tommyspark 24 Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 Link to post Share on other sites
Greg_E 211 Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 Is that the PRO version? I don't remember seeing some of those in the free version of the software. I have my 7 inch tablet resurrected and might pretty much leave it in the car for different duties. That said I hope the service manual lists some of these other PID numbers so I can get a few more things implemented in the software, would be nice to see tire pressures and a few other things that I know Onstar can see so they are in the data stream. Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 Ya its the pro version. Best $4.99 I've ever spent Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 I agree about the tire pressure! We have the learn tool.at school but I.always.forget Link to post Share on other sites
NOMAD 1 Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 I was looking at what you did with the hose, but it looks like it really pinches down where it goes between the painted front end and the steel frame? Is that just an optical illusion, or is it really that pinched? I was screwing around and folded up a tiny piece of cardboard and used that and a wood shim to force the flat black deflector behind the grille back towards the engine a bit. That opens up the airflow a little bit through the grille, hitting the deflector and then shooting up to the rubber seal for the snorkel. If you notice the way the flat black, vertical, air deflector is from the factory, it is fairly loose in there and positioned kind of in the middle of the void. All I did was push it back towards the engine a bit. Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 It's pinched a little bit. There's really no way around this unless you want to cut that piece of the bumper out. I'm not doing that..... Can you post a pic of how you used the wood? Link to post Share on other sites
NOMAD 1 Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 Sure, I'll take a pic later or tomorrow. It's just a pre-cut wood shim. I shoved it down vertically at the far left of the opening if facing the car. It pushed that flat black plastic deflector in. I realized, with a little hunk of cardboard, to the right, I could push it in even further. Link to post Share on other sites
NOMAD 1 Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 Not pretty, but it should direct more cold air directly up to the snorkel. I'll probably slap some tape on there too, to smooth the curve from the black deflector to the painted steel. None of this will probably accomplish anything, BUT, it also can't hurt either. Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 It might increase the air flow a little bit but I wouldn't expect much honestly. How's the cowl working out? Link to post Share on other sites
NOMAD 1 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 So far, so good on the cowl. No water in the air box at all, despite lots of rain. Perhaps a slight power increase and a slight mpg increase. Tough to say with the weather changing so much and such a lack of consistency in my driving distances, routes and speeds. Link to post Share on other sites
NOMAD 1 Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 New best mpg for me with the cowl / cold induction and the wheels taped over. Did a trip from SE Michigan to NW Michigan and back in one day, 455 miles. Average air temp, 50. Average speed, 63.1. About 70% at 75 mph and 30% at 60 mph. According to the car, I averaged 40.4 mpg. According to fuelly.com, the tank of gas I used on the way home took me 319 miles on 7.704 gallons, for an average of 41 mpg. Link to post Share on other sites
Greg_E 211 Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Did you get winter fuel yet? I think I got dosed the last fill up because I'm struggling to get 40mpg again, just like last winter. Smikster 1 Link to post Share on other sites
NOMAD 1 Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 I'm really not sure. What I think is it is winter blend locally. When I filled up in NW Michigan about 1/3 of the way into my round trip, I'm guessing that was NOT winter blend, which accounted for my best ever fuel economy. Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 I don't even know what winter gas is?! In the last 12 years I've lived in Memphis, Tucson Arizona, England (drove a british turbo diesel) and Florida. None of which would need a different gas for winter Link to post Share on other sites
Greg_E 211 Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Then you are lucky, because it sucks! Same octane rating, same alcohol rating, but about 3% less power so your mileage drops by around 3%. Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Dang! Ya I've never heard of it Link to post Share on other sites
hogue2112 0 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 This thread is awesome. Any long term test results to post now? I have a 2014, and am looking to do this mod. Anyone have any luck? I also seem to notice that there are a few different ones in here. Anyone care to make a "sticky" reference post in here on how to do each? Link to post Share on other sites
