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Getting accustomed to the clutch on the Spark manual


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Have any of you had problems getting used to how the clutch is set up on these cars? I have never owned an automatic, always manuals, from compacts all the way to tractor trailers, so I can safely assert I know how to drive manuals. The issue I have had with the Spark and its clutch is how it performs when starting from a stop, I have no problems changing gears when I am already in motion, but starting from a stop is just not as smooth as I would expect on a new car.
I have owned my 2013 LS for 5 months now. My problem manifests itself when starting from a stop in the form of shuddering, as if I was using too low revolutions or backing out of the clutch too fast. The shuddering shows up only very near to the end of the pedal release. The only way to mitigate the shuddering that I have found is to back out of the clutch very, very slowly, but it just seems too slow of a release for me, life long manual usage has taught me to beware slipping and riding the clutch. I even took the car to the dealer with that question, suspecting the clutch plate may have had a manufacturing defect. The dealer could not find any problems with the clutch in his opinion, other than my driving style was "too agressive," mind you , the service coordinator was taking off at around or below 1000rpm and in no particular hurry, seemed like he was really letting the RPMs dip below 1000. Being that manual Sparks vastly outnumber automatics world wide, there must be something I am not doing right. All of my previous cars have had a low bite point and narrow engagement range, this is the first car that I have had to ride the pedal all the way to the top to complete engagement. To give you an idea of what I am doing and have always done in other cars, my usual starting from a stop method is the following:

1.Release clutch to before bite point, around half way of total pedal travel

2. Increase and hold throttle to between 1000 and 1500, never above 2000

3. Release clutch slowly while maintaining rpm between 1000 and 1500

4. Accelerate only after clutch has been fully released.

This method has always worked for me in other cars, I have never burnt out a clutch. My main concern in the Spark is that I have to release much more slowly than what I have had to before, I have the worry I may actually be burning the clutch.

In all the manual cars I have owned, I have never had to think so much about starting from stop than in this car, its really the only thing that is keeping me from being completely satisfied with the purchase. I have become so frustrated that I want to get rid of the car as soon as a I work down the car note a little, but I would also hate to give up on it just because this clutch got the best of me. So my question to the manual owners here are the following; How do you start from a stop on your Spark? What RPM range do you use? Do you hold a constant RPM on start? Or do you modulate clutch out/throttle in? How do you do it in a smooth manner?

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If you want to take of quickly (which you do if you're leaving the line at > 1000rpm), try a little more throttle. You're talking about 84hp, that right pedal is going to need some tough love, and

Update I have been using the previously mentioned technique, but the process was still bothering me, it just seemed unnatural for a life long manual driver, and that I was putting undue strain on the

I have had no issues with my clutch and 5 speed. Put it in gear, give the little motor some revs, let off the clutch in one smooth motion, and off ya go. I have been driving manuals most of my life, i

If you want to take of quickly (which you do if you're leaving the line at > 1000rpm), try a little more throttle. You're talking about 84hp, that right pedal is going to need some tough love, and you're going to have to slip the clutch a bit more than something with torque. I have noticed some clutch chatter when its cold/damp/wet out, but thats probably my left knee acting up and not being able to clutch smoothly, rather than the car itself.

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These little cars do not have granny gears, so you almost always need to give them a bit of gas to get moving. The spark I drove was a lot better than my Focus for this.

Also, the transverse engine "hops" around front to back instead of side to side, making the shuddering sensation worse.

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If you want to take of quickly (which you do if you're leaving the line at > 1000rpm), try a little more throttle. You're talking about 84hp, that right pedal is going to need some tough love, and you're going to have to slip the clutch a bit more than something with torque. I have noticed some clutch chatter when its cold/damp/wet out, but thats probably my left knee acting up and not being able to clutch smoothly, rather than the car itself.

Ok, well, it has been a week and I have been using your method with very good results. I move up to bite point, rev between 1000 and 1500, slip the clutch for about 2 to 3 seconds to get a good roll going, move clutch to top. This has put an end to the shuddering. Seems to me now that my problem is that I am so used to heavy clutches with tight contact points that I had forgotten some slip is required in cars with low torque. Seems to me this need was factored into the wide contact area of this clutch.

