1LoudLS

from past experience with other cars (GM and otherwise) that have a very basic sound system is that the rear door most likely have the wiring in place, but just does not have any speakers in the rear doors. also, if you were thinking of just adding new speakers, it probably will not be as easy as that... chance are, since you radio does not have a fader control to fade the sound from front to back, that radio is not likely to have an amplifier for those two extra channels, you will probably have to add an amp to drive any extra speakers you want to add, or replace your radio with one that do

honestly, I've had a lot of people bring me different no name Chinese head units, while they may be feature rich and do more than most. almost everyone of them has had serious quality issues, the buttons always feel cheap as hell and are easy to break, the screens look terrible and have very poor responsiveness, the processors are always terrible and laggy as heck, and worse yet, the quality of the amp, DA converter, and sound processioning is terrible, sure they will play loud, but anywhere above 20% there is just a ton of distortion. I have yet to see any Chinese units that I would feel co

I think it sounds amazing! but I may be a bit bias on the subject...

#1 the parts you choose (as shown above) dictate whether or not your OnStar remains functional #2 you can see the parts in the links and video to see what exactly is replaced. #3 if you have the OEM USB connector, you can usually find the right shaped adapter on Monoprice to get it to plug in, if you do not have the OEM USB port, then this is one of my favorite accessories to use. http://www.amazon.com/PAC-USB-DMA-Dash-Mount-Adaptor-Accessories/dp/B012PSPRR0 basically, you just drill a hole in any panel (that has enough depth behind it) then it sticks through and plugs the hole and can giv

qouted from another post: you would be better off buying this kit at a minimum http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-3309B-LC-Single-Installation-2013-Up/dp/B00DLEY9VI as it comes with the data module to integrate with the vehicles CAN system. but that is the most basic data module, 1st it wont work with onstar if you have in (and plan on retaining it) and 2nd a radio that expensive (double din kenwood nav) it would need a few extra wires ran through out the car to maximize all its features. this would be a better choice http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUI5J6O/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_

then if you didn't buy the kit, how did you mount the radio? just by cramming it into the hole and hoping that it doesn't fall out? keep in mind that the OP also is taking about wanting to install a Double Din radio which is twice as tall as your radio and wont work with the factory base radio dash plate. so he would need to have the dash kit to even allow the radio to fit... so if your spending over $500 for a radio, and have to have a dash kit to make the radio fit, why not just buy the dash kit that comes with the harness and just do it right with out damaging any of the factory wiring.

never seen electrical tape thats black on the outside and white on the inside... did you just use duct tape?

you would be better off buying this kit at a minimum http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-3309B-LC-Single-Installation-2013-Up/dp/B00DLEY9VI as it comes with the data module to integrate with the vehicles CAN system. but that is the most basic data module, 1st it wont work with onstar if you have in (and plan on retaining it) and 2nd a radio that expensive (double din kenwood nav) it would need a few extra wires ran through out the car to maximize all its features. this would be a better choice http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUI5J6O/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lp

how large is 4ch amp? have you checked to see if it would fit under one of the front seats? lately I've been a huge fan of ultra compact 4ch's out there, super efficient and small enough to fit behind the dash board in almost every car so no worrying about how much space they take up or where you can fit them since they will literally fit just about everywhere.

not to mention, it literally takes all of 10 more minutes to tuck the wires under the side trim panels, or 30 mins tops just to unclip the side panels and tuck them under the carpet next to the OEM wire harness where its hidden and safe. and yes the "through the door jam and fender" power runs are crazy dumb and dangerous... we had two different cars come through the shop where the wire had been pinched every time the door was closed, sooner or later it wore right through the wire's insulation and of course, neither car had a fuse in the proper spot and had burned up the wires almost burning

yes, this is exactly what you need to do, bring the wires up to the top of the kick panel, then run it over toward the center of the dash to the radio, use zip ties to secure the wires to other OEM harnesses under there. just make sure to be careful around moving part (steering shaft and pedals) and sharp edges.

no, you wouldn't have to build a floor... you could mount the amp to the very bottom (I would also go as close to the seats as possible) , then using a knife, trim the foam to fit around the amp, the foam would still provide the floor really comes down to what amp it is. as far as the back of the seats, I'm sure it would hold a small amp with out problem, just be care full when putting the screws in for the first time to make sure they don't get stripped out.

like pretty much every box... the one reason I can see why you wouldn't want to do that is if you ever need to remove the sub to have more storage space... one set of speaker wires is a lot easier to remove vs all the of the amps wires. if that is not a concern, then screwing to the box is both simple and easy.

well if your spark is like the one I worked on all last week, then there is no spare tire, just a big hole a lot of foam, and a small pump and screwdriver. was more than enough room back there for even a few large amps, or in our case an amp, L7, and its box. should be no problem to trim some foam to make room, hopefully it is also a very efficient amp and wont create much heat needing a lot of air flow.

funny, I use mine just as much in the hot sunny summers as I do in the cold snowy winters...

there is a much easier way of doing this, just install a standard alarm system like a Viper or Compustar, then add on their telematics module (either Smart Start or Drone respectively). for example, my car has a Viper alarm (with remote start) and a Smart Start module... long story short, I can start, lock, or unlock my car from anywhere, literally unlimited range. it will also text my phone if and when the alarm goes off, for people really worried about their car getting stolen, there is even an option for GPS tracking, you can pull up a map and see where your car is anytime.

many options for adding remote start... while for a remote start installer with a lot of experience, this car is very easy, for a DIY'er with little experience, it can be tricky as it is very different from most older cars. one big issue is, that the manufactures that make the systems require any authorized retailers to also do the install and that is the only way they will warranty any of it. a side effect of this is that most places that are not authorized retailers, have to acquire them some way other than buying them from the manufactures, and all too often the systems are refurbs, and

I believe what he is talking about is some companies make a kit to convert the car from standard turn key, to a PTS system (Push To Start) like the Cadillac and larger Chevy offer. honestly, if this is what you are looking for, I usually do not recommend them to much, while fun and cool, if the car was not designed from the ground up to offer PTS, then converting usually doesn't work as well, also these kits are not made by the larger main brands that have a lot of experience in integrating with modern CAN BUS systems in these cars. and with as integrated as the systems are inside this car,