psquare75 35 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) . Edited April 8, 2014 by psquare75 Link to post Share on other sites
ChevySparkMafia 1 Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Think this is on my to do list when I get home. What is the final diagnosis for which gets better power/MPG gains? Link to post Share on other sites
e6stock 0 Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I'm late to respond to this post about the air intake resonator removal. It's a great topic and idea! On my 2014 LS I noticed right away how congested the entire intake/exhaust system is. Of course it's designed like this, for quiet operation and economy. The lower resonator tube can be easily removed from the box just by loosening the air filter box bolts and sliding the tube out of the box. You don't need to turn the wheels, or remove the fender wells, unless you want to extract the entire box. I just separated the tube to the airbox connection, and left the resonator in place. In case it needs to be re-connected for warranty servicing. The power gain after removing the lower resonator is quite noticeable! Much faster starts and overall acceleration, as it should since you're doubling the amount of air intake, and essentially making a cheap cold air intake port to the airbox. I also used some 3" wide by 1/4" thick foil-backed fiberglass insulation to wrap around the main air intake snorkel, which is mounted to the top fender area and runs into the main airbox. A tremendous amount of heat from the engine heats up the stock air snorkel and sends all the hot air into the airbox. Not good. Just insulate it and get cool air right away. I've also addded the K&N 33-2492 air filter and replaced the cheap spark plugs with iridium spark plugs. WOW indeed. What a huge different overall with very little cost or time, all while maintaining the factory warranty. The car zips and zooms around with ease and at 55 to 60 mph in 4th or 5th gear i average 44 mpg. Even in town with stop and go, hard driving i get 36 mpg. And I can easily take off at the green light and not have people riding my butt, like i did when the car was stock. Now, the logical thing to do is work on the crappy exhaust. It will kill the warranty, but I really want to modify the cat-back system. Just cut out the first muffler right behind the cat-converter, piece that back with a pipe weld. Then remove the stock rear muffler (muffler #2) and add a Magnaflow dual port. This will make the car really breathe! Even without increasing the size of the pipes, which I'd not do due to cost. Would like to hear from anyone who's straight-piped the exhaust or added new efficient mufflers on the Spark. Link to post Share on other sites
cj_hauser 0 Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 has anyone tried to cut out a piece of the hood seal that is in front of the intake to open up that .5 inch gap to outside air? Link to post Share on other sites
cornflakes 9 Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 So, anyone have anything report back with this minor mod after all this time? How is it holding up? Any issues now or still as great as the first time you did it? I'm thinking about trying it on mine also as I would like to have that extra zip at the traffic lights. So you don't actually have to remove the air resonator box right? Just remove the air tube from the main air filter box to the air resonator box? Abdullah Hj Kasim 1 Link to post Share on other sites
2008nigel 0 Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 In reply to the questions posted by cornflakes yesterday - nearly three months ago I removed the tube connecting the air filter box to the resonator box & drilled a few discreet holes in the airbox for good measure. I noticed an increase in induction noise throughout the rev range, but nothing to attract unwanted attention from the authorities. There was a noticeable increase in power & responsiveness from stock (particularly in 2nd & 3rd gear when I floor it) and there has, to date, been no downside to this free mod which can be reversed in a few minutes. Despite the fact that it is obviously sucking in some warm air along with the cold air from the original intake, the mileage has increased slightly (my own tank to tank calculations) from an average of 39.8 to 41.5 MPG. This improvement could be attributed to the milder weather and/or the engine loosening up slightly but it certainly doesn't cost me any more to run. In a nutshell - sounds better, revs more freely, more poke, more fun & costs nothing. Link to post Share on other sites
mrgareth 0 Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I've also addded the K&N 33-2492 air filter and replaced the cheap spark plugs with iridium spark plugs. Can I ask what model spark plugs you used? Denso IXU22 or another brand/model? And did you have to gap them? I want iridium spark plugs for ours (2011 model though) but I'm having big trouble trying to find the right ones to use. Link to post Share on other sites
Greg_E 211 Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Do not gap iridium plugs, the electrodes break easily and they are supposed to come set properly. Can't help with the part number. Link to post Share on other sites
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