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  1. Today
  2. Good far as the MAP sensor goes at least. Summit Racing sells the GM 3 bar sensors.
  3. Yesterday
  4. About what I usually do in my 2017 Spark LS CVT. 70 miles round trip to Jacksonville, FL for some Indian food which is not available in my town. Cross country trips are much better in our Chevy HHR. We did 7000 miles in it from Florida to Wash state, then Sun City in AZ and back to Florida. Passed through majority of American states. The worst roads and rest stations were in Illinois.
  5. Last week
  6. In the US we only got the spark for the 2013 model year and forward with the 1.2l s-tech engine from 13-15, and a remodel for the 2016 model with the 1.4 ecotec n/a. The early 1.2s had pcv issues that were solved by a recall, the 13-15 has a problem witb the coolant reservoir which cracks at one of the fittings and some of the cvt cars seem to have problems with the transmission operating smoothly, (which in my opinion most of those are just picky drivers comming from more expensive vehicles) I owned my 2014 for 3 years, bought it used and it was a dealership loaner car before i owned it. Only repairs done were ac recharge on warranty, 1 ac flap cable under warranty, coolant reservoir cracked, and one battery. I traded for a ford fiesta because I disliked driving automatic cars and i needed the trunk space.
  7. The transmission cooler in the radiator leaked so instead of trying to flush the transmission, I got another transmission out of a 3,000 mile wrecked Spark and swapped it out. Back for sale in a few weeks at $6500. Pictures and details at:
  8. Photo #145 shows a whole TRANSMISSION ! Did you have to put a new one in ? Why ? (we'll probably never know...6 months have passed away...)
  9. Hi Gear, ...3 yrs late but I'm trying lol, Do you still think that 1.4l is a good one ? I've been working on bikes for a while and thought that little 4banger looked just fine, so bought one without much research. How do you rate it now ?
  10. hi Matt, that 'oil level monitor' isn't measuring oil level. It shows the ECU % evaluation of oil quality, based on data from mileage, driving habits, conditions. I don't even bother about it, just change the oil every 5k.
  11. Hi Suzie, Mine has only 6kmi, so very happy they can make it to 100k (this is my first 'american' car ever -- japs only untill now...but found the Spark too cute&simple to resist ! Apparently you've had no major issues ? Is that automatic transmission really 100k troublefree (I don't even trust the jap ones) ? Tell me yours is fine and I'll regret for the rest of my life not having chosen one hahaha !
  12. Bought mine new (1918) a year ago, now at 10,000 km. I had bought jap-only for 40 years, then decided to give 'american' a break (well, american-korean, hey). 10,000 km later, no mechanical regret : 55 mpg @ steady 95kmh , zero oil loss, 5-speed manual now very smooth after brake-in, engine so silent you'd think it's stalled, hell this thing is WAY better than I had expected. I've changed the engine oil twice, just to make absolutely sure the engine has a good start-in-life (nevermang what book says), and trans oil once (same reason). Btw trans oil change is quite easy, with two access plugs behind the left wheel jumping into your face (almost). I've drilled holes everywhere to saturate chassis with RustCheck, so should be good for a while... Heuh...I also took off the Throttle Body, curious as to why its TPS didn't give out a measurable V signal...only to find that it was no-contact-type (had to unweld/weld it back to find this). Well the ECU did not appreciate, so flashed the Mil light for a week...but then everything went back 'normal' after the proper drive cycles were done. Ouf... imagine me going back to the dealer's scanner with a claim... It has toasted its block heater element, I have no idea why as these things should last forever. They'll fix that free, so no complaint (but I still don't understand how such a device could fail so soon). Seems like they've sold a few more around here, hey... Very happy with mine, plan to baby it for the next 10 years. It's as easy to work on as a motorcycle, so I enjoy fiddling around it as well. Anybody else with a 2016+ ?
  13. I suspect my daughter and her boyfriend may have set a new one-way record: Astoria, Oregon to Jasper, Alabama. They had all their stuff crammed in the back for a school year teaching assignment at an environmental education camp. It's coming back -- I assume -- in June.
  14. i have a 2015 spark i just bought 4 months ago the ac button will not turn on i replaced the fuse it worked then when i went to turnthe car off and back on the ac would not turn on again. i dont have a warrenty on it need help to figure out the problem.
