RDJesse 0 Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 I recently attempted to seal the bonded edge of a leaky coolant overflow tank with JB Weld PlasticWeld Epoxy and it started peeling after a week. I'm left with a few questions: - Is it possible that I hadn't mixed the epoxy well enough or cleaned the tank enough for it to properly bond to it? I thought I mixed it fairly well, applied a sufficient amount and left it cure/dry for about a day. - If I get a new tank, would it be worth it to try to seal it before putting it on the vehicle? I'd like to think a new tank would be fine but I'm concerned that it would be just as cheap as the one I'm probably going to need to replace. - Would flex seal tape create a sufficient seal? - Are there better epoxy products for this job? Any advice would be helpful. I'd rather not buy a new tank for a four year old car. Link to post Share on other sites
sparkfanatic 70 Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 The replacement tank I bought is a slightly different design than the original so hopefully it will last . The tank doesn't cost much , the GM list price is only about $42 and you can get one online for around $30. For the cost I think it's better to replace than try to repair . I bought mine online for just convenience of not having to drive back and forth to the dealer to order and pick up and saved a few bucks in the process. Link to post Share on other sites
OneLittleSpark 1 Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 How hard is it to replace the coolant tank yourself? Mine has started leaking and needs to replaced. I've already given 1200 to the Chevy dealer to fix a broken steering gear, so I'm not too keen to give them any more money if I don't have to. Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Dockrey 97 Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Takes about ten minutes if that. Super easy. I bought mine from a Chevy dealer out of Utah on Ebay for $25 with free shipping. You don't need to bleed the system afterwards. Just fill it up to the line and you are done. Retired old Gearhead 1 Link to post Share on other sites
OneLittleSpark 1 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 I was hoping that it would be easy. Is it just those 3 hoses? Remove clamps, remove hose, remove tank, replace? No additional parts needed? Jay Bernal 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Retired old Gearhead 201 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 3 hours ago, OneLittleSpark said: I was hoping that it would be easy. Is it just those 3 hoses? Remove clamps, remove hose, remove tank, replace? No additional parts needed? Correct..Just don't break any clamps and make a note of exactly which clamp goes where..try to keep hose ends facing up to avoid a mess...yes..part you will need is a quart of the correct coolant fluid..forget the name but MUST be to spec as per manual..mix 50/50 with cleanest water you can find..bottled water is good as it contains few minerals and no chlorine..do not use mineral water...Florida tap water is OK..best to let it stand a few hrs for the chlorine to gas out. Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Dockrey 97 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 I just used the premixed stuff. Much easier but less economical. The biggest thing is when you remove that bottom hose be ready to put your finger over the hole as antifreeze will start draining out of the tank. That's where i made the biggest mess. I wasn't quite fast enough getting the hole covered lol. Retired old Gearhead 1 Link to post Share on other sites
OneLittleSpark 1 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Sounds like a plan! I just have to get the tank ordered and give it a whirl. Maybe I'll do it somewhere other than my driveway, just in case I do make a mess lol. Since I noticed it was leaking, I've just been putting this in as needed and will probably just continue with it: Link to post Share on other sites
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