Alexandre Dubé

Spark Member
  • Content count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Alexandre Dubé

  1. Hey! Sorry to hear about that! You could have a look at some of these videos from ChrisFix, they might point you in the right direction as to where and what to look for! It actually really helped me to diagnose a problem I had with one of my cars: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNhuDCVIydw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRfPupikHT4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yC409CU7mU8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDIlwbx0B-s I hope this helps, Alexandre
  2. Hello! If someone is interested, I found an article about the CVT-7 from Jatco, it's quite an interesting read (attached to this post). Also, you can find that the transmission contains 6.21 US Quarts (or 5.88L) of fluid. This was confirmed to me by my dealer, which I called to have a quote for the job. I've also attached the schematics of the transmission system on the 2016 Spark, if someone is interested. The transmission fluid on my 2016 Spark will be due to be changed in the next year or so. I live in Quebec, Canada and the total price came to 650$ CAD (including about 3 hours of labor). I also called a couple of local shops, and the lowest I could find was 500$ CAD, but they did not flush the transmission fluid from the torque converter. As for the cost of doing it myself, I calculated it thusly: 7 US Quarts of transmission fluid: 150$ CAD (https://www.amazon.ca//dp/B01E6JSI7C) Drain plug gasket: 4$ CAD (https://www.rockauto.com/?mfr=ACDELCO&partnum=25191105) Filter: 21$ CAD (https://www.rockauto.com/?mfr=ACDELCO&partnum=TF923) Filter gasket: 4$ CAD (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/?mfr=ACDELCO&partnum=25194694) Oil pan gasket: 33$ CAD (https://www.rockauto.com/?mfr=ACDELCO&partnum=25191102) The shipping from amazon is free, but there are taxes (15%). The shipping from rockauto is about 45$ CAD, but I have to calculate 23% import fees (15% tax + 8% import fee). The total cost of doing the change by myself would then be around 300$ CAD, which is a lot cheaper than going to the dealer or my local mechanic, and I know that it will be done correctly. Anyways, I hope this will help if there are other people who want to change the transmission fluid by themselves! Alexandre 1 Disassembled Views_Document ID_4109175.pdf CVT-7 specs.pdf
  3. Hi! I think these might be for unscrewing the tire valve caps? They seem to be the right size and shape. I don't know why someone would need a tool for that though...
  4. If the alternator is fine and the battery also is, to me this means that there must be a short to ground somewhere in the car that drains the battery overnight. You could have a look at this article that explains how and what to test with a multimeter to try and find the short: www.popularmechanics.com/cars/car-technology/amp5859/how-to-stop-car-battery-drains/
  5. Also, about the oil change interval... That's a hot topic :P Ddepending on who you ask, you will get different answers. The owner's manual says that the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year, every 12000km (7500 miles) or within 1000km (600 miles) of the oil change indicator turning on, whichever comes first. I'd also recommend using full synthetic oil. In my case, I live in a very cold area and harsh weather, so I prefer to change it twice a year: Once in fall (mid november) with 0-W20 and once in spring (around april) with 5-W20. It's probably overkill, and I could be okay with changing it only when the indicator comes on, but I prefer to be safe than sorry later on (I plan to keep my car 10+ years). I hope this answers your questions!
  6. It honestly depends on where you live. On my 2016 Spark, the owner's manual recommends 5-W20 oil, except if you live in a very cold climate. The most important thing to remember is to buy oil that is certified Dexos 1 Gen2. You can find an up to date list of certified engine oil at this link: https://www.centerforqa.com/dexos-brand2015/ Here is what the manual says about the oil type: Use SAE 5W-20 viscosity grade engine oil. SAE 0W-20 may be used as an alternative. Cold Temperature Operation: In an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −29°C (−20°F), an SAE 0W-20 oil may be used. An oil of this viscosity grade will provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures.
  7. Since switching to LEDs, I've had no problem with the DRL, the exact same bulbs light up as before (ie, the low beam). The parking lights also light up the same. I've done no reprogramming/rewiring whatsoever. I juste took out all halogen bulbs and replaced them with LEDs, simply plug-and-play.