  15. Does not sound right to me, I would try swapping that coil to another cylinder to see if the problem follows it.
  16. Are you sure those ignition coils have really failed, or is it the repair shop replacing them as easy fix for misfire? If compression in cyl #2 is up to snuff, then time to check voltage being delivered to that cylinder's ignition coil.
  17. I have a 2014 Chevy Spark and my #2 cylinder ignition coil keeps going bad, i have replaced it 3 times and it keeps going out. Only code im getting is a misfire detected at the cylinder. What else could be causing this issue? Thanks!
  18. So if you had a trunk release button and you activate it, you still have to get out of the car to take things out or put things in the trunk, right?
  19. I have the 2019 Chevy Spark and NO trunk release button. Nerve wrecking everytime i need to put something in there i HAVE TO use the darn key WHOSE FREAKIN IDEA WAS THAT smh
  20. Earlier
  21. So I feel like my car is possessed. For the past week my car has been turning on the odometer and MyLink displays if any of the following actions occur. - Any door is opened (including hatch and hood) - Unlock button is pressed on my keyfob. - Lock button is pressed on the keyfob - Switch is flicked to manually turn off the automatic headlights. In this state the chime will go off with the drivers door open and the Theft Deterrent light is on. Also the engine will not start. My only solution so far is to leave the drivers door open while inserting the key, turning it to the "on" position the back off and removing the key. Everything will turn off since the drivers door is open and I can start the car normally at that point. I've tried unhooking the battery for a few minutes but that changed nothing. Oh! When I turn off the headlights (Car is off) everything will turn back on but a relay goes insane and everything flickers for a second before turning on. I've also tried my spare key to see if it was a transponder issue. The battery is less than a year old and holds 12V while car is off really well. All of this started after cleaning the car out. I wonder if we could have knocked something or if that's a coincidence. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
  22. Hello new here. Just bought my daughter a 2014 Spark 78000 miles (cvt). Husband said it has hesitated when he was driving. Took it and had checked. Suggested that trans fluid be changed (black). Have read some say change and some say don't change. Had anyone charged theirs and if so did you have problems afterwards.
  23. Excellent. Any major repairs along the way?
  24. Finally, got success. I took the 6 screws holding the v shape cover on steering. Tried pulling that slowly. Then stuck as I was not able to pull the top cover. The 4 plastic poles felt as one time fitting in the metal frame. I used the dashboard prying tool (fork shape) to press the poles so these can come out. Again 2 were easy and rest two I took chance to pull forcefully. In short I had to just pull those 4 places. Instead of all jugglery. Inside I feel this is most simple, old school type steering wheel with top & bottom cover. Just 1 wire was going through the wheel to spring coil. Although, I didn't got final result as I was looking way to route a wire to make diy remote for my Sony unit. But yup, it's a great learning for me. I have seen some clock spring online but I stopped here as I am neither good for removing steering wheel, nor I have help at hand with guidance. If someone who have non-airbag wheel and want more pics of metal frame, I will upload.
  25. I finally ran the wideband wire and boost gauge vacuum line through the firewall. I like the placement of the gauges and do not miss the loose wires.
  26. I installed a T-fitting in the intake manifold (white plastic T in picture) to hook up as my vacuum line for the blow off valve and my boost gauge so I know what the pressure is in the intake manifold. Unfortunately, this manifold absolute pressure sensor is not set up to read above atmospheric pressure and the ecu (e78) does not appear able to monitor above 1 bar (atmospheric pressure) This is not an end all issue but it does make tuning for boost a bit of a challenge (especially for a newbie like me) On a positive note, I hooked my boost gauge up and confirmed I am making boost. I'll post a video showing the guage while I drive but on the way home I think it was around 5psi. This was at 4,000 rpm or below and there are some areas where I may be leaking boost so that number should go up. Happy Friday!
  27. I just looked this up as I'm a Parts Manager @ a Chevy Dealership. You have to purchase each part separately and maybe drill holes. I'll know Monday when I get my Base Model 5 Speed as I'm wondering the same thing.
  28. I dont think Oldgearhead is on here anymore. I haven't seen him post in a long time.
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