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  • 1 month later...

Update

I have been using the previously mentioned technique, but the process was still bothering me, it just seemed unnatural for a life long manual driver, and that I was putting undue strain on the clutch, so I decided to do some exhaustive comparative research that I could share with you all.

I first went to the Chevrolet dealership to drive a 2014 Spark, they drive identically to my 2013 so I can rule out clutch problems. I asked the Chevy saleswoman about the proper technique to overcome the shuddering, I asked her to drive the 2014, she was no better at preventing the shuddering than I was, to her credit, she was perplexed as to why neither she nor I could get a smooth takeoff on this thing, so she then got the service manager to drive it, and the man could hardly drive a manual, he was creeping off the clutch at idle like a complete novice, and tried to tell me his way is the "correct" way of driving a manual and how he drives his SUV (strange that it was not a Chevrolet), I decided to let restraint outshine my displeasure at this load of nonsense, mostly because there was a lady present, and take my research somewhere else. I then went to the local Carmax, and drove the nearest competition to the Spark with a manual transmission; a Fiat 500,and a Nissan Versa SV, the ugly sad turtle looking sedan one, not the Note. For a control subject, I also drove a manual Sonic LTZ Turbo, since I have read about complaints about the light clutch on Sonics. I also drove the new Mitsubishi Mirage at a nearby dealer.

The Fiat has a more traditional feeling clutch in that it engages close to the floor, but it also has a few more horsepower and torque, so no issues taking off on that one, the Fiat also has a lower first gear ratio than the Spark, making it more of a "granny" first gear than what is found on Spark or Mirage. The Nissan and the Mitsubishi have the identical setup for the clutch as the Spark; a very light clutch with almost no feel and long engagement travel. The Versa is more forgiving but not by much, but since the Versa has a somewhat larger engine, the problem is the opposite from the shuddering in the Spark, lurching. The Sonic Turbo indeed has a very light clutch and almost no bite point feel, but it has so much power that taking off on that one is a breeze, pne can just roll off the clutch, no indications of shuddering or danger of stalling that beast. The three cylinder Mirage is almost identical situation as the Spark as far as clutch feel, long travel, very light, no bite feel. The salesman at Mitsubishi explained that this is done because these engines have such little torque, it is necessary to encourage some measure clutch slip, so the pedal travel is long to compensate for those drivers that are not adept at finding the bite point,and would have to creep off the clutch pedal. I found this information very useful. Continuing my "scholarly research," I also watched many how-to videos on driving manuals, from amateurs and from driving schools, and from said research I have come to the most effective strategy to avoid shuddering on takeoff.

1. Clutch all the way to the floor

2. Push throttle to desired RPM and hold, 1000 to 1500 for a creeping start, 1500 to 2000 for stop light take off.

3. Release clutch to biting point and hold both throttle and clutch at this time RPM will begin to drop and car will begin to move, hold clutch and throttle at same position until RPM stops dropping, this takes about 2 seconds in the 1000 to 1500rpm range, about 1 second the closer one gets to 2000 rpm.

4. Once RPM drop has stabilized, begin releasing the clutch. It is optional to use more throttle, but not too much as to avoid a jolt, as the clutch is released, or just hold the throttle until the clutch is fully released, depending on your driving style or sense of urgency.

Using this technique, I have been able to avoid shuddering and having to use excessive revs. I have also drastically cut down the time I have been riding the clutch on take-off.

It seems to me this whole ordeal could have been avoided several ways; a larger displacement to the engine, a lower first gear, a heavier spring on the clutch. Of course, such previously mentioned solutions would have required some investment on the part of GM, but it would have made the car absolutely superior to its main rival, the Fiat 500, which is worse in handling and suspension than the Spark. A true cost effective solution would have been better documentation on the user's manual. The user manual only has one sentence pertaining to how to use the manual on the Spark;

"1 (First): Press the clutch pedaland shift into 1 (First). Then, slowly let up on the clutch pedal as you press the accelerator pedal." (2013 Chevrolet Spark Users Manual US models, section 9-23)

This "information" is hardly any help, and would have avoided the displeasure to me and others of having to learn on our own. I am hardly the only one having issues with how the clutch is set up in the Spark, many reviews make note on how badly designed the clutch is. A little modest honesty on the part of GM's documentation would have made it clear as to the reasons the clutch is designed the way it is on Spark.

