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thismarks

2017 1.4L Spark LS Turbo project

50 posts in this topic

Finished the temporary warm air intake and the car sounds amazing now and is more responsive.  I can't wait to get the turbo installed! I did run into a fuel running lean code after gassing it pretty hard. I reset the code with Torque app and my Bluetooth OBD2 module. The temps look decent (192° after hours of driving) with the new fans hooked up but I still have my bumper off. Getting tons of looks and I was asked to attend a car event after stopping at Pepboys to pick up a breather filter for my pcv and crankcase vents ( temporary solution until the turbo gets installed and my check valves are installed). Haven't had a lean code since the reset so, I am taking it easy on the car.

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Posted (edited)

Just romped on the car a bit to see if the code would reappear, since it doesn't pop up during normal driving. Sure enough, the same lean condition code popped back up. This may have something to do with the pcv valve being vented into a breather but, I don't really think that is the case. It seems the computer is just not set up to adjust for the amount of air within programmed tolerances. I cleared the code once again since Onstar seems to be logging my cell codes and emailing me to tell me to get it fixed.

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Edited by thismarks
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Made a first attempt draining the oil and getting my oil filter / feed adapter in. Unfortunately I ended up with a bit of a mess after a test start with it attached. A quart of oil splattered and 20 min of cleanup later, I realized I will have to modify that area. In front of the filter there is just enough metal to slightly lift the front of the oil adapter and create a small leak ( at 70psi running, a big leak ). I will take pictures of the area I grind away. Should only take 20 min or so to clear and not effect the function at all.

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I did get my coolant Tee fittings installed today. I will run the coolant lines and plug them off until I have the turbo installed. 

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Today was fun, only had a few hours to work on the car. My coolant fittings although placed good, had a small leak. So, back to ordering a set of high quality Tee fittings. I am including all details including my errors so people might avoid them. The inside diameter (ID) of the radiator hoses is 1 1/4" and the feed to the turbo has 1/2" lines. I was smart enough to buy a couple 1 1/4" nylon barbed joiners as a backup plan. Those are now in place until the replacement Tee fittings arrive.

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I ground away the aluminum in front of the oil filter that was preventing the oil feed adapter from seating correctly. I did this with a Hyper tough Dremel from Walmart that I bought for $17. Way better than the $60 Dremel 3000 and it didn't die. The oil feed bolts were wrapped in heavy duty Teflon tape until my oil feed line for the turbo gets attached. I will emphasize this is my daily driver and everything is being done to prep for a single day when the turbo exhaust feed and exiting exhaust gets welded in.  I attached pics of the oil feed adapter and modification below.

 

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After the long search and mistakes with the tee fittings, I have found a quality replacement for my leaky fitting. I had to upgrade to 5/8" coolant hose but, not an issue as coolant hose is inexpensive. These Kat's heater hose Tee fittings are steel and painted black. They will fit perfectly and be hassle free. Not a bad price either! I have one real step before getting the turbo pipes welded in now. I am having a fun time getting my oil pan off. It is attached really, really well. I need to remove it for my oil drain fitting. 

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No joke, those oil pans are crazy hard to get off. I had to use a crow bar on mine. I used that black oil gasket stuff when I put it back on. Best of luck with the oil pan, it took patience for me. 

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4 hours ago, LittleBlue! said:

No joke, those oil pans are crazy hard to get off. I had to use a crow bar on mine. I used that black oil gasket stuff when I put it back on. Best of luck with the oil pan, it took patience for me. 

I bought a heavy duty angled putty knife and a mini hammer. I'm guessing it's going to take a bit of time. The black gasket rtv they use is pretty much like liquid nails. I want to mount the drain above the oil pan. I can't see what is behind the location I want to drill without the oil pan off though. I read it is best to run the drain above the oil level. The oil pan in these cars is so shallow, I'm guessing anywhere on the oil pan will be below the oil level.

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Ok, so I had a somewhat successful day. I replaced the coolant Tee fittings with the Kat's fittings, ran the larger 5/8" coolant hose and plugged them off with 3/4" pex brass stoppers. I also successfully removed my oil pan, drilled it, and put the oil drain in. I had to cut and shave the inner nut for the 10t drain fitting due to clearance with the oil pump. I used Permatex ultra black gasket maker to put the pan back up. I have to wait before tightening the bolts down, as the Permatex has to be left for at least an hour with the bolts hand tight and then torqued down. I will be tightening everything tomorrow and filling back up the oil. I'm running an odd placement for the oil return to avoid crossing the exhaust path. I hope this works out, as it was the highest point on the oil pan that I could tap into. ( If you are attempting the project, I went with a better 90° steel 10an fitting to route the line differently and slow a small oil leak)

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Edited by thismarks
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So, another snag... The turbo drain fitting is forming a drip. I will be replacing the drain fitting with a steel 90° 10an fitting with better seals and a bit more torque on the holding nut. I also ordered my drain tube , (15) nice tiedowns for the 5/8" drain hose, and a Glowshift brand Air fuel ratio setup. I thought ahead and have a separate oil pan specifically for good oil, and coolant.

 Below are the parts I chose. I also decided to pick up my 52mm guage pods, and my replacement map sensor. The amount of money for the setup is starting to climb now. Mistakes also have set me back a bit. Car is running pretty amazing though and I am still very eager to get the turbo in! ( Map sensor sent to me was 1 bar and had to be returned )

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My only thought on the wideband is if you go with hp tuners' I think you will have to either wire it a certain way (beyond my knowledge) or upgrade to pro. I like the one I went with from aem as it plugs into the obd2 and hptu ers reads straight from there. It is probably just a work around for newbies like me but something to consider. Loving the progress, keep it up

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11 hours ago, LittleBlue! said:

My only thought on the wideband is if you go with hp tuners' I think you will have to either wire it a certain way (beyond my knowledge) or upgrade to pro. I like the one I went with from aem as it plugs into the obd2 and hptu ers reads straight from there. It is probably just a work around for newbies like me but something to consider. Loving the progress, keep it up

Just confirmed that my buddy has the Pro Link with the connections and HP Tuners has the Glowshift AFR presets loaded. 

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Received the map sensor that said it would be good for turbo and supercharged engines.....Nope, returned. Tested the sensor and output voltage reading told me it was a 1 bar.  Here is how to tell: 

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Edited by thismarks

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I decided to try one specifically stating 3 bar. I also got the wire harness to tap into the factory wires. I will not be removing the factory connector in case I need to go back to a stock Map sensor for vehicle inspection. 

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2 hours ago, thismarks said:

I decided to try one specifically stating 3 bar. I also got the wire harness to tap into the factory wires. I will not be removing the factory connector in case I need to go back to a stock Map sensor for vehicle inspection. 

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Sweet deal!

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I dropped my oil pan today to put the new drain fitting. I had to drill out a slightly larger hole for the fitting. The new drain is quality made and heavy duty. I did have to grind the nut quite a bit on the inside of the pan to clear the oil pump. If I were to do this again, I would have chose a different spot to drill the drain. This time I added a bit of Permatex gasket compound to the washers to make sure there were no leaks and really torqued the nut down. P_20191018_181408.jpg

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So, no oil leaks now, and no coolant leaks! I'm going to look at getting the turbo placement and possibly some supports made up. Still waiting for the extended oil drain line to arrive. I received the wideband kit and guage as well as some 2" mild steal mandrel bent stock to get the turbo welded in. 

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Yet another hiccup. Clocked the turbo only to see the drain fitting and turbo snail bolt don't agree. Off to find a different drain fitting...

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