toille27

Keyless Entry Self Install Completed

9 posts in this topic

Hi, I am new to this forum and wanted to share my experience of installing a keyless entry system in my 2014 Chevy Spark LS. After much research, including this forum I had problems finding a comprehensive thread so here is my payback to the many times someone else helped me out....



I want to preface the fact that if I knew pre-install what I know now I may have paid someone to do this if it were only $300 as it took me way too long (another reason for my post). Note this installation is independent of the existing car with the exception of the power connection to the fuse box and the ground wire connection to the car chassis (and mechanical fastening of the actuators); translated don't worry about any existing wiring colors.



My materials from Amazon:




Facts about my 2014 LS...


  • There is no existing wiring inside the doors for the power locks (except a wire that connects to the drivers side jamb latch where it secures to the bolt on the body of the car, could not figure out what it was for).
  • Each door has a plastic molex connector that seals the door wire penetration to the frame.
  • The existing harness wiring at the front drivers side door is so tightly secured to other wiring it is impossible to get slack to loosen the front drivers side door molex.
  • The front passenger side door molex plug falls adjacent to a structural bracket and makes interior access to the molex impossible.
  • The rubber boots that go from the molex plug to the door have very little extra room and make it very hard to fish wires especially in the bent position.
  • The front door molex connector hits the door when in the fully open position so removal of the plug is impossible and even if one did get it apart I have no idea how to gain access to reassemble.
  • The rear door molex connectors have a few inches of slack and I did find that they can be removed from the frame and disconnected.
  • There is one screw in each door handle well, below a fitted rubber base piece that pops out (see photo). That is the only screw on each door that needs to be removed, the remainder of the door is held with plastic friction fasteners.
  • The front door lock mechanism is inside the door cavity and the rear door lock mechanism is between the inside of the door body and the removable door panel, you will see in my photos.


Facts about the install:



  • The Pipeman actuator kit wiring (blue and green wires) is just the right length for the spark within a few inches (hard to believe) so don't leave any slack anywhere.
  • You will not use the relay control board that comes with the Pipeman kit. The Bulldog controller will connect directly to the actuator wires per the diagram attached.
  • The Bulldog kit comes with one automotive relay should you wish to connect other systems to the keyless entry (dome light, parking light, etc.) so if you are connecting more than one indicator you will need extra relays sold separately.
  • The fuse built into the Bulldog controller is 15 Amps so make sure your positive 12 VDC fuse tap is at least 15 Amps, I blew a 5 Amp fuse.
  • You will need to remove the front doors to properly install the front door actuator wiring through the molex plugs (see photos).
  • The actuators will fit in the door cavity easily, however the front doors inside handle rod interfere with the actuator rod and you will have to bend around it (see photo).
  • Rear doors-Make sure you remove the plastic trim block at the back of the rear door window first prior to removing the panel below it.
  • Front doors-Make sure you remove the plastic trim surrounding the manual side mirror adjustment arm first prior to removing the panel below it.


Here is the wiring diagram for the KE1702 (ignore reference to 2 doors and pretend 4 are shown):



https://docs.google.com/document/d/1o1Q-edaIQ1D_ljnXsVr6K4nJNADJ8kSO-liEhQsOkmQ/edit?usp=sharing



The diagram works exactly as shown except the green/black wire from the bulldog controller goes to the blue actuator wire and the blue/black wire from the bulldog controller goes to the green actuator wire.



