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Retired old Gearhead

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  1. Love
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from Pink222 in Tires cupping and trashed at 22,000 miles?!   
    I really was not sure whether to post this, but better to be prepared with accurate info so as not to get blindsided by the dealer. The wording of the actual warranty coverage can be a bit confusing. In summary it states the "Drive system coverage includes all internally lubricated parts, bla bla, and bearings, etc,etc. What they refer to are the many bearings other than wheel bearings and goes on to state: "Excluded from the powertrain coverage are all wheel bearings"..etc,etc.
    Although it is possible to damage a wheel bearing during wheel rotation..it is VERY unlikely and impossible to prove. I think the way to approach this is 'very carefully'. By telling you the bearing issue was in fact a 'tire cupping' or alignment issue when any good mechanic would and should know it was a wheel bearing, they misled you. Not informing you it was a bearing issue is also a safety issue as you could have just taken them at their word, continued driving and then have the bearing seize, possibly resulting in an accident when you loose steering control. So from a safety point of view you have a valid argument. If they deny knowledge that the bearing was defective then you have a valid argument that the service personnel involved were too incompetent to be working at a GM dealership on safety related issues. (Wheels/tires are safety related and eg, a radio is not). They will counter with the mantra of "wheel bearings excluded from warranty". At this point your mantra should be "Safety Issue" as they put you into a vehicle they knew to be unsafe due to the bad bearing they should have informed you about. GM, and in fact all car manufacturers take safety issues much more seriously than customer satisfaction and this is your mantra to stick to: 'safety'..that they put you at risk. If at this point they will call out their 'heavy guns', the smooth talking service manager and/or the even smoother sales manager who will, most likely, offer you some free oil changes, etc. hoping you accept this to settle the matter and hoping you are not aware a bearing/hub change will cost you $500+. At this point you have the upper hand as they are admitting to some responsibility. As attractive as a few oil changes may sound, I would not accept this and clearly state your mantra of 'safety' & 'incompetent' that will be reported to GM HQ and you have all the documentation to send them. When they do their little huddle to decide what to do and the word 'safety' & 'incompetent' gets tossed around they will most likely try one more incentive and if you stick to your guns of telling them you will contact GM reporting the incompetent mechanics and the bearing safety issue they will most likely offer to cover the labor for new bearings/hub. Now that you have your foot firmly jamming the door barring a full free replacement, you are in a position to insist on a no cost replacement or a letter goes out to GM. Managers are well trained negotiators and hate to lose, specially under threat, so try, at this point to be pleasant... eg: "I appreciate your concern about the safety issue and the offer of the free (incentive), but I really don't want to risk my safety by driving on bad bearings". The bottom line is always $$. A bearing job will not put the dealer out much $$ as they get the hardware for very little and the labor is a zero $ write off. I have had to go that route more than once on previous vehicles to have non-warranty items replaced at no cost and sometimes it's hard not to lose your cool, but once it turns into a shouting match..they will not back down.
    If they keep insisting the bearings are OK, then just tell them you trust them and will continue driving, but if the bearing fails and you have an accident, well, it will come back on them. That being your final word, will probably sway them to say they will re-inspect and replace if necessary, giving them an out on admitting then and there that they are at fault (thus saving face) and the bearing issue will indeed be discovered after the subsequent examination. An apology and free replacement will result and for them it is a win since they do not have to admit incompetence or risk an issue with you having an accident and them having to deal with the Ins. company lawyers and GM HQ getting involved.
    Just some info from someone who has some experience in that area that may help you negotiate with some expert negotiators. Be polite but firm & logical and I really wish you the feeling of satisfaction at out negotiating the experts and saving a pile of money in the process. Right?
  2. Like
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from MoonArchr in Replacement Battery for a 2014 Spark LT   
    I use the same battery....Good value and no issues with fit/install and function for the last year or so.
  3. Like
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from MoonArchr in Replacement Battery for a 2014 Spark LT   
    Just take the measurements of the battery with you and find one about the same size at about 375ah..no need to get the exact size as there is a bit of room at the height dimension as well as length...lotsa batteries out there that fit..even one for the Volks passat etc.. Also if the current battery has a size group # like H-5 etc..just use that. I would not waste money on a fancy performance battery because you just don't need that.
          Wal-Mart has both good and excellent batteries that will fit...Check the battery finder book at the battery section at the store. Spark does not need a hi-power battery as it does not need a lot of power to start etc...I have used their "EverStart-Maxx" both in cars and marine and they have a 5 yr warranty and not expensive. If you want to spend more, they also carry name brand and performance units that will fit....OK..sounds like an ad for Walmart..and maybe because I have some of their stocks you should go there......Nuff said about that...
  4. Like
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from thismarks in Axle nut torque spec   
    140Lbs rear,... 145LBs front.
  5. Like
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from aguim in Who Has the Most miles on a 2016 Spark?   
    Nice job Matt..always good to get the first oil change done early..gets rid of the new engine break in aluminum particles that end up in the oil/filter..now that that's been cleared out you can go to maybe 5-10%...use synthetic if you want the gas mileage and engine life. I think the new all aluminum 1.4L is a good engine with consistent materials between head and block..so a longer head gasket life due to less lateral expansion friction and equal heat absorb/dissipation...VVT design is an unchanged proven design..OK..TMI..'Nuff said...
  6. Like
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from SuzieSpark in Tires cupping and trashed at 22,000 miles?!   
    Us old guys have mostly observed and learned from 50yrs++ of driving and managing to build up a mental library of issues and resolutions. Most issues, whether a car or computer, etc can be best resolved using process of elimination thus eliminating the 'known good' components leaving the rest as possible causes...Right Bobby?
  7. Like
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from Ajax in Spark myths   
    Actually 'Big Bob" was a bit stubborn and with embedded ideas about newer tech. Very much the traditional mechanical guy he was knowledgeable on pure mechanics, had some good (and some bad) opinions and his posts about CVT's were pretty well spot on...Just thought he needed a defending since he is no longer on this site. I do, however get your "Big Bob is back ? LOL"..and yup..The thread is kinda 'LOL'. Removing a perfectly good stainless muffler with a pipe is, well..what can I say..
  8. Like
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from Ajax in Spark myths   
    I reset the second trip meter to zero whenever the oil life monitor drops one %. The oil life monitor is checked almost each time I put the car in 'Park' so I can get an accurate idea of how many miles I drove between a one% drop. When I drive in cooler weather for very short trips, I get about 45mi per 1% drop. On longer trips when the engine is mostly driven at operating temp I get about 95mi per 1% drop. That's the math that shows the oil life monitor takes mileage, ambient, rpms & engine temp, etc readings to determine the distances between a 1% drop. It does not do any form of actual oil chemical quality analysis but it does take the above parameters into consideration to calculate what the oil condition should be given the activity the oil is subjected to. The algorithm is based on a constant that the oil is 5W20 conventional oil and the variables are the engine operation at various temps, etc as mentioned above. Using synthetic, conventional or a different weight oil will make no difference to the calculations since the math is calculated on the assumption that 5W20 is used as the only common, fixed constant factor.
    I have over 70Kmi on the Spark and change the oil with Eneos 5W20 synthetic and a good quality filter. The oil and filter are changed when the 'Oil Life' indicates about 5-10% depending on the color of the oil at the time. It usually falls somewhere between 6,000 and 7,500 Mi mostly driven in warm conditions with engine up to temp. I have a similar oil monitor on a newer Range Rover and also check it in the same way with similar results. My mechanic has sent out an oil sample after 6,500 (10% left) to be analyzed and came back with good chem properties and about 1,500 mi life left. That's the math and I interpret that as the 'Oil life Monitor' working as advertised.
    As far as the back pressure 'valve' in the muffler tubing..it is in fact a pressure loaded 'baffle' that moves to varying degrees to allow or slightly restrict exhaust flow to equalize back pressure at different flow speeds/pressure generated by engine RPM and operating conditions. This baffle is found only in the primary muffler....That's the math and facts...'Nuff said..
  9. Like
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from LittleBlue! in CVT slipping and Dealer won't look at it   
    That is not an issue ANY car should have unless some things are not working properly.
  10. Like
    Retired old Gearhead reacted to LittleBlue! in 2016 Spark Upgrades   
    Tuning is what would allow you to change what the computer does in response to the new parameters. There are options out there that are compatible with the spark. Hp tuners has 2014 to 2017. The Spark's computer (e78) seems tricky to me but there is some decent info out there.
     
