LittleBlue!

I pulled the fuel pump basket and noticed the fuel line was disconnected just after the fuel pump in the fuel basket. Amateur hour move on my part, I used too short of a line (stock after I cut it off the stock fuel pump) and it disconnected. I tested the wiring and the pump fired right up. I'm going to hook up a longer fuel line and hopefully the car should be getting fuel.

Just as an update, I have identified the issue that is preventing the car from starting as lack of fuel. Specifically, it is a fuel pump issue. I have been traveling a lot for work so I haven't been able to focus as much on the car. I have dropped the gas tank and I'm beginning to troubleshoot the issue. I believe it is related to wiring. HP tuners has a feature that allows you to turn on the fuel pump so I plan to use that as I investigate the issue. On a positive note, I am getting oil to the turbo. Confirmed by a small leak on the return side. Once I get it running, I plan on

All of my oil lines are hooked up, I've put gaskets on all of the exhaust connections, everything is set to start. I have tried to start it but I'm getting a laundry list of codes in HP tuners. Nothing to concerning but one injector does seem to have a bad wiring connection. I'm going to work through these and the next post should be a video of the car running. Fingers crossed.

If you do determine it is the oil pan, I recommend using a small crow bar to break the oil pan loose. I just took mine off and it was a bit of a pain but with a crowbar you can break the seal from the front. There is no solid gasket but a sticky liquid gasket must have been used. I bought permatex ultra black and put it back on tonight. There was a little panel on the driver's side that covered three bolts holding the pan on. There are three bolts holding that panel on as well.

It doesn't look great but it works perfect and is out of the way of the turbo. The oil feed line screws right into the right side. I'm going to pick up gasket maker for the oil pan and the exhaust as well as a new oil filter and oil. I might actually get to start it up tonight.

Here is the oil switch where I will be connecting my oil feed. I'm going to use a T fitting to tap into the oil supply. This switch has always been an issue for space and was about as close to the turbo as possible without touching. I'm planning on having the switch repositioned with the T to allow for more space. I'll take another picture when it is all done.

I connected the return line to the oil pan. I got lucky and drilled the perfect size hole. I was using a step up bit and checking size as I went but I usually never get it perfect. I drilled the hole high on the side with the deeper section. It looks like it should work great. I need to put the pan back on and cut the line to length. I'm hoping I can hook up the feed line today but I need to look for a T fitting for the oil switch and the feed line. And space is limited.

I finally was able to use a crow bar or cats claw? And I was able to hit the wedge into the seam and break the oil pan loose. I'll be drilling the hole and finishing the return line tonight. I also believe I determined the best (or maybe only?) Option for the source of my oil feed line will be the oil sensor switch which is right in front of the engine near the oil filter. I'll post some pics on that incase anyone finds use in it later.

Pipe from the turbo to the intercooler and clamps in wrinkle black

I painted mine black with spray paint and it looks great. I'd sand the parts that are chipping away to prevent it from chipping after you paint

The first piece under the hood to be powder coated blue is the bracket on the intake manifold. I coated the bolts in wrinkle black

I powder coated a clamp for my charge pipes as a test. I like the color. I'm going to coat a few pieces under the hood for fun and see how it turns out

I bolted the oil return fitting onto the turbo. I had to grind one side flat to have the holes line up perfect. I will still need to find a downsizing connector to connect the return line to the fitting on the turbo. I also connected the turbo to the intercooler with 2 90° couplers I had left over and some left over 2.5" aluminum pipe. I have one clamp left and will need to order 5 more to finish the job. I'm going to connect the air intake filter with a 90° coupler and have it positioned right by the grille that already has airflow. I'm considering cutting a section to

Happy Friday! We're looking at our first real snow storm and possibly -25 ° F in MN this weekend so I'm planning on getting some work done on the car. I finally got my oil return line connected to the fitting that will connect to my oil pan. I put a hose clamp on after this picture. I've drained my oil and removed all of the bolts holding the oil pan on. It's holding on by friction or maybe the gasket but I will remove it later tonight or tomorrow to drill the hole for the return. My goal for the weekend is to finish the oil feed and return lines. My other goal is to start the ca

I ordered my blue (linked above) and did a test on a bottle opener. Here is the blue next to the blue on my interior. I think it's a close match. I'm for sure doing my brake calipers in this color, probably the turbo, maybe my intercooler and a few random items under the hood.

I did this on a 2014 spark which I think is essentially the same. It was brutal. I bought a small swivel ratchet and that seemed to help. I included some diagrams I found online in my turbo write up. I had to take all then bolts off. Three for the fuel rail and the rest for the intake manifold plus the bracket that is in the back of the motor. It can be done but it will test you. Keep me posted, you can do it!

Thanks! I believe they have the same ECU but I will triple check. The computer is used by a wide range of chevy models and years. Hp tuners also has a vehicle list to check what they cover. I'll let you know here shortly. Edit: after looking it looks like yours may have an e83. It looks like 14 was the first year of the e78 for the spark. I'll look into this more and see what your options are. I've seen some comments on the hp tuners bulletin board mentioning e83. I posted a thread asking about 2013 spark compatibility. I'll let you know if I hear back.

I decided I'm going to do my brake calipers in a blue to match my interior and door jams. It will add a little color to the exterior and hopefully will look good. I'll post pics once I get them coated/installed. Here is the blue that I plan to use https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PSB-10056/dark-process-blue

I would agree with your assumption that the computer doesn't consider synthetic. I go with my own schedule and reset the warning when it goes off. That's my approach, not sure if it is "right" but it works for me. I use full synthetic and go beyond the warning.

This is my first attempt ever and first coat. I'm planning on doing another coat and looking into the brake calipers

For $45 after tax I picked up this larger toaster oven on sale. You need to bake the item being coated typically for 10 to 20 minutes at 400 F. From what I have read, it depends on the powder used and the item being coated. I'm going to try powder coating my yeti mug and see how it goes. Next up will be my brake calipers

I have recently been interested in powder coating. I bought a powder coating gun at harbor freight and with a 20% off coupon, I only spent like $75 with a 1 year warranty. I also ordered 1lb of wrinkle black powder for around $13. I'm interested in maybe doing some parts on my 2014 spark for practice. I think I will end up doing the brake calipers and probably my turbo. In the future I plan on doing my charge pipes but I'm curious if anyone has suggestions for items to powder coat on a spark. Right now my curing oven can only handle smaller parts (old pizza oven) but I

I have a 2014 spark and went with the DC sports CAI. I was happy with the purchase for a few reasons. I believe it was a cheaper option around $150 and it put the intake filter in the fender, far away from engine bay heat. I noticed a nice change in the sound which I think was the biggest change. It seemed zippier in acceleration but I have no way of validating that. For me, if you are going to get rid of the intake box, the intake filter needs to be out of engine bay heat. Installation is pretty straightforward and they use a mounting bracket that attach

I had to shorten the ZZP mid pipe that I bought which was designed for the chevy cruze 1.4 turbo. I picked up a two bolt flange, cut the pipe to fit and welded on the new flange. I used a cheap wire feed welder with flux core wire. This is actually my first real weld since high school. I did a few test lines for wire speed beforehand. It's definitely not pretty but it works and the pipe fits great. I just have to get bolts, gaskets and work on finishing hangers and the exhaust is done.