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I am splitting my post from LittleBlue as I have a different setup and a different engine. Pretty much a completely different setup that some newer generation Sparks can be guided from or learn from my mistakes. I am using a Saab GT17 turbo as it is a reasonable and fairly reliable turbo to work with. It will be a slow project but, I will continue to post and make progress for others to follow.  I am not looking for a dragster. I am really after some more low end torque and another 25-50hp from stock. The 1.4L in my 2017 also has the odd single exhaust port that leads down to the cat. Something that might make some trouble in how I install everything. I am planning on mounting the turbo in front of the transmission on the drivers side and after the catalytic converter. This is a budget build up and the prices you see, are the absolute lowest I could find.  ( Ended up not being able to use the drain fitting in the kit nor the one I purchased as direct fit due to the clocking of the turbo and bolt clearance for the 10an fitting ) 

 

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So, after 3 oil feed banjo bolt orders, I finally have the correct one. I now have everything needed to start the measurements and placement. The reason I had issues is partly my own fault. The feed b

After getting some measurements, this is going to be tightly fitted and more modification needs to be done. The radiator fan is one of a couple issues. It takes up a ton of space needed. So... Its goi

I will be painting everything black again to blend in when it's ready to install. ( Added clamped and attached pic )

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It's been a bit bumpy as I have ordered a couple incorrect parts. Fortunately, they were not expensive ones. The gt25 ( T2 ) turbo inlet flange fits perfect to the bottom of the gt17 turbo, but the gt25 banjo bolt does not fit for the oil feed. So, I had to order one today. I found a good company through eBay called Mambatek. Quality parts. I also have to replace a couple bolts for the Turbo inlet flange, due to clearance and the turbo design. It may lead to some fabricated stainless studs. Nothing I can't take care of myself with a dremel. I'll be back with pictures of the dremeled studs and a pic of them installed. Edit: ( incorrect fitting again... :stop: )

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Sorry to hear about the parts issues, I can certainly relate. I seriously carried my turbo into menards one day to make sure a fitting I used for my oil feed would thread into the turbo. Ordering online is hard for some of these parts. Glad they were relatively cheap. 

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So, after 3 oil feed banjo bolt orders, I finally have the correct one. I now have everything needed to start the measurements and placement. The reason I had issues is partly my own fault. The feed bolt needs to be specifically for a gt1752 not a gt17. At least I have a second steel braided feed line if I need one. I have to run to Florida for a week, after that I will be posting more often on here as I build it up.

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  • 4 weeks later...

After getting some measurements, this is going to be tightly fitted and more modification needs to be done. The radiator fan is one of a couple issues. It takes up a ton of space needed. So... Its going to be removed. I'm replacing it with two 7" low profile fans that will be mounted on the opposite side of the radiator in a push configuration instead of a pull configuration as the stock fan is set up. I was considering a replacement radiator but I'm trying to keep as much stock as I can. After, I will be removing a small section of the upper to lower metal bracing in the bumper to make clearance for the turbo intake piping and air filter. Its hard to explain with- out pictures but that will be added as things progress. I am attaching a pic of the fans ordered and the frame piece that needs to be modified to fit things better. The intake is going to end up on the drivers side in the fog light area. IMG_20190824_140003.jpg

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Today, I picked up more parts and some tools for the install. Another $100 closer to getting the ball rolling. The stepper bits are to drill the hole for the oil return, below is my makeshift oil return bolt with fiber washers and tapered brass nut. Drain fitting is 10an. Spectre Maf sensor mount may need a fabricated flat plate to correctly align the sensor but not a real issue. 1/2 barb adapters are for the coolant feed and return from the turbo. Honestly started cursing as I was picking up all the water cooling parts and found that I needed a couple t-fittings that were impossible to find in metal or high temp plastic.  Edit: Skip this if looking for steps, I used all different parts except the stepped bits.