    Here's an example: there is a maximum air flow (lbs/hr) set in the computer. If you go beyond the max with forced induction the throttle body will close to stay below the max. With tuning software you can just change the maximum. 
  11. Like
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from PScott in Overflow tank issues   
    Excellent analogy Bobby...I covered this exact stress factor due to bumping/vibration in a previous post. This would not be an issue if the tank and material were designed with that in mind. Having a metal tube insert in the coolant return area causes more expansion differential than a tank with common material. It is my understanding that the new tank design now available for the Spark, Sonic and Cruze do NOT have the metal insert in the coolant return location..common material but not sure if the plastic is a different grade to withstand the hot/cold cycle that will deteriorate the flex of the plastic material...Still, it has obviously been noted and perhaps corrected by supplier to the tanks to GM. I still believe that although no recall is needed, failure should be covered under some kind of notice to dealers.
  12. Like
    Retired old Gearhead reacted to LittleBlue! in What coolant temperature range your Spark runs at?   
    Gearhead, your statement is consistent with what I see from my vcm scanner, highest temp I saw was 216 F.  Runs between 200 and 216F on my Spark. 
  13. Like
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from LittleBlue! in Overseas front bumper   
    I had my rear bottom insert taken off, re-aligned & replaced by the dealer when the car backed me into a cement parking barrier.
    I watched and apparantly 2-4 screws/bolts and the rest clamps on white inserts that pop off. They had a GM proprietary tool to pop it off that applied even pressure on removal from the clips. He said it was to avoid bending/breaking the clips. I would hate to deal with clips, but if you're mechanically inclined or can put stuff back together once it's apart, I'm sure that once you have a look you will find it pretty well self evident as to what needs to be done. In my experience when dealing with clips it's always harder to re-assemble than to pull it apart.
    BTW: The dealer had an info sheet he refered to..Maybe find a friendly dealer that could print that out from their manual computer.
  14. Like
    Retired old Gearhead reacted to Ray Dockrey in 2013 Spark FOB key holder broke   
    Mine did it. I just bought a new remote, programmed it to the car, and then swapped the key part. I got the remote off of Ebay from a Chevy dealer for $30.
  15. Like
    Retired old Gearhead reacted to Ray Dockrey in Recommended Spark Plugs   
    Is your car indeed a 2016? unless you put an insane amount of miles on it why are you even looking at spark plugs. 
  16. Like
    Retired old Gearhead reacted to Mrsparky in Recommended Spark Plugs   
    Eric,
    This is a GM world car.  The plugs are NGK Iridium IFR7X7G
    They shouldn't need to be replaced for a good long time on a Gen3 Spark.
    https://www.ngk.com/learning-center/article/202/how-long-do-iridium-plugs-last
  17. Like
    Retired old Gearhead reacted to GammaRadiation in Recommended Spark Plugs   
    You guys are racking the miles. I have just under 19,000 in just over two years. Its always good to see someone else putting as many miles on a car as I have planned before I sell it. I plan to never have to replace the spark plugs, that'll be a good diy job for the teenager that will probably buy it as their first car.lol
  18. Like
    Retired old Gearhead reacted to Bobby MSME in Oil change........   
    Save your receipts for buying the oil & filter, in case dealer gives you hard time on warranty. 
  19. Like
    Retired old Gearhead reacted to Shinobi777 in Turbo Project   
    Glad to see you're still following through with this man . Hyped for the end result
  20. Like
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from LittleBlue! in Turbo Project   
    Nice work..looks good so far.
  21. Like
    Retired old Gearhead reacted to LittleBlue! in Turbo Project   
    I finished mock fitting the charge pipes  from the intercooler to the throttle body. I need to order one more coupler but I used the stock boot for a test fit. Moisture got into my camera lense so this was the best pic I could get for now.
     