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I have given up trying to figure out how to shift smoothly. It seems the harder I try, the worse I do. I do my best if I'm not paying attention at all. Starting on a hill for me has always resulted in shuddering and slip. To me, I think that's how the car was designed. How much damage can a car so light, and a motor so small do? Its not like we are cranking on the clutch plate with diesel torque at 5k rpm.

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I have given up trying to figure out how to shift smoothly. It seems the harder I try, the worse I do. I do my best if I'm not paying attention at all. Starting on a hill for me has always resulted in shuddering and slip. To me, I think that's how the car was designed. How much damage can a car so light, and a motor so small do? Its not like we are cranking on the clutch plate with diesel torque at 5k rpm.

I was having the same problem.

Edited by Ataristic
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I have given up trying to figure out how to shift smoothly. It seems the harder I try, the worse I do. I do my best if I'm not paying attention at all. Starting on a hill for me has always resulted in shuddering and slip. To me, I think that's how the car was designed. How much damage can a car so light, and a motor so small do? Its not like we are cranking on the clutch plate with diesel torque at 5k rpm.

I think they method I have posted will help you. I was having the same problem you are, and It came down to the fact that the clutch on these cars has no feel, so it is very easy to miss the bite point and actually release the clutch too much, which will cause the shuddering. These cars are meant to be slipped, all cars are to a certain extent, but specially in cars with very low torque such as the Spark, this is why the clutch travel is so long, to encourage clutch slippage.

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No matter what you do to try and stop this from happening, wait a while and it will get worse, then it will get better. I'm having issues with "soft" clutch and brake pedals, I expect the reason for all this is contaminated fluid since they share a reservoir.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have had no issues with my clutch and 5 speed. Put it in gear, give the little motor some revs, let off the clutch in one smooth motion, and off ya go. I have been driving manuals most of my life, including tractor trailer (semi) for 6 years, and I have to say that the Spark has a nice, smooth operating gearbox/clutch. Especially for a $13.000 ride !! Can also be shifted just fine without the use of the clutch as long as you find the "sweet spot" of RPMS in conjunction with the gear you are choosing. The Hill assist feature works just fine to, not that I would need it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have had no issues with my clutch and 5 speed. Put it in gear, give the little motor some revs, let off the clutch in one smooth motion, and off ya go. I have been driving manuals most of my life, including tractor trailer (semi) for 6 years, and I have to say that the Spark has a nice, smooth operating gearbox/clutch. Especially for a $13.000 ride !! Can also be shifted just fine without the use of the clutch as long as you find the "sweet spot" of RPMS in conjunction with the gear you are choosing. The Hill assist feature works just fine to, not that I would need it.

This is the method I have been using for years, but it just does not seem to agree with my Spark, how much RPM's do you first set your throttle to? I find the method you have described only works well for me if I set throttle at 2000rpm on a flat surface, which seems high for me, then again, I have never owned a car with such a tiny engine. The method i have had more success with is the UK driving school method:

set throttle at 1500

move clutch to biting point and hold

add more throttle

roll off clutch

Even if it does work, this method just seems to involved, too many steps and too much thinking required, specially when one is in stop and go traffic.

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This is the method I have been using for years, but it just does not seem to agree with my Spark, how much RPM's do you first set your throttle to? I find the method you have described only works well for me if I set throttle at 2000rpm on a flat surface, which seems high for me, then again, I have never owned a car with such a tiny engine. The method i have had more success with is the UK driving school method:

set throttle at 1500

move clutch to biting point and hold

add more throttle

roll off clutch

Even if it does work, this method just seems to involved, too many steps and too much thinking required, specially when one is in stop and go traffic.

