apMechorse 1 Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 Hey all! I've got a 2014 LS and have replaced the front and rear turn signals with Sylvania ZEVO 7443 (rear) and 7443NA (7444 cross reference equivalent; front) and tapped in a 6 Ohm load resistor (equalizer) to the Black and Red wires at the front bulb assembly. Resistor is attached in parallel to the socket, just as every single instructional video says to do, and is physically tapped into the wire, not using those cheesy wire taps. Electrical connection is solid, has continuity and resistance (with the bulb removed) still reads 6.6 Ohms. Turn signal still has Hyper Flash. Any other suggestions? I've been messing with this for days using different configurations and still can't seem to get rid of the Hyper Flash. It's quickly getting to the point where I'm just going to decide to live with it, as annoying as it is. Thanks in advance for any suggestions! Link to post Share on other sites
apMechorse 1 Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 No one? Really? How is this only happening to my car.... Link to post Share on other sites
bluer101 241 Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 I did not mess with any lights sorry. Link to post Share on other sites
Retired old Gearhead 201 Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 (edited) Turn Signal relay unit? Edited June 18, 2016 by Retired old Gearhead Link to post Share on other sites
T-fizzle 1 Posted July 28, 2021 Share Posted July 28, 2021 5 years late, sorry. BUT, this question is ALL OVER THE INTERNET with no answer. Other than "You have to splice a load resistor in the circuit. OR your other option is to change to a different flasher." If you've installed LEDS front AND rear, it is my "understanding" that you need LOAD RESISTORS for each L.E.D., front AND rear, (and Obviously) right AND LEFT. That doesnt leave alot of room on my motorcycle for these big AZz golden girl resistors. Can someone THAT HAS EXPERIENCED THIS please verify? Meaning: Hyperflash remains after installing resistors on 4 corners with ONLY a left and right resistors? My guess is that SOMETIMES THEY STILL HYPERFLASH, and sometimes work perfectly fine. My THEORY is that nobody gives a snap about the voltage/draw of the NEW LEDs versus VOLTAGE/draw of the old bulb system. SOMETIMES, there are enough LEDs to pull enough current when using ONLY ONE RESISTOR per side, other times, with very low draw, you NEED resistors at every new led signal front AND back. The 5 mil YT vids should discuss more about electricity and why this happens, vs some azzmunch splicing into a wire with the worst connecters ever invented. LEDS were the worst invention for the IDIOTS, yet, best for the SALES FORCE. thanks, apMechorse 1 Link to post Share on other sites
GModded 1 Posted December 9, 2021 Share Posted December 9, 2021 (edited) I know this is an old post, but I was lead here by a search regarding colors to tap for the resistors. So if you are looking to add LED turn signal bulbs to your Chevy Spark(My Model 2015) you will need resistors to trick the cars computer into pulling a specific wattage to avoid hyperflash. You will need to tap the black ground wire and red power wires(not blue one) as mentioned in OP's post. I highly recommend VLEDS.com. They are premium quality and I've used them on both cars I own for years. I've tried ebay and others, and they suck as for quality, brightness and life. For Turn Signals, I used: https://www.vleds.com/shop-application/turn-signals-front/7443/7443-50-hv-amber-2.html Cost: $100.00 These are 2-3 times brighter and look amazing. Comes with 2 VLR-6 Resistors with 2 very nice T-Tap connectors. TIP: Just peel back the wire black wire shroud/wrap to get to the red and black wires on turn signals. Edited December 9, 2021 by GModded Link to post Share on other sites
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