  8. Even if those are the OEM LED lights for the Spark, I don't think they would be compatible with the Canadian/American version. The Mexican version of the car is quite different (mostly in terms of safety features I think). Also, since LEDs work quite differently from Halogen bulbs, you'd have to know how everything is wired inside the Mexican version. Are there drivers / Is the LED light connected directly to the onboard computer? Or have they been installed like "aftermarket" led headlights? For those reasons, even if you could find a way to purchase those from Mexico (and import them), I wouldn't try to go the OEM way. After a lot of research (there is a lot of confusion/confusing standards for car light bulbs), here is what I went with for a full LED conversion of my Canadian 2016 2LT Spark: High/Low Beam: H13/9008, White, 1xPack of 2 Fog Lights: 2504/PSX24W, White, 1xPack of 2 Front Turn Signals (SRCK/CK type only or you'll blow your fuse): 7443/7444/W21W/T20, Amber, 1xPack of 2 Rear Turn Signals: 7443/7444/W21W/T20 (Standard type), Amber, 1xPack of 2 Rear Brake Light/Taillight (standard type): 7440/WY21W/T20, Red, 1xPack of 2 For the turn signals, I also purchased a pair of load resistors in order to prevent hyperflashing. Front Side Marker: W5W/T10, Amber, 1xPack of 2 Reverse Light: W19W/D030/T15 White, 1xPack of 2 License Plate Light/Backup Light: W5W/T10, White, 1xPack of 2 Dome Light: W5W/T10, White, 1xPack of 2 Trunk Light: W5W/T10, White, 1xPack of 2
  9. Yep, I have a 2016 LT model with the CVT, it does the same. I think the gearbox for low speed sometimes has trouble engaging/disengaging. You can refer to this thread I created a while back, with schematics for the transmission.
  10. Hello everyone, this is my first post :P I bought a Spark 2016 2LT a couple of months ago, and I wanted to check if what happens after a hard braking is normal for a CVT. It happens sometimes, but not always. I've found a similar case to mine on a Nissan Forum. So, when I do a hard braking on my Spark (emergency stop, or because of a sudden stop in traffic), and that I come to a complete stop, if I press the accelerator immediately after, I have almost no power and the car feels sluggish. Then after a couple of seconds (sometimes less, sometimes more) it will accelerate. Sometimes after a hard braking, it will accelerate but very slowly. Sometimes not at all. I was wondering if that was normal with a CVT. My guess is that after a hard braking, the engine uses compression to help stop the car, and the CVT stays in "high gear". When I press the accelerator immediately after, the car computer hasn't had the time to adjust the CVT ratio and that is why there is a delay in the acceleration. However, that can sometimes be dangerous: for example if I need to accelerate quickly after stopping, and am unable to do so. On a similar note, I've found that when coasting, if I'm at 40 km/h (25 mph) or lower the car seems to brake on its own as though it was automatically using engine braking. Has anyone had something like that happen with their Spark? Is it a feature of the car? Thanks a lot for your answer!
  11. Hello Fellow Spark Owners! I just found out today that a recall was in effect by the NHTSA for the 2016-2017 chevrolet spark regarding the front passenger airbag deployment (Canada and US only). Source: https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls?nhtsaId=17V307 The files attached to this post are taken from the above-mentioned website. NHTSA_Safety_Issues.pdf RCAK-17V307-2294.pdf RCMN-17V307-7791.pdf
  12. Good news everyone! The Weathertech mats for the front row are finally available for the 2016-2017 models (non-EV) in the US and Canada: http://www.weathertech.com/chevrolet/2016/spark/floorliner-digitalfit/spark-ev-model/no/
  13. I too own a 2016 2LT with the sunroof. I've sometimes heard of the rattle you speak of. The fix I found was to close the sunroof completely and then re-open it. It seems to fix it...but I can't tell you why :P Also, I've found that the rattle doesn't always happen: I think it's mostly linked to my speed, but I'd have to do more testing.
  14. There's a Technical Service Bulletin for an issue similar to yours (linked to this post). Depending on your model year, it might still be covered under warranty. 16-NA-094_Document ID_ 4287507.pdf
  15. Yes, there's a TSB released for that (linked to this post) #16-NA-94. It might be caused by a false/weak contact. You should have your dealer check it out for repairs (under warranty). 16-NA-094_Document ID_ 4287507.pdf
  16. Well, these are not pictures, but actual diagrams of the door panels for your 2014 Spark. From what I've been able to see, there's really no room at all. You also have to be careful, because there's a sensor in the door for the side airbag (refer to #20 on the third picture, you see the sensor location in the door panel on the last picture): (20) B63LF Side Impact Sensor – Left Front – Located inside the left front door I hope that it might help a bit.