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Coolant tee connectors are a pain, I just ordered a set of coolant hose tee fittings from a Mini Cooper. I didn't want to take any chances rigging up some with PVC fitting due to the max temp of PVC being somewhere around 140°. No parts stores had these so....I had to order once again. I would be further along but I have been facing lots of delays. In the meantime I've replaced a complete suspension, replaced a set of tires / rims, patched body holes, and refinished headlights on my girlfriends 2001 Prius. I did manage to pick up the oil, filter, and get another drain pan for my Spark. So, its almost show time.  Hoping to beat the cold weather where I am.   ( If you are attempting the project, skip this, it was not the correct size )

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  • 2 weeks later...

After another fail with the coolant tee fittings from the Mini cooper,   I made my own. Not pretty but, nylon and brass will take the coolant temps.  These are 1 1/4" barbed nylon couplers drilled and tapped to accept the brass fittings. I gooped on some high temp rtv just to make sure there would be absolutely no leaks. I will spray these with black spray paint so they aren't so ugly. ( If you are attempting the project, skip this because they leaked and I found better Tee fittings for replacement )

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Dove into tearing the bumper off and getting started on making some necessary changes. The bumper was fairly easy to remove lots of plastic holding tabs and about a dozen screws.  There were no tutorials on the 2017 but you start in the wheel wells removing the front half of the plastic wheel well liner, four screws under the bumper ( they are easy to identify, they have a Phillips head and the others do not ), and two screws holding the top of the bumper under the hood to the left and right of the hood latch. Last there are two  8mm screws holding the bumper on each side. These screws position kind of sucks but the are behind the front of the wheel liner.  After that, I removed the large radiator fan. This was difficult and I had to remove the lower radiator mount screws to make enough room to get it out. There are only two screws holding it in. You need to unclip the two wire connector as well to the fan. I installed the two 7" fans in a push configuration through the condenser. If I were to do this again, I would have bought the 10" fans. I soldered and wrapped the wires to an old PC power cord that I cut the ends off and used to run the wires into the engine bay. I tested the direction of the fan flow before installing to be sure it would push air. I spliced the wires into the wiring for the original fan. I tested the fans by switching on my a/c ( it kicks the fans on in low mode ). When I was done I removed a peice of the frame support on the drivers side with a cutting wheel and dremmel (RIP).... The dremmel died when I was finishing.  I had to do this to make room for the intercooler piping as there was no possible way it would fit. I will be re-enforcing this with steel further back.  

 

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Lots of work accomplished on Sunday. Installed new frame bracing after removing the section on the right to make room for the intake and intercooler piping. Spectre brand GM Map sensor housing did not work, so I cut the original out of the airbox with my soldering iron. I also installed my new stainless steel air filter temporarily and attached it to the cut out housing ( works great! ). Installed the intercooler bottom steel brace and top braces I created, and mounted the intercooler with some of the piping. I the spray painted all open metal black to prevent rust. 

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I may replace the upper straight pipe going into the air box area with my blow off valve pipe, not completely sure yet. It really depends on clearance. I have to get the rubber throttle body "s" tubing replaced with solid tubing before knowing exactly how much room there is to play with. This also means possibly adding an oil catch can but, I would like to avoid adding unnecessary costs to the project. For now I'm driving around with the lines capped off and the bumper removed. The straight price of steel without holes is the bottom support that was drilled for the bottom screw holes of the intercooler and then zip scewed to both ends of the bumper. It needed to be slightly bent on the ends at equal points to align correctly. The top brackets were made from the other bracing steel and bent at the correct lengths. The intercooler support worked out great and it is very solid.

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I decided to keep a closed loop pcv valve system ( meaning, I am not just venting my pcv valve to the atmosphere and crank case vent ). I will be using check valves on the lines to prevent back flow from the turbo pressure. I will be creating the S-pipe to the throttlebody soon and painting it black to blend in. I'll post more pics soon.  Edit: Ended up not using these and going with a closed loop catch can system

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Bit further along as I have to wait for weekends to do any work. I just measured and started piecing together the rest of the intake tubing to the intercooler. Home Depot pvc plumbing came in handy with some slight modification. I cut about 1/2" off each end to give more room to fit. I also cut my map housing about 3/4" shorter to even the slanted end. The stock elephant trunk "s" will not work with a turbo set-up.

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