1LoudLS

next to no one makes 8 ohm speakers (for cars) 98% of aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm with a few being 2 ohm. 4 ohm speakers wont have any problems, if the factory radio couldn't handle it, all of these threads about replacing speakers with be loaded with people talking about how their radio blew up. not to mention as in installers, I would probably be out of business if all the speakers I put in burned up factory radios every time I did it as there are a lot of cars with 8 ohm factory speakers.

when I designed this build, being able to sit stuff on the floor on top of it was in the plan since day one as SpaceCowboy always has a couple of heavy bags full of tools that sit on top of it. since there is so much space under the floor that is wasted by all that foam instead of a usable tire, I cant see wanting anything that would take up even more space up on top. low, hidden, and completely out of the way is the only way to go! http://chevysparkforum.com/topic/3749-8-kicker-l7-with-kicker-ix5002-in-spare-tire-cavity/ not to mention, this box was a lot more complicated than it needed to

we chose to go with pioneer TS-D series speakers for SpaceCowboy's build. with the exception of 2 pairs of 4" speakers (since they didn't offer 4x6" in the D series) and they were pretty much a direct bolt in with a cheap plastic speaker adapter we ordered at the same time. the only thing odd about the fronts was we reused the plastic cups around the OEM speakers but because of a slight clearance issue with the terminals, we had to use a heat gun to bubble it out just a bit in one spot. even just off of the OEM touch scream, it sounds extremely good, with great clarity. the gets bumped up to

I also prefer the look of a good OEM system, however even the best "premium" sound system are always still fairly lacking. that is why when we designed SpaceCowboy's system, it looks 100% OEM, even a fellow spark owner wound not be able to tell that it wasn't until after they turned it on or went looking for the giant space wasting chunk of foam. however, a system that good also deserves to be shown off for anybody that may be interested in that, so we also wanted to make it so that you can remove the OEM floor cover and then see the work we put in to it.

before doing that, I would at least try to see if it works with a different phone, cause if not, then there is no reason to also leave your phone.

did your phone or that app recently process an update recently?

also, if you're going to go through the trouble of designing and printing speaker adapters, why not just go go with 6.5" speakers? it opens you up to the most common size and plentiful choice of options, and with such a small car, the extra inch of cone will definitely help deliver ore and deeper midbass. honestly, I would like to see 5.25"s on the dash and 6.5"s in the back!

honestly, most full range speakers have a stiff enough suspension that playing them "free air" is not going to be an issue with them, at best a "sealed" door panel has a pretty large volume, not to mention no doors are actually sealed, as they have drain holes at the bottom, the window seal is always pretty loose and then on the inside there are huge holes in the door panel itself that are just cover in a thin sheet of plastic. the problem with mid bass in a spark is that the speakers are just too small, even with your printed adapters (which look damn awesome by the way) the biggest woofer i

from the looks of it, is that the XP750 AGM battery? the reason I ask is because even though its a sealed battery, when mounting them inside the cabin of a car, they should be placed in vented (to the outside of the cabin) battery box... while not very common, any lead-acid battery whether sealed AGM or just a standard flooded battery can and will vent very explosive gases in the right circumstances... one of which being a specific type of alternator failure (we are talking about over working a relatively small OEM alternator that was never designed to have the kind of overhead required to

those are not all amps... for instance, one of those items, the 360 is a sound processor, another one of those items is a battery.

looks pretty good, I can only imagine how good it sounds.

well since its not a base model and it has the full speaker package, an amp wouldn't be needed (unless you are shooting for an excellent sounding system) the two biggest things that are going to affect the sound quality are going to be changing the speakers out for a quality set to get better and clearer mids and highs, and then a small subwoofer to add in the low bass that smaller speakers just cant reproduce on their own. (good news is that the new spark finally got their stuff together and are building them with normal sized speakers instead of the tiny speakers in the older models) depen

Mylink is the/a name of Chevy's interface, just like CUE is for Cadillac, in this case, it is the interface to the radio. however, just because it has the same name, doesn't mean there their isn't multiple versions of the hardware for different version. also the beauty of a CAN bus in new cars is that one system can control other systems that are on the same bus. the easiest way to know for sure would be to remove the radio, and check out the harness on the back, you would be able to see if it had the wiring in the harness going out to the car, you would also be able to look at the connector

