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LittleBlue!

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Everything posted by LittleBlue!

  1. My zzp midpipe arrived, my oilfeed and fittings arrived, my oil return and fitting for the oil pan arrived, my radiator fan also arrived. I started test fitting my midpipe exhaust and it looks great. I will have to cut a bit to fit and maybe even weld but all of the parts are here and it is easily remedied. I also finally have a welder so I have more flexibility. I installed my aftermarket radiator fan for more space and tested it using HP tuners. Here is a video showing how powerful the fan is on each setting and how much HP tuners can do.
  2. Not sure what year you have (or how much that matters) I found this free subscription that claims to have a 2013 spark wiring diagram. http://35.pfotenpower-ev.de/wire/2013-chevrolet-spark-wiring-diagram.html I have not signed up so I'm not sure if it is legit or will help. I recently used Ac Delco's subscription to all GM service manuals. It was $20 for 3 days. I had issue with viewing some of the schematics but got all the info I needed. If you go that route the diagrams should be included. They may have been blocked on my cell/comp. If they are for you I'm sure an email to support would get
  3. Thanks to someone on this forum, I got a 3 day subscription for GM service manuals from AC Delco. I looked at both the Spark and the Cruze (both have the e78 ecu). Also, the turbo I am using is from a 2016 Cruze and has the plugs and wires. I believe I am now ready to wire the bypass valve and solenoid. The green wire on the turbo bypass valve goes to pin 32 on the J2 plug on the back of the ecu. The brown and yellow wire on the bypass solenoid goes to pin 63 on plug J2. The other two wires should go to a power source. Once wired and enabled, the bypass valve and s
  4. Yeah, the bolts on the side go straight into the frame and no nuts to keep track of. I bought this material from Noico. It's like a rubber adhesive that I put on the entire back cabin and trunk area to reduce noise. Turned out I had a bad wheel bearing/bent rim. After I replaced those and installed the Noico material it's really nice and quiet. Obviously the majority of the noise was the wheel bearing issue but I think I paid like $35 on amazon for the material and would do it again.This is all covered by carpet. https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insula
  5. Haha no, the original post 2017spark asked about the draining and refilling procedure for the CVT.
  6. I found the info for cvt. I'll summarize it and post. Otherwise, $20 is not a bad price and you get pictures with it.
  7. I think this is what I need. I'm going to give it a shot. Sorry for derailing the post. 2017 Spark, I'll look into your question when I order the subscription if you haven't figured it out yet.
  8. To your point, it doesn't say they aren't included, I just didn't see them listed. There was another similar service that I used when I replaced my injectors but I can't for the life of me remember the site. It was like $15 for 24 hours but it was access to all of the vehicles they covered. I like your sites price and time better. Anyways, I should look more into this. Thanks again!
  9. I removed my back seats and put some noise reducing material down. If you just take the seats out they are incredibly easy to put back. I've taken them out and put them back dozens of times now without issue. I have a 2014. Best of luck and safe travels
  10. Thank you! I've been looking for some additional wiring information and this may have exactly what I need. Edit: doesn't look like electrical diagrams are included. To be continued. Good info though, thanks!
  11. I was planning on moving the radiator more which I may still do but I'm thinking I will buy a reasonably priced radiator fan that is slimmer than the stock fan. I'm not worried about temps as much as gaining space.
  12. I heat wrapped the exhaust manifold. I'm still new to exhaust wraps but I think it looks better than the stock heatshield(not that it would fit) and is probably more effective. I plan on getting a turbo blanket as well in the near future.
  13. I finally was able to get the exhaust manifold to bolt on to the turbo. My uncle helped weld on the bolt threads and I'm really happy with how it worked out. I still have to move the radiator and hose a bit but I was able to fit the turbo in with the downpipe on for a test fit. The downpipe looks like it will work perfect with the midpipe I ordered and the rest of the exhaust. I will be wrapping the exhaust manifold for heat reduction and start working on the oil lines next.
  14. I noticed driving style was a major factor. Is your dash reading also around 50mpg? Sorry, just read your comment again. Very impressive. My goal is $ per mile and power. I'm converting to e85 and throwing a turbo on. I am excited for the turbo and the CVT combo. I will not come close to the mpg you reached. What are your eco hacks? You could probably use hp tuners for more but it is spendy and 50 is pretty insane as is. You could find someone local with the set up. I'm MN based One potential useful tip is thinking aerodynamics. Those fog light spots where there are just grey inden
  15. I've hooked up my flex fuel sensor just before the fuel rail and wired it to the ecm. The next step is to enable the sensor in hp tuners.
  16. This might sound really dumb but as a last option you could maybe save the plug and cut the wires going to the replacement part and part to be replaced. Then solder the wires going to the plug. Again probably dumb but may be an option. Chevy Beat seems to have some good guidance I would definitely explore first. Best of luck!
  17. I finished wiring the sensor to the computer and enabled the flex fuel sensor in the computer via hp tuners. I will still have to tune the vehicle but there is a baseline that will change based on ethanol content. I ordered a badge for the hatch. The ZZP midpipe I have been waiting for is finally back in stock so I ordered that as well. Should be here by early January.
  18. I feel your pain! I have had to disconnect a few on this car but not this specific connector. Usually, the part that slides allows you to squeeze or push down another catch. I'll see if I can find anything helpful online.
  19. I hooked the flex fuel sensor into the fuel line. I still need to put on hose clamps and wire the sensor. It's located just before the fuel rail.
  20. I bought black exhaust wrap to keep temperatures under the hood low. The first piece I tried was the down pipe. I also used a black sealer spray paint. Not bad for a Chevy Spark.
  21. I have been thinking about this a lot lately. Still no clue where it will end up.
  22. The wire and plug that hooks into the flex fuel sensor were delivered today. It is a perfect match. I was under the impression that it had the metal ends that fit in the J3 plug of my wire harness but it does not. Luckily, that sonic forum provides that information so I will order the rest of the parts/tools that I will need. Unfortunately, I had to order 25 so if you need some, let me know! Only cost $14. Total cost is still pretty low.
  23. My flex fuel sensor was delivered today. $35 and I bought the plug and wire leads for another $12. I still need to buy a fuel line connector removal tool for about $5 and a Male to female fuel line connector. Once everything is hooked up, the sensor will tell the computer the ethanol content and my computer will determine the right air fuel ratio, timing, etc.
  24. Here is a link to good write up on adding a flex fuel sensor to an e78. http://www.sonicownersforum.com/forum/do-yourself-articles/20205-flex-fuel-sensor-install-information.html The original poster installed a flex fuel sensor on their sonic. It explains there are two pins where the wires from the flex fuel sensor that I ordered will connect. In the back of the ecm there are three plugs. J1,J2,J3. The plug we are looking at is J3. On this plug we will be inserting a wire to spot 20 and 34. From what I have read there are grey plugs in these spots when not i
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