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I hooked the +12v line going into the kicker hideaway into the radio fuse. So I'm guessing I just need to do the direct line to the battery. And yes i am using the same kicker hideaway. Also I was wonder how did you get through the firewall. I saw your pictures. But just wanted some extra directions. Thanks! 

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Decided to make a separate thread for the upgrade photos. Product Hideaway Fronts Rears Wiring Sub

Hideaway Install

It is real easy to hook up. I ended up buying the Metra speaker adapters so I did not have to cut any factory wires. No you do not need to remove the radio either. There are 6 wires that you need t

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I think mine is less than half, just over 1/4 and no bass boost on the kicker. At my bass knob it's halfway. Then in Mylink it's negative something. I can check at some point. 

 

I would turn all the gains way down to see what happens to rule out the hideaway being bad. Then if it's bad it's easy to swap just the hideaway. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Devin Morton said:

So I plugged in the new sub and I still have the same problem. Any ideas? 

 

Keep the hideaway hooked up and pull the fuse at the battery. Try turning up the volume past 10. Does it shut off?

 

This above will hope rule out a short. 

 

 

Ok, let's go through your hookup fully. 

 

You have power wire wire all the way to battery with fuse by battery. 

 

You have the hideaway grounded at one of the rear seatbelt bolts in the spare tire well. 

 

Rear speaker wires are correctly wired to the high level input. 

 

Now for hideaway settings. 

 

 

Auto turn on set to DC. Switch down

 

Input level high. Switch up. 

 

Phase at 0. 

 

Bass Boost at 0, all the way to left. 

 

X over 120. All the way right

 

Gain. This setting is where you have to play with, but for now set it about 9 am, that about 1/4. 

 

The remote bass boost plugged in and about 1/4 too. 

 

See if you can play the volume above 10 now. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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16 hours ago, bluer101 said:

 

Keep the hideaway hooked up and pull the fuse at the battery. Try turning up the volume past 10. Does it shut off?

 

This above will hope rule out a short. 

 

 

Ok, let's go through your hookup fully. 

 

You have power wire wire all the way to battery with fuse by battery. 

 

You have the hideaway grounded at one of the rear seatbelt bolts in the spare tire well. 

 

Rear speaker wires are correctly wired to the high level input. 

 

Now for hideaway settings. 

 

 

Auto turn on set to DC. Switch down

 

Input level high. Switch up. 

 

Phase at 0. 

 

Bass Boost at 0, all the way to left. 

 

X over 120. All the way right

 

Gain. This setting is where you have to play with, but for now set it about 9 am, that about 1/4. 

 

The remote bass boost plugged in and about 1/4 too. 

 

See if you can play the volume above 10 now. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So still no luck. I even re-wired the entire thing. I'm guessing my battery isn't giving the sub enough power.

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12 hours ago, Devin Morton said:

So still no luck. I even re-wired the entire thing. I'm guessing my battery isn't giving the sub enough power.

 

the battery is definitely not a problem if the starter works and you don't have problems starting the engine and driving it every day. the 10-15 amps that these super efficient digital mini amps need to operate is a drop in the bucket as to what everything else in the car needs and uses all day.  for instance the car is designed to run totally within manufacture specifications with something plugged into the power port/cig socket that pulls either 10-15 amps of power and thats even at night with the high beams on in the rain with the wipers going in the cold so the heater is on full blast with the seat warmers on.  the charging system on this car has no problem supplying enough extra juice to run the Hideaway or any other low powered system like it

 

 

if the power wire is ran and fine, with good proper connections, the next thing that is 100% as important as the main power feed would be the ground.    not only do you need to have a good solid connector, but the contact point needs to be clean bare metal, so whether you use a new screw, or an existing bolt like a seat or seatbelt, it is extremely important to remove all of the paint on the body where the connector makes contact.

 

it the sub sounds great/fine at lower volumes but then cuts out when the volume is at 10, it does sound like the amp shutting down or going into protect mode from a voltage drop somewhere. if both appear to be good, then a multimeter would be very helpful to track it down quickly.

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So I did a little more troubleshooting with the power coming into the amp itself. But I still had no luck. So I wanted to test something; I went out and bought a brand new Kicker Hideaway. Well wouldn't you know that as soon as i plugged that in the sub worked perfectly fine. So it must have been the refurbished unit. 

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4 hours ago, Devin Morton said:

So I did a little more troubleshooting with the power coming into the amp itself. But I still had no luck. So I wanted to test something; I went out and bought a brand new Kicker Hideaway. Well wouldn't you know that as soon as i plugged that in the sub worked perfectly fine. So it must have been the refurbished unit. 

 

Thats good to hear, literally. Lol

 

i don't like buying referb especially on electronics. 

 

So so now you are all set, just follow the instructions in the manual in how to set volume and gains. I also suggest do not use bass boost on the side of the kicker. Leave that at zero. 

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Well so the third unit was not the charm and neither was the fourth. I just gave up on this whole install. The kicker hideaway is probably one of the worst products in my opinion now. Even the best buy geek squad advised me against buying the unit. So I went with a Kenwood 1000W Amp and a Kicker CompS10 Subwoofer. The sound is a whole lot better and it was a lot easier to install!

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Ive sold and installed 30-40 of them since they have been out and have yet to have one that didn't work as designed. I cant see 4 bad units in a row getting through QC and getting shipped.

 

 

should be a happier with a larger full sized sub and separate amp. 

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  • 11 months later...

I have a pre-owned spark and recently took out all speaker and audio system (being LS 2010, its aftermarket Sony xplode system 4" front and 6" rear) as getting some cracking sound on rear speakers. Poor left rear speaker, there is place enough for 4x6 and old owner placed a 6" round, making the rubber support pressed for past 7yrs.

Now, bigger thing I checked pioneer and sony India site and they don't make 4x6.

Someone can please suggest me some reasonable brand which make 4x6.

 

I do feel lack of sub but not want to reduce puny boot space by adding amp and 12" woofer. (We have spare tyre by default in Indian cars so that space too gone). Any suggestions how can I increase little Bass by replacing speaker, rear, I am anyway planning as 6" round can't be fitted properly in 4x6 space.

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On 1/15/2017 at 9:05 AM, Devin Morton said:

This one sounds like 10x better, id honestly recommend going this route. The only trouble I had was with the Remote turn on wire. I had to wire it to the 12v cig lighter in the front of the car. 

Heated seats fuse is a good spot to tap for the remote wire if you don't have a 2lt. 

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