I wouldn't at all be surprised if there were differences between the radios in different models, if the radio doesn't even have the option to fade in it, then it is very likely that it does not have the internal requirements to drive any more speakers... base models are all about getting the car fro as cheap as possible, and if Chevy can save even just a few dollars by being able to put a cheaper amplifier inside the radio, they are surely going to do it as when your are talking about shipping as many cars (often world wide) as a company as large as GM is, a couple of dollars here and a coup

the issue here is that since the radio only has outputs for two speakers (two channel internal amp), there really isn't a good way to wire in and add just a pair of speakers properly. you could wire them in series with the front speakers, but then the increase in resistance will drop the volume down so much that there really wouldn't be gaining anything in adding them (unless doing it solely for passengers in the rear. but if you wired them in parallel with the front speakers the drop in resistance would cause the current to be way too high and (with the vast majority of OEM radios) would lik

you will skip the spark as an option because the most basic model offered does not have rear speakers, even though you are also contemplating a slightly larger fully loaded car? I mean I get that if you want something different for your next car is cool, but seems odd that its basic offering being too basic would be something worth noting.

and even then, I would not expect very good mid to low bass with those rear speaker locations being open to the main cabin unlike a rear deck lid in a car with a trunk. I agree with everyone that think adding a small sub just cant be beat for adding fullness to the the sound and filling in where those smaller speakers just cant reach.

for what its worth, I personally would look into getting a better/different amp for driving subs... first off that is a class AB amp, it is not as efficient as a class D amp, this is really a big deal in such a small car with a tiny battery and a smaller alternator, a class AB amp will waste more electricity and create more heat. both are bad second, it is a 2 channel amp, and it can be a little more tricky to find a sub to match up well, I usually recommend class D mono/single channel amps for driving subs (whether its 1 sub or 5) lastly, that sub (if Im finding the right one on line...) s

when using a high level input on an amp, the source unit (the OEM stereo) does not even "see" the amp, it doesn't know it is there. everything else will play just as it does now before the install. the amp is only tapping into the speakers so that it can take a sample of the sound/signal then it cuts it down a bunch to a level that the ampflier's circuits can handle and the the amp can take that very weak signal and boost it back up even higher. doing high level inputs (as long as done correctly) has no effect on the OEM radio as long as the speakers are still connected to it as it is just

his did, so we figured what the heck and reused them with the new speakers.

agreed, active/powered subs are very easy to install, run a wire to the battery, ground it, and run a couple wire to each of the rear speakers. as long as the powered sub has an auto on feature, you wont even have to run a turn on/remote wire.

cant beat it as you know it has to fit perfect!

also, any shop that has the tools to build their own boxes or amp racks would have no trouble making up a false floor like Bluer101 did, his design was super simple and efficient and fit great, some other subs might have been a lot trickier to do, but the size and shape of Kicker's hideaway works very well for this type of fabricated mounting. and shouldn't take them too long to knock out for you. most people think the hardest part would be cutting the shape for the new floor since the only straight line is the side up against the seats, but when I made the cut for SpaceCowboy's false floor,

why does it fall out? is a screw/s also falling out? if so you may need to use a slightly thicker screw, not much thicker at all, just enough to bite into the hole that must be slightly stripped out, unless the screw boss is split or cracked, then you may need to do some repair work with a tube of expoy if is it just slipping past the screw and the speaker is falling but the screws are staying in place? if this is the case, you will just want to use some small washers that are a little bigger than the screws head so that it holds it in there better and they are not able to slip past the scre

not to mention that the KS series have a much better quality of sound vs the CS series, to me anyways the CS speakers sound way to harsh. when setting up the system in SpaceCowboy's spark (the other spark with a 8" kicker!) I recommended two pair of Pioneers TS-D series speakers*, and (for such a small speaker) they sound amazing. now that he has the very powerful L7, he has been thinking about adding a small amp to the speakers to better match them up, I keep recommending an Alpine power pack but we will have to see what he decides *the TS-D's do not come in a 4x6 for the rear speakers, so