Kicker Upgrade

[joehornback 5]

You will remove the firewall clutch plate and drill that. You also need to pickup a grommet set to put in that hole. Then run the wire through. If you have a manual Spark then you cannot use this plate. As for pulling up the kick panel, the front has 2 plastic clips towards the front. Then there are three metal clips down the side. You just pull the plastic panel to remove it. The rear has one screw under the seat and a plastic clip. Then there are the same metal clips as front. If you need photos I can remove mine in the next few days. It's really an easy car to take apart than most.

Thanks for all the info. I'll find a way through the firewall.

[Greg_E 211]

There is plenty of room in the factory wiring area, you just need to carefully remove the electrical tape on the engine side which seals the rubber to the wires. It's a tight fit for your hands but it can be done.

[Phil_Can 2]

If someone runs the wires thru a manual transmission plz take pics as you go so I can see how it would be wired to the battery.

[Greg_E 211]

I don't have pictures, but I can tell you that if you can fit your hand behind the top of the strut tower on the driver's side (USA models) you will find two bundles of wires with two rubber boots and a bunch of electrical tape holding those boots to the wires. Unwrap the tape, feed some stiff wire through from the engine side, attach power wire to the stiff pulling wire, and start pulling.

I would not connect to battery, there is an accessory fuse box towards the front of the car that takes a feed from the main fuse box. Attach power to this accessory box, you'll see where if you look. This is the point where I connected my driving lights.

The hardest part of this entire job is getting the tape off of the rubber boot, one of them is impossible to reach, the other is very difficult.

[bluer101 241]

Here is what Greg is describing.

This is my battery terminal, you have to put the connector under the battery adjuster plate as seen in the photo.

[southsidexz 6]

Has anyone had issues with the Kicker Hideaway?? or have suggestions? Please Help.

I installed the Kicker Hideaway, but for some odd reason the First time I connected the unit it worked fine. However I had to run some errands that day and Drove the car with the Sub working. The bass wasn't loud at all. I got to the store and such.Upon returning and turning on the vehicle I notice the Kicker Hideaway wasn't on, I checked the car and it had the Red LED (Note: My car is Stick). I drove home and then checked everything at home, wires, connections, current with a tester and everything is fine. I can't understand what happened. Everything is connected properly, the speakers are working where the Kicker Hideaway was tapped onto.

Anyone has any suggestions? This is the 2nd unit I got, same issue the first time.

Any help would be much appreciated

[bluer101 241]

Have no idea what's wrong with yours. Is the signal setting correct, high level? Or are you using the remote wire? You say red light on the sub or is that a stick thing?

[southsidexz 6]

Have no idea what's wrong with yours. Is the signal setting correct, high level? Or are you using the remote wire? You say red light on the sub or is that a stick thing?

Yes I'm using the High Level. And the red light is on the sub, the power indicator, when it was running good it was blue.

-_- It's been a pain having to deal with it. 2nd unit I get. It's the 1st time I have issues like these, I installed 2 subs with a 4channel amp on the camaro and didn't had an issue at all. It could also be possible that I got 2 defective units.

[WaltK 305]

I don't have this unit, but it sounds like your sub is not getting a signal, that is why your light is red, it is not turning on. Check your wires, make sure your ground is nice and tight, and make sure you have the right gauge wire bringing the juice from the battery to the unit. If your voltage is low, you won't get a signal, pick up the voltage, and you should get a signal and a blue light. These things are demanding, are you running anything else?

[southsidexz 6]

I don't have this unit, but it sounds like your sub is not getting a signal, that is why your light is red, it is not turning on. Check your wires, make sure your ground is nice and tight, and make sure you have the right gauge wire bringing the juice from the battery to the unit. If your voltage is low, you won't get a signal, pick up the voltage, and you should get a signal and a blue light. These things are demanding, are you running anything else?

I checked the wires and everything is putting out the required voltage and signal. The unit comes with a molex connector and has all the wires on it (Power, Ground, Remote Lead-in, Speaker Left, Speaker Right) I ran everything correctly, the ground is tight and secured the positive same thing, Nice and tight.

