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Everything posted by 1LoudLS

  1. three thoughts on this. 1st: I hope your amp doesn't really need the current requirements that full 8 awg wire would provide... since that wire is CCA instead of real copper wire, it will have a higher resistance and larger voltage drop. everybody should really stay away from copper clad aluminium wire. 2nd: Was your wood speaker adapter not thick enough on its own? just trying to understand why you made your own adapter AND also used that thinner plastic adapter. if you do have a depth issue then its fine, but if its not needed, I would just remove it. 3rd: Not 100% sure of what the climate is like up there in Montreal, but I hope it stays desert dry there all year around. you should never make speaker adapters out of wood, especially MDF or particle board. wood will absorb moisture and start to fall apart after a while (MDF and particle board will degrade at an even faster rate). Most cars (smaller, cheaper cars are even more effected by this) do not seal very well between where the base of the glass and the top of the door meet and tons of water will slip right through every time it rains. this problem is actually one of the biggest reason for OEM speaker failures in GM cars/trucks aside from people just turning the radio up all the way. its way better to use ABS or PVC for this, they can also often be found at most home improvement stores.
  2. here is a 2nd example, while sad the pictures do not still show up, the instructions are still good.
  3. luckily, even while cars have improved a long way over the decades, adding and amp and sub to a factory radio has not changed one single bit (other than there being more choices for parts to use) in the last 30 years... step one: run a power wire from the battery. Step two: run a ground wire to the body. Step three: depending on your amp's inputs, either install a LOC (Line Output Converter) behind the radio or just run speaker wires tapped into the rear speaker's feed to the amps high level inputs. Step four: run speaker wire from the amp to the sub/box Step five, either turn on signal sense or run a turn on wire to a wire in the car that turns on with the key. OR step one: take the car somewhere and pay somebody to do the work for you. this has been done many many times and there are more than a few threads on here showing exactly how to do it and what is possible. just one example:
  4. if you want to get to the speaker wires to get high level inputs, the best place is right behind the radio where all of the speaker wires are in the same location(as many channels as you want, one place to take apart) the worse place would be to take off the door panels and get the wire in each door, mostly because getting wire OUT of the door is going to be a royal pain in the ass.
  5. the only problem is that by using your phone, you are losing the biggest benefits of sat radio, and that is being able to listen to it non stop coast to coast. with your phone, you are at the mercy of your phone companies service area. if you have Verizon, then you will be OK for most of the country, but still plenty of areas with poor/spotty or simply no service. also you will need to be careful on data usage if you are not on an unlimited plan.
  6. when we did Spacecowboy's car, we went through the firewall right where the clutch goes through. if you have a manual, you will probably need to drill your own hole and add a grommet/snap bushing.
  7. on option I always recommend is instead of making your own adapters like Michael did, you could buy a pair of speaker harnesses so that everything is just plug and play. you also wouldn't have to worry about getting the polarity of the speaker wrong or out of phase from the others. https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-9301-Connector-Mitsubishi-Vehicles/dp/B0002BEUZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490802796&sr=8-1&keywords=Metra+72-9301
  8. Ive sold and installed 30-40 of them since they have been out and have yet to have one that didn't work as designed. I cant see 4 bad units in a row getting through QC and getting shipped. should be a happier with a larger full sized sub and separate amp.
  9. Thats crazy you got two bad units in a row. glad its working good now.
  10. its actually extremely easy to design a great OEM infotainment system... you dont! you let the people who do it the best do it for you. at this point, its silly for any OEM car system not to support CarPlay or Android Auto. that is most drivers out there. pay them what ever licensing fee they ask then save the money from having to have your guys figure it out. the Mylink is so close to being real good, I will say that its a good bit better than anything Ford's Sync2 systems have. it would probably be enough to keep me from changing it out as it does have a good clean sound that can easily be worked with.