I do not even watch the tach (RPMS) when I take off. Like it has been said, it's a small, lower hp engine, and so giving it some revs is essential. Probably between like 1200 and 1600 rpms or so. Maybe just try taking off in second gear, especially if you have just made a "rolling" type stop. I guess that fact that I used to drive Semi, makes it a natural for me to shift just about any type of manual trans without even giving it any thought. I find the drivetrain in my Spark to be pretty darn nice,,,at least as nice as was in my 03 Forrd Focus ZX-3. Maybe try letting off the clutch a little easier,,,you might be passing the "grab point" to quickly. And possibly, your clutch needs an adjustment. I now drive mine without even using the clutch at times, it's just a matter of shifting at the right speed/rpms. As others have mentioned, I also have no issue with 'jumpy' starts, driveline shudder, or anything like that, Maybe I just ended up with one of the well built Sparks,,,,I'm just approaching 4000 miles of desert driving and it runs as good as the day that I drove it off the lot. Not a single squeak or rattle, A/C blows ice cold. steering is tight and crisp, no oil usage what so ever, everythign on the car works as it should and I am averaging just shy of 39mpg with a lot of that driving on the I-10 at 75mph. Good luck to you.

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I think mine started to go because rust would set up on the parts when it sat over a weekend, in the desert you might not have enough humidity for this to happen.

You mean your clutch started to go? I don't think that rust would form just over a weekend or short period of time normally. And there is no humidity here at all except a bit of it during the monsoon season (rainy season) which is July and August. Today is was 101 and dry as a bone.

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It was definitely very grabby on Monday mornings and now on wet or snowy roads it jutters enough to trip the traction control from normal or slow starts.

It sounds like it needs an adjustment or maybe there is some other problem with it ?? I don't believe that my traction control has ever activated. But it hasn't rained here in like forever.

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I drive the car daily for a long time and I do feel the grabby clutch but then it became soft and smooth after a day rest from driving. I find it strange that there are many issues in the US spark. Here, not a single person ever compaint about the car and I own 3 Spark, not one of them has a fault.

Edited by Abdullah Hj Kasim
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  • 2 weeks later...

I had to drive to another town a couple hundred miles away today, and while I was there, I saw a Lime green Spark on a dealers lot. It was a base model, no options. I decided to take it for a test drive. I was surprised at how easy it was to drive. The clutch was very light, and it shifted well, though not as well as a RWD car with the shifter connected directly to the transmission. The clutch engaged just where I like it to. I don't want a clutch to engage one inch off the floor. I found that if you give it some throttle and released the clutch fairly quickly, it took off smoothly. I could easily live with it around town, not sure about highway trips without cruise control.

Has anyone actually had a for sure clutch failure? Being a front wheel drive, this would not be an easy car to replace a clutch in without the right equipment. My sister bought a new '99 S10 with a manual transmission, and the clutch was completely gone in under 20,000 miles. So were the front brakes. The cause was 4 hours of bumper to bumper 5 mph stop and go freeway traffic every day where you are constantly slipping the clutch to move a few feet, then hitting the brakes. Fortunately that was RWD, so it was no big deal to replace. I don't see myself ever driving in traffic like that. IMO, if not abused (like that) a clutch should last well past 100,000 miles.

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Mine has the symptoms of clutch chatter, also known as shutter, the clutch begins to skip towards the end of its travel. The only way to mitigate this is to rev really high, around 2000, or modulate clutch and throttle to keep rpm constant. This effect is specially noticeable when moving off from a stop on a mild uphill grade. I will be going to the dealer first thing tomorrow so they can diagnose this. I have never had a manual with clutch chatter. In this spark, the chatter has always been there, hence my journey on trying to find what I was doing wrong, but now it is getting worse.

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If the clutch has a rough engagement, causing the whole car to shake, that is almost always caused by uneven wear on the friction disc, or oil on the disc. It can also be caused by a bad release bearing, a bad or out of adjustment linkage (since the Spark has a hydraulic clutch, it likely has no adjustment) or improper alignment of the friction disc and the pressure plate.

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Well, I went to the dealer, they drove it around, and blamed it on me coming off the pedal too fast. But just like before, they will not admit that this car is just underpowered and one has to baby the clutch. I even tested it on an uphill, it is absolutely anemic starting uphill, even frightening, It will just not move without giving it some serious revs , over 3000, and even then, it will loose rpms fast.

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