Front Door Removed



https://docs.google.com/document/d/1C7_hBFPveYH3W15HQE0jbtz4s3j_y68GbuwuFfZr2Sg/edit?usp=sharing



Molex Plug Front Door



https://docs.google.com/document/d/1d2py9ijNSfHB2KL64Brj6IiLeVJOpKib0Q7S2dTZeww/edit?usp=sharing



https://docs.google.com/document/d/1b7qjmZYM3sFmdkN5SfA-T0FjNQ_aGOnt764CJqViMcs/edit?usp=sharing



Inside Front Drivers Door



https://docs.google.com/document/d/1iCwFGP5gU4E1E8YDuTZLlJ_oLWBCU9hnP6BdOiriNdw/edit?usp=sharing



Front Door Screw Locations



https://docs.google.com/document/d/1hODyaRMzLfZ4JCn1msOyYxIfQZ_EiymgbODJbC-Lpqk/edit?usp=sharing



Passenger Rear Door. I wanted the actuators inside the door cavity so the trim won't interfere with the actuator rods. I'm not a welder so don't make fun...



https://docs.google.com/document/d/1BdyhZ5SjfDkpzSFb8W0JIE1Mit8R9f2dLjSfKjAhsCw/edit?usp=sharing



Drivers Side Rear Door. The blue tape is covering wet Locktite Go2 Glue for vibration and preventing loosening screws.



https://docs.google.com/document/d/1CZ8dMcj5VoVWWszSDw6xKfHX7zu1ycQAE3cH1d2QJRk/edit?usp=sharing



Screw on Door



https://docs.google.com/document/d/1J5mm8a_iMFuWJhOU0A6u4xZMQ3drqDBzyK8Q-1N77eg/edit?usp=sharing



Ground Wire Connection



https://docs.google.com/document/d/1dBREw8xqiVo5i9-lrYgF2gqg9lvVAkGjn4-m8HFey7M/edit?usp=sharing



Power Connection



https://docs.google.com/document/d/1neTZ8oy-HUju2fyZCJomDX7AfFFcjJuMq3mlVymaiWE/edit?usp=sharing


Edited by toille27

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Huh. I might do my father's for him. Thanks for all this!

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Got to hand it to you, quite a project....

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toille i have to hand it to you for your tenacity in doing this and documenting it so well and concise for the rest of us.

I also want to thank you for getting me out of doing this to my wife's car. She saw the pic of the drivers door off of the car and decided that she can live with manual door locks! :)

i will keep this bookmarked in case she changes her mind (like next week).

Thanks again!

Robert

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Toiller thanks for the great write up it convinced me that I dont really need door locks as much as I thought.

Walt

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Outstanding job on your detailed instructions & pictures. I just bought my daughter a new 2015 LS and found your post in my research. It is exactly what I needed. I know I can do this BUT should I be. I've always tried to keep my son from messing with his cars. If it ain't broke don't fix it. But he ignores me and puts in stereos, new rear ends, headers, High intensity lights, etc and it just drives me nuts. Now here I am not practicing what I preach and going against all better judgment. I think I will see how my daughter does with them being manual for awhile. If I can keep her from having bunch of keys on the ring so don't scratch the paint when opening and she can reach the locks easily enough I may leave well enough alone. The one picture showing the plastic door barrier was nice. I like to know what I'm dealing with before I pop those door panels off. I've replaced window regulators and such. Usually the vehicles are older and some have sort of a harder thickness door barrier that gets brittle and falls apart when taking off. This one don't look too bad. I will only do the front two doors if I do decide to do it. It's just her and my granddaughter who rides in front. Thanks again

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That's alot of work to spoil your daughter with power locks! I think younger ppl are more interested in the music aspect and hands free phone in a car. To me hands free voice activated phone is a must and just swell when I get a call while in Miami 'nutsville' traffic.

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I wanted to add to this old thread that I am going on 2 years with the keyless entry and everything still works great (knock on wood). I also wanted to add that the two existing wires that go to the drivers side door latch (appears to be a 12VDC jamb release) were probably for OnStar to remotely open the drivers side door.

I eventually tied the keyless entry into the rear hatch lock as well using an automotive relay tied into the dashboard latch button. It simulates a press of the dash button when I hit the key fob lock/release button.

Edited by toille27

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Hi, anyone tried removing rear door panel?

I asked here as that is part of this job.

I am installing door LED strip as puddle lamp but stuck with rear door panel. I already tried pulling it apart but its not moving. Also, I want to know how to remove mirror crank handle.

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