  17. After a bit of researching, I've found the complete TSBs from GM (linked to this post). @Retired old Gearhead Also, I've found a lot of technical information about the Jatco CVT7 if you're interested (including the inner workings/ gear ratios and etc). I've zipped (Transmission.zip) it and linked it to this post also. Maybe someone more knowledgeable than me can make use of it! 16-NA-107_Document ID_ 4481927.pdf 16-NA-108_Document ID_ 4454099.pdf 16­NA­109_Document ID_ 4484722.pdf PIP5328A_Document ID_ 4360226.pdf Transmission.zip
  18. Not really related to the original post, but since you mentionned you have a 2016 CVT, there's a TSB that has just been released for the powertrain of the 2016 Spark:
  19. Well, it looks like there's a TSB related to the Powertrain released for the 2016 Spark. I found it on the NHTSA website: Source linked here Manufacturer Communication No.: PIP5328 Component(s): POWER TRAIN NHTSA ID Number: 10075742 SUMMARY TO BE PROVIDED ON A FUTURE DATE. In fact, there are 3 other TSB that have been released related to that car this week (I've check last week and it wasn't there). For the 2 TSBs related to the MyLink radio, I've experience some of those errors. Manufacturer Communication No.: SB-16-NA-109 Component(s): STEERING NHTSA ID Number: 1007843 "THIS TECHNICAL BULLETIN PROVIDES A PROCEDURE TO INSPECT THE STEERING GEAR FOR A NORMAL CONDITION OF GREASE OR SEALANT ON EXTERIOR CASE OF GEAR DUE TO THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS." Manufacturer Communication No.: SB-16-NA-108 Component(s): ELECTRICAL SYSTEM , EQUIPMENT NHTSA ID Number: 10078427 THIS TECHNICAL BULLETIN PROVIDES A PROCEDURE TO REPROGRAM THE RADIO TO CORRECT A CUSTOMER CONCERN OF BUZZ OR STATIC NOISE FROM RADIO AUDIO SPEAKERS, ANDROID AUTO CONNECTION ISSUES, INTERMITTENT BLACK SCREEN OR SIRIUS XM REVERTS TO XM1 CHANNEL INTERMITTENTLY. Manufacturer Communication No.: SB-16-NA-107 Component(s): ELECTRICAL SYSTEM NHTSA ID Number: 10078420 THIS TECHNICAL BULLETIN PROVIDES A PROCEDURE TO REPROGRAM THE RADIO TO CORRECT A CUSTOMER CONCERN OF RADIO INOPERATIVE, BLUE SCREEN, AM CLIPPING NOISE, HD ON/OFF STATUS NOT RETAINED IN STATIONS, TIME LAG ON TRANSITIONS, NO AUDIO WITH INTERNAL AMP, PARK ASSIST SYMBOL POSITION WRONG IN REAR VIEW CAMERA.
  20. Thanks for the answers! I'll try to film the issue so I can show my dealer what I mean, because they'll want proof. I don't know yet if they have a fix for that. I've looked around on the web, and from what I can find the 2016 Spark uses the same transmission model as in the previous years. As you said, The model is Jatco CVT7 JF015E. I've found the product brochure on their website (File attached to my post). From what I can see on the description, I think this problem is related to how the gearbox on the CVT works: "Utilization of the gear for switching between moving forward/reversing as auxiliary gearbox CVTs originally have planetary gears used for switching between moving forward and reversing. Those gears are utilized as an auxiliary gearbox through adding two-step shift transmission elements. On top of the original CVT function of shifting from low gear to high gear, this new function makes it possible to shift from first speed to second speed while driving. In order to ensure that the driver does not experience any discomfort by shift shock, the pulley controls shift change to minimize gear ratio variance before and after shifting. This high level of control technologies for carrying out smooth two-step shift change is one of the important advancements CVT with an auxiliary gearbox. JATCO’s high level of control technologies and knowhow cultivated over many years makes this new product possible." So if the pulley is slow to adujst after a hard braking, that might be the reason why there is a loss of power, because the pulley cannot "tell" the gearbox to engage in first gear? I don't know if I understood that right :P Jatco CVT7 - JF015E.pdf