KillaX

Maybe I'm being a little picky over this but... What do you guys use to clean the rims? I just have the basic generic ones and I noticed it looks like my car has a lot of tan-brown dirt on the wheels. Freshly after a carwash everything looks great and the wheels look like they never got washed. I attempted to lightly use a power-washer ( not sure what they have on these wheels ) and it did nothing. Someone told me WD-40. Which worked, with a lot of scrubbing. So before I go crazy and work on the wheels for hours. Do they make a chemical you just spray on and let it sit/do the work, then pow

Mine i can pinpoint enough to say its front / front left of the car. External. Hear it easier when the windows are down. Ill have to really look into it and knock around more when it warms up..maybe under the hood too. Isnt the battery.. Thought maybe someone would have experienced similar i noticed the plastic gaurds have push-in plastic rivots. So maybe one popped loose somewhere when snow hit the bottom..hmm. 15F weather doesnt incline one to climb under the car xD

I was wondering if anyone has ever experienced similar...as i cannot figure this out at all. I want to suspect it started up..ever sense i slowly backed up over a pile of snow that was JUST high enough to scrape under the car. If im driving around. And take a turn ( commonly right turns is when i can repeat and hear it 100% of the time ) i notice a rattle sound. It doesnt sound like metal on metal though. Its kinda quiet from inside the car. But when i take the turn.. slowly, not a BUMPY turn..just a nice smooth turn..i hear something rattling. I have noticed the same sound if im

Accidental double post

Im in interest of this as well. Im getting to the point i may just buy it, as sure..300 dollars. But i look at the prices my college books use to be...300 is cheap for what your getting. Specially these service manuals...like 3 phone books worth of print. Plus. I would enjoy just seeinf how everything is made. Tho if i try to buy one. They do mention having to call this number to file tax exemption if I live in Michigan..apparently

Hello all, Been awhile..due to projects / work / holidays. I'm in need of wanting to know a couple things about this car, as its a bit different from what I'm use to seeing. Usually I see a big fat cable that goes directly from the alternator, straight to the positive post of the battery. In the case of the spark, I do not see this. It snakes way behind stuff. Then at the battery theres this stupid costume fuse-block, which seems weird to me. No direct wire from the alt, to the battery. Is there a reason for this? Does this car like...pass the power to some regulator/controller, that cha

System is always being upgraded, though I'm slowly coming to the point of 'this is fine enough to make me happy' Currently running JL Audio C2 5.25's in the front and 6.5's in the rear. Pretty happy with it so far, The speakers on a 400W 4-CH amp can get STUPID loud, which is good, because it means my volume level is far within their happy medium. Still running the 400W JL 10" sub in the rear. Pretty good sub, low profile, can hit hard enough to feel it on your hair a little, and any attempts at recording with my phone, results in bye-bye audio and hello fart-like sounds. I'm still planni

Yeah its hard to say. Bettery isnt stock, replaced with a 1250CA rated powercell and its voltage is always the same when turned off. So that shouldnt be the case. Plus i would assume the battery ligjt would flash if that was it..and it was just the entine light flashing while the car was shaking. There was no unusual sounds..im more placing it on some misc fluke.. combination of all the belts engaged and stuff sitting for awhile after basically being covered in water. Coulda slipped possibly and took a moment to grab back on. The most noise i hear is when i go from neutral to reverse. When

Well. 2014 spark, CVT, technically there's a recall from awhile back about the CVT reprogramming. My dad ( 2014 CVT as well ) did it, and claimed it made his car drive worst, where it takes forever to get to 40mph, etc. Mine is a lot more snappy & quick accelerating...doesnt take long at all to get 0 to 45. So long ago we figured we'd wait to do mine, as its always done fine and worked flawless, unlike his. Last week friday it was raining/flooding very hard. Enough that a lot of my drive home was random pull-arounds from puddles on the road. Hot humid day, so I was running AC + Recirc

