gitsum

Intake mod, Wow!

240 posts in this topic

I thought I read somewhere that the spark came with hundred thousand mile plugs

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I think the manual might have said that, it isn't on the 30,000 mile service list or mine would have needed to be done last time I was at the dealer.

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Trying not to get too off-topic (and yep I've modified my girlfriend's Spark with this intake mod)...

But the Australian version of this car (Holden Barina Spark) uses standard copper plugs and they are changed every 30,000km or every two years. I want to swap the plain copper with longer lasting iridiums. :)

Her car is a bit over 3 years old (it's out of warranty now) and has done 26,000km's. I've changed the oil a few times (Nulon full-synth long life 5W30 Dexos1 approved), done the intake mod and extended the air conditioning drain hose. I don't know about the overseas models but in ours, the A/C drain hose drains right over some of the chassis bolts and I'm betting they'll rust if you don't move the drain hose. :( I've also changed the oil filter and the pollen filter.

Have to admit though, the more I read about these cars, the more I worry... too many stories of broken noisy engines in various forums. Ours sometimes makes a slight knocking noise after start up (and has some valve noise too) so we let the car idle for a minute before we move it out of the drive way.

Edited by mrgareth

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Even just dropping in a K&N air filter and changing out the old engine oil to Mobil 1 full synthetic (i'm sure other top notch full synthetics will do the same...or even better ones PAOs and ESTER-D), I've noticed a much smoother engine. Obviously it's nothing that will add significant hp, but I've always used high performance air filters (or CAIs) and full synthetic engine oils and it just "feels" to me the car throttles and rides a bit smoother.

I'm still interested to do the air box resonator delete, but I don't know if I should just "disconnect" the hose from the airbox to the resonator airbox or if I should actually remove the entire airbox resonator. I can't seem to get a good look at from the hood. Even under the car, it's hard to see it. I think something is blocking the view ..not sure if anyone posted a video or photos of how to get to the airbox resonator. I can see the tube coming out from the air filter airbox and going down to somewhere else that appears to be around the fender wheel area but after that I lose it....i can't see anything.

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I just did a tube removal. Took loose the air filter box pulled to to the side a little and then reached down and took the snap in tube out if the resonator box. It took all of 10 minutes. That included getting my ratchet and 10mm socket ready.

It's a cool day today and I didn't notice much performance difference, but my mileage seems to have gone up on the DIC. I drove a 15 mile loop before then after the mod. Before I got 41.5mpg after I got 44.7mpg. That alone is worth it. Another benefit was the motor just sounds better when accelerating.

If I ever need to take it in for warranty work it's a quick swap back.

Edited by Timothy Tiller

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Hi this is Tim Tiller the previous poster. I have been running the car with the tube disconnected and it works great in cooler temps but when the temperature under the hood starts rising I am losing power. I got a 2" silicone 90 degree adapter and angled it to pull more air from lower in the compartment and closer to the outside air. I will run it for a week and get back to you all on this.

Edited by Angrybird12

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I was conservative when describing the extra performance because there is always the "placebo" affect after modding your own car.

We did the same mod to my son's Spark and he was both surprised and happy. He estimated that the engine gained at least 4 or 5 horses, maybe even as much as 10%. My mechanical experience tells me 10% is not realistic for just opening the airbox, But my seat of the pants dyno tells me there is 5% - 10% more motivation.

Numbers aside, this is an absolute "must do mod" for every Chevy Spark. The gains are very significant and really add to the character of the car making it feel peppier and more lively.

Best of all it's free, completely reversible, and doesn't make the car sound obnoxious.

Thanks Gitsum for the write up, was a simple task.

Walt

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So, anyone have anything report back with this minor mod after all this time? How is it holding up? Any issues now or still as great as the first time you did it?

I'm thinking about trying it on mine also as I would like to have that extra zip at the traffic lights. So you don't actually have to remove the air resonator box right? Just remove the air tube from the main air filter box to the air resonator box?

Yes, you only need to remove the tube/hose to get the extra power. I have recently remove the tube on a 1.0cc Spark and I can say it gives the car an extra 5hp or more and loud sound if you floor it.

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Makes me think a cold air intake might be worthwhile if I can find one cheap.

in the netherlands there are 2 guys wich had there Spark tuned. one used an cold air intake (from koreanautoimports.com) and the other did the adjustments ont the stock air intake. they both had the spark on the testbank and they both had the same power gain :) on top of that there is an KN filter voor the filterbox. i have that in my filterbox to and it works fine. i am still trying different ways of connecting tubes to the box though ;)

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Even just dropping in a K&N air filter and changing out the old engine oil to Mobil 1 full synthetic (i'm sure other top notch full synthetics will do the same...or even better ones PAOs and ESTER-D), I've noticed a much smoother engine. Obviously it's nothing that will add significant hp, but I've always used high performance air filters (or CAIs) and full synthetic engine oils and it just "feels" to me the car throttles and rides a bit smoother.

I'm still interested to do the air box resonator delete, but I don't know if I should just "disconnect" the hose from the airbox to the resonator airbox or if I should actually remove the entire airbox resonator. I can't seem to get a good look at from the hood. Even under the car, it's hard to see it. I think something is blocking the view ..not sure if anyone posted a video or photos of how to get to the airbox resonator. I can see the tube coming out from the air filter airbox and going down to somewhere else that appears to be around the fender wheel area but after that I lose it....i can't see anything.

you have to remove (losen) the plastic in the wheel fender driverside. there you wil find that box witch can be removed. also if you open the filterbox you'll find an tube that can also be removed (can not be put back afterwards, because those screws will break) Foto550-UUHPHIGY.jpg

Foto550-646TM744.jpg

als in the hose from the filterbox to the engine there is an extra tube, for god knows what. that can also be removed ;)

after removing that box in the wheelfender, best is to connect an hose to the whole in the filterbox and lead it to the wheelfender so it sucks cold air and not from the engine compartment ;)

like this:

Foto550-L3TPG3A8.jpg

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We don't have that tube in the airbox in the USA, so one less thing to remove.

weetsj likes this

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We don't have that tube in the airbox in the USA, so one less thing to remove.

aha ;)

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OK after driving around with the 90 on the air box to pull in cooler air from under the car I can say it definitely helps. Its worth the little effort it take to remove the tube between the air box and resonator box and getting cooler air into the engine. I recommend trying it.

weetsj and robdotexe like this

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If you make the extra effort to go under the fender guard to remove the resonator box, the tube can be left in place to draw cooler air from underneath by the wheel well. Same effect as a cold air intake.

Been driving it this way for 30,000 miles, the car runs perfect with no issues. The engine really loosened up around 15k and I average 42-44 mpg in the city, no hypermiling.

Edited by gitsum
weetsj and robdotexe like this

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Posted (edited)

I just joined the forums looking at this discussion. I own a chevy spark 1.2. I'm thinking of doing this mod to my car too. Thanks for the information everyone. At my place it never snows and barely even rains. So I don't have to worry about hydrolocking the motor. Would perform the mod update the info again. And I will reset the ecu too at the same time so that it will adapt to the new air-fuel ratio.

 

At the 15,000 mile oil change I went with liqui moly full synthetic 5w30 and the engine became smoother at idle. It is smooth all throughout the rev band. The throttle became a bit more responsive. Definitely recommended.

 

The image is from when I removed the intake to clean up the engine bay a little bit.

20171224_165419.jpg

Edited by 82bhp105nm
Adding info

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