Nope, I am not running anything else. Everything else is stock.

[WaltK 305]

I am going strictly from memory, I have never even see this unit, but most of them work the same. If you have a remote bass control, shut the amp down and pull it, turn it back on and see what happens, keep the volume on the low side, and turn up any gain controls you have. Is it on automatic turn on? Try it on DC. When you check the voltage are you checking under load, while connected? (true reading) Or are you probing the ends of the plug? If nothing works, it could be a bad unit, I know it is your second, and although unlikely, it happens. Without being there, I am out of tricks. Where did you buy it?

[southsidexz 6]

I am going strictly from memory, I have never even see this unit, but most of them work the same. If you have a remote bass control, shut the amp down and pull it, turn it back on and see what happens, keep the volume on the low side, and turn up any gain controls you have. Is it on automatic turn on? Try it on DC. When you check the voltage are you checking under load, while connected? (true reading) Or are you probing the ends of the plug? If nothing works, it could be a bad unit, I know it is your second, and although unlikely, it happens. Without being there, I am out of tricks. Where did you buy it?

I tried the unit without the remote bass control, still no go. I tried changing the settings and such, yet nothing. It is set to DC since it(the unit) turns on when it receives a signal to the speakers. I did tried the 12V as lead-in but still didn't made a difference

I did checked the under load while connected.

At one point the RED LED on the unit was like flickering to the song that was on the radio, but the light still kept on.

I bought the unit from HiFiSound Connection located in Missouri. They are an authorized Kicker seller.

[bluer101 241]

I can tell you that even when I unlock my Spark or open any door you can hear after 5 seconds or so the sub turning on. Also the light turns from red to blue. Now mind you my radio is not on during this process. I just think the Mylink pre powers up and the speaker wires get voltage in which the sub turns on. Now if I do not start the Spark or turn on the radio within a certain time the sub turns off and the light also goes out.

[southsidexz 6]

I can tell you that even when I unlock my Spark or open any door you can hear after 5 seconds or so the sub turning on. Also the light turns from red to blue. Now mind you my radio is not on during this process. I just think the Mylink pre powers up and the speaker wires get voltage in which the sub turns on. Now if I do not start the Spark or turn on the radio within a certain time the sub turns off and the light also goes out.

I haven't really put attention if the sub turns on when I open a door or unlock the car, but I did notice if I insert the key (no turning) in the ignition the sub turns on. Which is a bit odd. Yet the radio is off.

[WaltK 305]

I haven't really put attention if the sub turns on when I open a door or unlock the car, but I did notice if I insert the key (no turning) in the ignition the sub turns on. Which is a bit odd. Yet the radio is off.

Not really odd, everything runs through those speakers, door chimes, directional signal clicks, and god knows what else. I wish I could help you more, but I suspect the unit itself is defective. It sounds like you did everything right. I'm not familiar with the place you bought it from, I usually go with Crutchfield, they are pricey, but it's like buying an insurance policy, they have techs available 24/7, these guys are good, they know what they are doing, and they have all the manuals, and if they can't straighten it out, they cover shipping back and forth. And this is for as long as you own it. I know your frustration, over the years, i've been there. I'd give it up for now, when you get too frustrated, you start making mistakes, wait till morning, and give the vendor, or the manufacturer a call, they will take care of you, Kicker is a solid company.

Let us know how it goes.

[WaltK 305]

I can tell you that even when I unlock my Spark or open any door you can hear after 5 seconds or so the sub turning on. Also the light turns from red to blue. Now mind you my radio is not on during this process. I just think the Mylink pre powers up and the speaker wires get voltage in which the sub turns on. Now if I do not start the Spark or turn on the radio within a certain time the sub turns off and the light also goes out.

That is how it is supposed to work.

[southsidexz 6]

I just remembered something "important" from my experience with setting up the amp and subs on my Camaro.