Its personal taste. Having a 10" sub in the rear makes them pretty useless, and give 100W fronts, they'reloud and clear enough to full the space and sound the same, as if i fader the fronts to -10db just to hear the 6" rears. Ive gone a few weeks with no rears and honestly noticed no difference. I dont agree with the super audio nuts out there either but. I do prefer to have all sound infront of me and the sub just fills the car. Gives a rave feel, speakers are all in front of you. So thats what im after. I dont listen to 4 channel surround music. Just 2. I still have, and run rear

It can vary i think car to car. For example: 2014 car, Was bought brand-new when I got it. No crashes, no hard-breaking, regular driving at 27,000 miles so far to date. 98% of the time it will accelerate from a stop, pretty quickly. 2% of the time it will be sluggish and have a mindset like "Uhhhhh....oh...you want me to go? ummmmmm.. okay!!!" and rpms go from low to like 3000-4000rpms suddenly, after moving like 10ft at slow speed. MOST of the time, it'll just take off nice and quick when commanded to. I also notice with my car, around 30-35MPH, when im on a road going from 0-55 leavi

Considering how compact these cars are, i kinda figured there wouldn't be any room for anything inside..and that the plastic is likely less than an inch away from the metal bits. I figured if i want to have door speakers, ill probably have to do a typical car audio fabrication method of taking a glassfiber mold and making a custom panel that can attach right on top of the existing panel. Because the whole cup-holder area is recessed in, this is possible to do, without putting speakers in the way of the drivers foot/leg. Its a hassle and requires you to know how to craft..but thats mostly fi

Curious, for anyone who has popped their door panels off, what the insides look like. I'm taking some modification ideas into account, and I'm just curious if someone happens to have one on hand, from work they've done, if they took a picture. I know how they come off, as I've found pictures from ebay auctions showing what these panels look like front and back. I'm just trying to figure out if there's much space behind them, if if the plastic panel is pretty much butted up against the metal inside the door. Considering the idea of door-speaker additions. I learned I have the option to buy v

As another small update to this project, I put the 6" JLs in the rear, full-range. I know in the car audio world, You will find a lotta people who say "Its all about front stage -- Shouldnt need rears at all unless its for back-seat passengers" But everyone has a taste. I dont go for a "concert" feel. Where the sound is all coming from the front-stage of the stadium your in. Being of younger generation, my taste is in EDM -- Rave scene, where sound commonly comes from all corners of the room. So in the car, things are fadered/delayed so the sound has a more open-room feel, and feels like it

Thanks, I'm really glad it worked out, that theres enough room in the side trimming and such...to run the cables so the cab doesnt have anything going under the mats. No risk of snagging cables, no risk of moving seats resulting in cables getting pinched.. It mostly just sucks that this was a dynamic build for me, and a lot of new things to me as well. First time ever doing car audio modifications. So I had no idea how to remove trimming/covers and made the mistake of using metal screw drivers at first. So stuff like the speaker covers, have some marks due to that. Obviously now I use proper

Progress update as of 7-20-2016 Got the additional stuff in the rear. Everything still covers up & looks fine / still serves as full-space storage I gave up with the 4" and decided to drop in 5.25" in the dash. Upon removing the covers, I found the "grill" is sized for 5" speakers, However the actual holes exist for a 4" speaker. Funny enough, a 5" fits perfectly under these covers. I had to make a custom tool ( razor and dremel to cut teeth on the blade ). This allowed me to cut the holes in the dash ( using the supplied stencil ) with no mess, just big hunks of plastic. I then

So. As an update to this thread. I'm now experimenting with the "JL Audio TwK" which is suppose to give me a lot more control of my sound system, and cut down on some knobs and such. I decided to go about putting things in "easy reach" so, I now run my knob/indicator right on the headunit panel. It works as a system of presets..So you can tune things by your radio quality, or AUX IN ( phone ) quality. Set EQs, crossovers, and all that jazz. The LED works as an indicator to show what preset your in. Since the knob is also a buton, it allows you to program the knobs, so I can have volume