  11. as recommended above, please let me stress that you use a plastic panel tool, the dash plastic is a very soft compound and can be easily scratch or damaged if you use something metal like a flat screw driver. #ProTip
  12. the battery is definitely not a problem if the starter works and you don't have problems starting the engine and driving it every day. the 10-15 amps that these super efficient digital mini amps need to operate is a drop in the bucket as to what everything else in the car needs and uses all day. for instance the car is designed to run totally within manufacture specifications with something plugged into the power port/cig socket that pulls either 10-15 amps of power and thats even at night with the high beams on in the rain with the wipers going in the cold so the heater is on full blast with the seat warmers on. the charging system on this car has no problem supplying enough extra juice to run the Hideaway or any other low powered system like it if the power wire is ran and fine, with good proper connections, the next thing that is 100% as important as the main power feed would be the ground. not only do you need to have a good solid connector, but the contact point needs to be clean bare metal, so whether you use a new screw, or an existing bolt like a seat or seatbelt, it is extremely important to remove all of the paint on the body where the connector makes contact. it the sub sounds great/fine at lower volumes but then cuts out when the volume is at 10, it does sound like the amp shutting down or going into protect mode from a voltage drop somewhere. if both appear to be good, then a multimeter would be very helpful to track it down quickly.
  13. spacecowboy has been running a 500w+ RMS amp for about 3 weeks short of a year now, off of the stock alt and battery without a problem. a 400w amp at constant full blast would only pull about 30 amps... and most music has a pretty wide dynamic range, so you are extremely unlikely to be drawing that kind of power anywhere near constantly. as with any amp I also wouldn't recommend running it at full tilt constantly anyways. especially when just idling as most alts (even HO alts) don't make near full power at idle. I definitely would not recommend running a dedicated second battery, even at only 30ish amps of power, a battery doesn't maintain a constant voltage, it starts around 12.6v at full charge and then drops as the battery is depleted, without the alt constantly charging the battery it wont take too long before the battery drops below what most car electronics are designed for, a good amp will just shut down or go into protect mode,. a less than good amp may just burn itself out. also charging the battery every day just for maybe 30-60 mins of sound will get very old. you also don't want to add a second battery tied into the same system as it will just add one more item for the alt to have to keep power supplied to as batteries don't create power and just store it, the only thing that is going to create the power is the alt (well technically not create but convert. if your super worried about it, and you want a longer amount of reserve time (time you can listen to the radio with the engine off) then you can replace your existing battery with one better suited for such. as for specifically a deep cycle battery, unless you are wanting to listen to the stereo to the point of a dead battery all the time (and risking damage to other electronics that are running) without causing damage to the battery, a deep cycle may not be your best choice.
  14. well I didnt really mean in the boot or door itself, more just pointing to the exact set of wires I would be talking about. when grabbing any wire that goes into the door itself, I would prefer to remove the interior trim (the actual "C" pillar panel) and grab the wires from right there. they will run from the bottom up to that point. not really something I would want to do without at least a wiring diagram and a probably a test meter.
  15. I mean I can respect keeping the OEM radio if its good, and for Spacecowboy's system and use it was fine, but when you are saying that you are picking this car BECAUSE of the radio that doesn't do what you would like, keeping it just doesn't make as much sense to me.
  16. you could also just buy a spark with the basic sound system and then buy a kenwood or pioneer radio that supports both carplay and android auto(I recommend kenwood if you are constantly going back and forth between the two), and then have exactly what you want instead of having to work around stuff to try to get it close to how you want to use it.
  17. while I haven't had a 2016 roll through the shop yet, Id be extremely surprised if the radio didn't come out by popping out the trim around the radio, but I would be careful as the plastic panels on the dash and around the climate controls are made out of very soft plastic, you will want to only use plastic panel poppers/trim removal tools, and not any metal tools which will leave pry marks. you could also grab the signal from the speaker wires at the "B" pillar where the harness runs up and through the door boot, however this is a slightly more risky approach since there are commonly SRS sensors for detecting side impact either in the pillar or doors.
  18. if higher octane was truly responsible for burst of acceleration, why would they be random? it either does or it doesn't.
  19. my money is on it not being Voltswagon/Audi...
