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First of all, I would like to apologize that I do not have any photos of the install. My camera was missing and my phone was dead during the install. However, this kit has some great photos to help explain it.

NOTE:The install guide that comes with the intake has a few errors in it (I will mark where the errors are).

I would also recommend ordering the "Hydroshield" if its available (it is really just a sleeve that goes over the filter that blocks water and allows the filter to still breathe).

Anyway before you begin make sure you have the following:

Contents: (Copied from instructions)

1- 1pc. cold air intake (pipe)

1- 2.75" web/nano dry filter (#1010)

1- 2.25" straight hose (#3035)

2- Power Bands #036 (#4008)

2- M4 buttons head screws (#6047)

1- M6 vibra-mount (#6020)

2- M6 flange nuts (#6002)

1- M6 Washers (#6010)

1- Hydroshield cover (OPTIONAL PART)

1- 4 Page Instruction manual

-Instructions

Figure 3:

"Stock box shown"

Figure 4:
"Removal of front bumper cover is necessary. Remove top and bottom screws of bumper cover and side screw under head light near fender line."

NOTE: When we installed this intake, we took everything off (screws, push tabs, etc.). However we did not take the bumper completely off, we only took it half off (I would recommend taking it off completely though). Also, if you have fog lights installed make sure you unplug the harnesses for them, you have a slight bit of space to do it with. For detailed instructions on the bumper removal, I would go to Greg_E's post on his fog light install. Scroll down a bit until you get to the bumper removal steps:

http://chevysparkforum.com/index.php?/topic/355-foglight-install/

Figure 5:

"With a 10MM socket and ratchet, loosen the 3 screws holding in the stock air box."

Instruction booklet shows them clearly

Figure 6:

"Loosen the screw holding in the factory snorkel. Remove push clip also."

Instruction booklet shows this step clearly.

Figure 7:

STEP ONE:

"Disconnect the MAF sensor harness."
STEP TWO:
"Pull back the crank case line from the fitting on intake tube."

Figure 8:

Loosen the clamp on the throttle body using a 7mm nut driver.

NOTE: I believe this was the other step that was incorrect. I think we ended up using a 7/32 socket.

Figure 9:

"Pull back the intake tube from the throttle body."

Figure 10:

(Shows the stock air box removed)

Figure 11:
"Loosen the 2 screws holding in the resonator box."

Figure 12:
"Carefully remove the resonator box from the vehicle."

Figure 13:
"Locate the harness clip connected on the frame near the head light and remove, this will be used for the vibra mount."
NOTE: This took us awhile to actually locate. Look for a rectangular white/cream colored relay box with a metal clip on it. The harness clip is right next to it. Be SUPER careful when removing this. We used wire cutters to very carefully break the clip. The instructions don't show this step well seeing it is black and white. If you can find that relay box thing you will find the clip.

Figure 14:
"Now install the vibra mount to the hole."

The vibra mount is the big cylinder with the 2 screws on each end.

Figure 15:

"Secure the back of the mount using the M6 nut."

Figure 16:

"Now secure the vibra mount and tighten."

Figure 17:

STEP ONE:

"Loosen the screws holding the MAF sensor using a 7mm socket or nut driver."
STEP TWO:
"Remove the MAF sensor."

NOTE: I believe this was the other step that was incorrect. I think we ended up using a 7/32 socket.

Figure 18:
STEP ONE:

Install the MAF sensor into the new intake tube.

STEP TWO:

Secure and tighten using the provided M4 button head screws.

Figure 19:
"Now install the 2 - 1/4" hose to the throttle body with the clamps provided. Tighten the clamp on the throttle body only!"

Figure 20:
"Install the intake tube into vehicle and position it to the throttle body and bracket for the vibra mount."

Figure 21:

"Secure the bracket using a M6 nut and fender washer. Do NOT tighten."

Figure 22:

"Now position for best fit. Tighten using a 8mm nut driver."

Figure 23:
"Now tighten the vibra mount with a 10mm wrench."

Figure 24:
"Install the air filter to the intake tube. Use a 8mm nut driver"

OPTIONAL: If you ordered the Hydroshield, put it on also.

Figure 25:

"Reconnect the MAF sensor harness."

Figure 26:

"Secure the crank case line to the fitting on the intake tube using a the factory clamp."

Figure 27:

"Make sure everything is tightened. Position for best possible fit. Reinstall the bumper cover."

Figure 28:
"Congratulations! You have just installed this intake system. Check the alignment occasionally to make sure everything is still tight."

Other notes:
I would like to add however that this intake is rather loud upon acceleration, quiet at constant speeds. I also did have a check engine light after installation, it vanished after I put gas in the car so it might of been due to a loose gas cap or something because after I fueled up it vanished. Additionally, keep a eye on the filter after car washes, the hydroshield seems to do its job but at the car wash I use it was pretty wet. Normal wet roads didn't seem to affect it any, so just keep a eye on that as well.


post-589-0-91554900-1367673544_thumb.jpg

Edited by Hobo1
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It could be the whole placebo effect, but it seemed to have a tiny bit of extra oompf. It could also just be my imagination. It does look great and sounds as good as it looks. Now if I could only get a exhaust kit on it that wouldn't void the warranty lol!

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Hopefully, someone who has access to a dyno can post before and after results on the cai installation. Cai isn't a mod I'm interested in, but rostra cruise control and fog light mod is on my list. Congratulations on the installation! Many people love the sound of cai.

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Other than larger diameter pipes and more freely flowing filter, you shouldn't see much difference. The stock intake pulls high pressure air from the unused portion of the radiator cutout, so you might actually lose performance at speed.

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FYI...just installed the black Injen CAI and was able to install without removing the bumper. I removed the grommets from the front half of the plastic wheel housing and 2 screws that attach under the bumper and dropped the wheel housing to remove the stock resonator and install the new filter. I cranked the wheel so the tire was facing outward & it provided enough room for the install.

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FYI...just installed the black Injen CAI and was able to install without removing the bumper. I removed the grommets from the front half of the plastic wheel housing and 2 screws that attach under the bumper and dropped the wheel housing to remove the stock resonator and install the new filter. I cranked the wheel so the tire was facing outward & it provided enough room for the install.

I thought you could do that. I'm also pretty sure you could do that for the fog light install.

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Nope, fog lights require removing the bumper cover to run the wiring harness over to the passenger side, also to make the connections to the and routing around the relay box. I tried and it would not work out well. Considering what it takes to get the cover off, having the extra working space is very nice.

You do just go into the fender well to change the lamps.

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Sweet finally a picture of it. Im not surprised is doesnt make much more power. These things have a HOOGE filter and the rest of the intake is not restrictive at all...plus its pressure fed like greg said.

Funny a few people said about a center twin outlet exhaust. That was my initial plan with ours...but I chose to try to improve the aero with a diffuser so im stuck with one outlet.

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