Ahh alright. I'll have to look into it before I actually do any physical cutting. I got some JBL 5's sitting aside, Coxial, that would go great there. Basket built into the design, I'm sure it would give me a much more clear/cleaner/louder sounding front stage, compared to my 4" JBLs. I think I'm fine with my 5.25" NVX's in the rear, those are power-house speakers that weigh 5 pounds each due to the magnets, I wouldnt want that in the front, thats a bit of weight xD Sounds like you basically just cut a hole, snipped the tabs off, and put adhesive down to hold the speakers in. Will see I

Some time ago my dealer mailed me & my dad a recall form, for the CTV basically saying it needs to be reprogramed to reduce issues with harsh "shifting" conditions. My dad had it done on his spark, and claims it made his car take a LOT longer to accelerate. Going on a 45mph road, it takes a good distance to go from 0-35 without basically flooring it. I did not do it to my car ( yet ) and i can get to 45mph pretty quickly. I never noticed acceleration issues unless i step on the gas, flooring it almost, to dart out in traffic. On rare occasions it'll act like its stuck in a low-speed and

Do you have any pictures of the fronts? I'd love to drop 5.25's in the fronts but i didnt think that was physically possible to fit at all, because the hole for those speakers is so dedicated size it seems. I forgot to mention too. I run the digital processor on my Mylink, which corrects the signal and all that jazz. It has a button ( for phone use ) that bypasses it, so there's no delay when talking to people on the car's system. The difference between bypassed vs processing is like day and night.. you couldnt pay me to ever have my car ran without the Digital processor, just sounds so muddy

Right right. I've have thoughts ( and still occasionally desire to ) putting a thick clear acrylic plate in the back, just so you can see all the interworkings of the system, just by opening the rear. I have a digital processor shoved in the glove box, mounted, which i also decided to make it more useful by adding a phone holder + USB charger in there, so I can dock my phone ( or a spare junk one ) in the glove box, it can charge, while playing music. I could have shoved this away, as its just a processor with no physical buttons.. I didnt want to run 4 channels to the rear, and have a wire

Heya. I wanted to add I gave this a shot. I didnt touch any of the bootup avi files or anything. I ended up copying a systems folder and started playing with modifying the images used to display on the radio. Starting basic/simple for now. As long as you save it as the same file type, its fine.. I opened one, 8-bit .BMP. I saved it as a full color 32-bit BMP and it accepted it. Its funny how you can see the electric-spark files, battery charged icons. And its kinda clutter as to what files to alter. For example, theres some animation files where they have 3 copies of every file. BMP PNG an

I dont blame you. The 'ONLY' mod i made to my car, is drilling a hole in the front ( hiden ) for a bass-volume knob, and 4 holes in the glove box. visually, everything is 100% stock looking. I personally like the looks of the stock mylink / trim. The metra kit flat-black looks horrible to me. So I went a more expensive rout, which was connecting a 32-bit digital processor to the outputs of the 'mylink', and feeding that to an amp in the rear. I ran brand new wires for all 4 speakers ( stock wiring still exists ). This was all hidden under the trimming, which is all snap in/ snap out paneli

Thanks for the info, 1LoudLS. I would love to put 5.25's in the front. If the front dash was just a flat piece of plastic, with no moldings right under the speaker hole, I would just make a 5.25 to 4.00 round adapter, and slip it through the glovebox pocket, and mount from the underside. Sadly, theres plastic molding around those holes for support..This makes it next to impossible to do this. I rather have that look 'stock' than plug in my own grills. Usually people claim rears arent needed when you have a sub. All about that front stage. So with the sub, you dont need the speakers to pr

Heya. So. I need someone that knows a thing or two about audio design. My friend has a spark. We have tried over 6 speakers so far for his car, and it seems like they all distort pretty easily. The stock actually distorts at a higher volume, than aftermarkets. Pioneers, JBL, JL Audio, etc. He refuses to get a sub -- thinking they're hobbile things. Has anyone ever found something that actually WORKS decently? Most cars, the stocks can have a bit of bass tone to them. But, they run 5-6 inch speakers. In my car, even a 5" speaker distorts pretty easily. My only other thought is -- Most vehic