  20. I'm sorry, but anybody that thinks they are getting any better performance from higher octane fuel is just arguing against science. you are no different than people that still think the earth is flat or that we haven't been to space. they oblivious work in a profession that is far different from that of engineers that design engines, engineers that test those engines, technitions that built or work with high performance engine building or that work in engine tuning. those people actually work in science, they are actually doing the math and need to know what the difference in octane actually is and what it means during the combustion cycle. in a modern fuel injected automobile, for the most part, the compression ratio, air temps, and how aggressive the engines calibration or "tune" is, are what dictate what octane fuel the car needs to be fed. none of that is really that high in the case of the spark, if the compression ratio was high enough, fuel with lesser octane would ignite too early causing pre detonation which will eventually(or very quickly depending on the severity) destroy your motor probably by throwing a rod right through the block. if the air intake tempature was hot enough like it was being compressed by a turbo, that added with too much compression would cause the air/fuel to ignite to early causing............ but with ambient air not being compressed before being fed to the engine means that wont be a problem causing you to need a high octane fuel. in regards to engine tuning, if it was aggressive enough be having a lot of spark advance, then you would need a high octane to keep the air/fuel mix from igniting too early causing............ but luckily the GM engineers though of that and when the knock sensor starts to detect pre detonation, it retards the timing enough to keep that from happening and preventing the motor from blowing itself apart. they also know that the spark is not a Z06 and build the engine for efficiently not full on performance and therefor tune it to walk a balance of longevity and efficiency. the stock tune is very mild and as long as your your meeting the minimum requirements, the PCM wont need to pull any timing to keep it safe, but it also is not pushing the edge and after the minimum is met, it wont push harder than its programmed to do. now if the spark had an aftermarket tune, then the tuner would likely push the timing up a few degrees making use (and requiring) higher octane. but without that, there is truly no benefit to a high octane fuel, doesn't matter if its 91, 92, Corn E85(which is really equivalent to over 100) or VP racing 114, all that extra octane is not making your bang any more powerful in your low compression engines. long story short, you want the precisely controlled spark from the spark plug, not the inconsistent heat from the compression cycle to ignite the air/fuel mix. and if that precisely controlled spark is not programmed to take advantage of the benefit of higher octane fuel, then there is no more power to be made, their is no more mileage to be made, there is no measurable difference to be found. your engine will only suck so much air in on its own, that air will only have so much oxygen contained in it, that oxygen can only allow a very specific amount of fuel to be burned with it. octane changes none of that #SuckSqueezeBangBlow #MathAlwaysWins #BecauseRaceCar
  21. I have to agree, with the upper dash OEM speaker placement, the location is near perfect for great sound. if the treble is lacking, it is due to the lack of quality in the replacement speakers... aftermarket speakers will have their own tweeters that are actually matched with the mid range. as long as they're quality is good, there should be no problem with them kicking out plenty of crisp clear highs. adding more mediocre tweeters will only over power the balance and not deliver good quality sound. its best to just get very good speakers from the start that already have great tweeters on them. its always super easy to make everything louder but it takes the correct choices to make something actually sound good
  22. honestly if your that worried about it, just leave the factory speakers in there...your never going to find the official answer you want to hear because Chevy's(and every other manufacture's) stance is that their system is perfect as designed and everything/anything aftermarket is terrible. I would never wire the two the speakers in series just to increase the impedance, having one side hooked up is going to sound bad, too much of today music is recorded in stereo (well pretty much all of it) and some parts of the music are either only on one side or the other ( for instance lead guitar may be mostly on the right channel and lead guitar may mostly be on the left channel) not to mention, having a channel not hooked up to anything at all can definitely damage an amplifier (especially one that is built so poorly it cant handle a 4 ohm load) also if your that worried about it, you could even get a 4 ohm "dummy load" resistor to wire to each speaker in series to drop it down(or would it be to "raise it up") to 8 ohms (keep in mind that they will probably need some kind of sink setup as they will get very hot then again, you can just do what every other person has done and just use regular speakers.
  23. wrap your key (all but the blade) in tin foil, and try to star the car. if it starts, then you don't have transponder. tin foil will block the RF chip from being able to read so if the car wont start, then it does have a RF transponder system.