I remember that I connected the Boston Acoustic amp to power and ground and the rca cables to the harness to the factory amp. However I recall the amp going into protective and it was because I needed a ground loop isolator to ground the speaker wires to eliminate the DC voltage on the speaker wires. After doing that everything worked fine on the Camaro.

Thinking about it made me realize it uses the same concept of turning on, it uses the speaker wires to turn on, the same way as the hideaway speaker.

I think I have an extra ground loop isolator somewhere in the house, I will dig it up and try it.

I will post my results.

[bluer101 241]

It's worth a shot but mine did not need one. Also another member on here has the same setup as me and far as I know no issues.

Edited April 17, 2013 by bluer101

[southsidexz 6]

I'm updating my issue,

I had contacted both Kicker (The Company) and the store where I bought it from. I will say that sometimes it is better to talk to the manufacturer than talking to the store.

Kicker was kindly enough to ship me a new unit directly from them and have them ship the non-working unit I have. They picked up the shipment cost as well, so no need to spend money on shipping, which is really nice. I highly appreciate it.

I had gotten in touch with the store as well, but they won't provide me with a refund... They stated they could "maybe" bend the policy and cover the shipment cost for the return, so that they can ship out another unit.

I decided to go with Kicker as I know I have a better chance of getting a mint unit, rather than getting a faulty one from the store again.

I will update once I get the new unit.

Thanks everyone for the help, hopefully now I get a good unit.

[bluer101 241]

That's nice they are doing that for you. I emailed them before I did the install and they got right back to me. Let us know how it turns out.

[westernpa25 16]

What is the model number for the metra adapters and speakers? I would like to replicate this setup minus the sub.

[bluer101 241]

What is the model number for the metra adapters and speakers? I would like to replicate this setup minus the sub.

I bought these (METRA 72-9300), but after purchase I realized that I got the wrong ones. Not a big deal it was just the wires are backwards. So all I did was undo the pins in the connector and flipped them. But the right part number is, METRA 72-9301 from what I understand.

I was originally going to use a 5 channel amp and a 10 inch sub but decided not to. One I did not need more power draw off a small car. The other reason is if you don't tap all the speakers individually for signal then none of the cars sounds will function correctly.

[southsidexz 6]

Update!

Finally it is working! After getting a new Unit from Kicker, we decided to re-run the wires again and use the new sub (the old one still didn't work, even after the re-run of wires). The new one is working perfectly

It was definitely worth the shot talking to the Manufacturer vs. the Store. Now I will ship Kicker the old unit.

Here are some Pics. of the install, hope it helps (P.S. My Spark is stick)

I passed the Power Cable through the Same hole where the Hood Latch wire goes through, it was the only easy way to get through without having to create a new hole.

This is where the wire comes inside the car. You can see the black wire that's the hood latch wire.

The overview of the wire, I'm passing it through and as much as I can to the side of the kicker

I actually passed both the Power Cable & the Aux (for the Bass Booster Control) underneath the Gas Door Latch, I just removed the two bolts and put the wires underneath

I used a bendable metal strip to pull the power cable from the back side kick panel area through the middle section tot he front kicker panel area

If in case anyone needs to see at the Kicker Panel hooks, or holes where they attach.

This is the Wood piece used to hold the Sub in place and hide everything except the Surface of the Kicker Hideaway. I tried to mimick the one posted here, but it came out pretty good. almost the same Just had to add some rubber strips to the side of the wood so that on Bumps it won't hit the metal of the car (Darn Train Tracks)

Thank You Everyone!!! For the help, tips, and sharing the information on getting this done.

[WaltK 305]

Great, I'm glad to hear all went well, enjoy.

[bluer101 241]

I ended up using foam weather strip from Home Depot on the bottom sides of the wood also. It creates a nice cushion.

I ran the wire the same way down the side. I used a long zip tie to fish the wire past the B pillar. I'm glad everything works good. I have my remote boost set at half and I don't know what it is on the unit itself. I used a test tone of 40 hertz to set gains with the head unit at 3/4 volume.

Need finished in car photos.

Edited April 23, 2013 by bluer101