  22. Like
    Retired old Gearhead reacted to LittleBlue! in Turbo Project   
    I started fitting the charge pipes today. I'm going to move the intercooler back (towards the radiator) a tiny bit for a better fit but I'm happy with the progress. This bumper literally snaps off and on, which has made this process a lot easier. 
     

  23. Like
    Retired old Gearhead got a reaction from LittleBlue! in Turbo Project   
    Nice work keeping within budget...You certainly have my respect for trying this turbo mod..to my knowledge no one, at least on this forum, has tried this. Looks to me like you did your homework...keep us up to date..We are rooting for this to be successful. specially with your low costs so far.
  24. Like
    Retired old Gearhead reacted to LittleBlue! in Turbo Project   
    My blow off valve (bov) silicone coupler was delivered today. I did a quick test fit with my bov and the 2.5" charge pipes and everything seems to fit great. I'm still waiting for my 90 degree couplers and then I will start fabricating my charge pipes from the intercooler to the throttle body.  I paid $25 for the coupler, $50 for the bov and $40 for 2ft of aluminum pipe. I'll have to see what I have in clamps and couplers and update the total budget. 

  25. Like
    Retired old Gearhead reacted to LittleBlue! in Turbo Project   
    The adjustable blow off valve was recently delivered. I went cheap at around $50 but with positive reviews. I'm happy as of now. I'm really excited that I may have solved the exhaust manifold situation. I have a T3 flange going to a 2.5" vband at a 90 degree bend. It should work perfect with my turbo and the oem manifold... with some cut and paste. More to come 

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