assisting Kristen)

Chevrolet Customer Care

[bluer101 241]

Still have mine disconnected in recirculate mode.

I bought a new actuator to see if it's defective. Guess what, still does the same crap. I think there has to be a relearn process from the dealers computer.

I need to swing by the dealer to get my AC still fixed, both top and bottom drivers seat covers replaced due to cracking and seam splits, and relearn the recirculate flap. My warranty runs out in January and I only have 15000 miles for this crap to be going wrong.

I have been looking at the 2016 spark and waiting to see in person. If the wheel bolt pattern is the same I might trade in. I know it's 4 lug but might be different spacing.

[Ray Dockrey 97]

I am seriously thinking about getting rid of mine next summer. Just not worth the frustration between the car and the clueless dealers.

[bluer101 241]

I visited my dealer today and the service manager is in tomorrow. I asked my sales person about the 2016 and he took me to the 2015, really?

[Gossamer 50]

From what I read online, the 2016 Spark's debut has been pushed back to January 2016.

Not a good sign!

[Retired old Gearhead 201]

I have had the recirculate flap cycling issue since about the first 10Kmi and found the air comes from outside no matter what the position of the switch. AC is cold enough so I just leave it off since no dealer, forum or anyone seems to know the cause and I could care les as long as the car is cool enough. The car was cheap, we paid in cash and never thought we would get more than 50Kmi out of it before issues popped up. Now past 50Kmi, no real issues so we just drive it and sell it after the first $300 expense outside of normal like brakes or tires pops up. I would actually buy another one if we make it to 70Kmi without issues, simply because it is the small second car we need.

[bluer101 241]

I went to the dealer today and going to drop it off later or on Monday. I'm going to take off my aftermarket wheels and put the factories back on.

Another thing I found out and it's been going on for awhile. I have been getting poor mileage and noticed when I get out of my spark the rear wheels would back a squeak sound like the e brake was lightly on. Well I jacked up the rear and tried spinning the rear wheels. I have to put lots of force to make them spin. It seems like the e brake is seized on and I don't ever use it. The only time I use it is for a tire rotation.

So I have these issues:

AC fix was never never finished and needs to have BCM update and compressor replaced.

Recirculate flap needs recalibration since the new one did not solve the issue.

Both drivers seat covers need replacing ( back and bottom) due to splits and seam coming apart.

Now the rear brake issue too.

Not bad for only 15000 miles on her.

[bluer101 241]

Update.

Rear brake cylinders were replaced. They had rust under the dust caps and we're getting stuck on. Now back to normal. I spun the rear wheels while on their lift.

Seat covers replaced. They have some lumps and uneven areas but might work out after being on for a while and in the sun and heat, we will see.

AC recall, all they did was reconnect the wire that was never connected. But I connected it once before and made no difference. Asked about the BCM update that was never done so the Spark knows it's there. Then the compressor whine they said it's fine. I told the tech you have to wait 10-40 minutes after shut off. I got a response of oh, I thought it was just turning the AC off. It was written right on the work order what and when it happens. Does anyone read anything. So still not fixed, I could of connected it without dealer run around. Plus, they are refusing to replace the compressor or do an update because working as designed BS.

Now on to the recirculate flap dance. They said there is no calibration process. Ordered a new actuator even after telling them I already tried that. Then the proceeded to replace the whole AC control panel per GM tech link hotline. Guess what, still does it. GM hotline has no clue and said they have never heard of this, WHAT???

We have a handful of people right here that have had the issue and find it hard to believe we are the only ones.

Well, really not happy at this point anymore. If they can't get this corrected, do the BCM update, and replace my compressor that I have many videos of the noise happening every time I think I'm done with Chevy!!!!

I asked the service manager what's the big deal and just replace it. He gave my a BS answer that if Chevy tests it when it goes back and it's fine they don't get paid. I think he thinks I was born yesterday.

Oh, also no one in the service department calls with any updates and have to swing by to find out what the heck is happening. Also PM'ed Patsy G a few days ago and seems like no one from Customer Care is around anymore.

[WaltK 305]

Typical run around, it seems the Chevy dealers are schooled in these tactics, more so than on actual repairs. I can't blame you for being pissed, you have been more than patient with these issues. I had a great dealership, but they sold out to a large group, so I don't know what service will be like with these guys. I was seriously waiting for the '16s to come out, and have a look, and possibly buy one, now I am having second thoughts. These cars also don't hold any value at all, massive hits on trade in value. I would suggest you call the customer service # that is in the owners manual, and possibly they will follow through for you. Fortunately, it seems that I have one of the good Sparks, up to this point anyway, but it is discouraging reading all the runarounds going on at the Chevy dealerships. Try the 800#, it can't hurt.

[Retired old Gearhead 201]

As I mentioned in an earlier post on your 'Brakes Seized" topic...the parts on this car, that on most other cars are, to a degee, rust protected with a galvinized or other coating that seem to not apply to the Spark. One member, 'Greg_E' posted pictures of his badly rusted brakes & exhaust tubing ( http://chevysparkforum.com/topic/848-rust/?hl=rust ) after one winter in the 'salt belt' of the NorthEast US.

We live in the Miami area, so no salt but very humid and I have noticed rust on exterior parts that were excessive given the car was only a few months out of the factory. This led me to examine those parts as well as hidden parts such as rear brake components. What i did was use my proven method of rust control on parts that have rubber seals or other parts that cannot be exposed to oil or grease. For example, the rear brake components had the (minor at the time) rust removed with a soft steel brush and sprayed all components except the brake friction parts with 'Turtle' tire shine that I have been using for years on my boat and other cars to prevent rust without harming rubber or electonics. I use the same product on the engine compartment area and front brake calipers and exterior of the rear brake drums. The exhaust from front to back I use a 'white grease' spray that will not burn off.

After almost three years and over 50Kmi there is no rust to be seen on any metal or 'whitish' oxidation on aluminum parts such as front calipers and exterior engine components. The front calipers and rear brake drums are totally rust free and still a silver color. The only parts that appear to be protected are the brake and fuel lines that seem to have a brownish anodized coating...still sprayed them as I was unsure.

When I had the tires replaced earlier this year and inspected the rear brake assembly...dusty, but zero rust anywhere. The mechanic asked if I had the brake assembly replaced and was surprized when I told him they were all original parts that had been sprayed with the tire shine..."well that's something new" he said.

You may think that living in Miami we don't have a big rust issue. Well not only is it humid, but we live right on the ocean with the prevailing winds coming from the ocean and salty air, even my garden tools rust quickly. Even though I use the "Turtle®" tire shine, I am sure other brands would work equally well. Only the 'super' or 'ultra' shine products are to be avoided as they leave a more thick and greasy coating. Use it on my boat engine and aluminum, chrome and brass fittings as well as exposed wood such as railings and door frames but not the deck as the spray product contains a form of silicone. I dont work for Turtle®, in fact I don't work at all... I hope some get a benefit from my experience...and that is my usual long ramble for today. {]:-(||)

Update.

Rear brake cylinders were replaced. They had rust under the dust caps and we're getting stuck on. Now back to normal. I spun the rear wheels while on their lift.