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fuses and fuse box help using a higher fuse ok?


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So when I was in my accident the auto body shop installed some air horns for me. They did a really weird mickey mouse wiring job but they work. This weekend I replaced them with louder ones and added a second compressor and third horn. everything was working until this morning, the fuse was blown, easy fix, however I'm sure this will happen again.

the inline fuse cable is screwed into what is labeled B+ on page 10-30 of the 2014 owners manual, it does not say what this is in the manual however (does any one know?) I'm guessing it's for running auxiliary power as it is doing.

I do want to keep running both compressors, but I don't want to replace the fuse every day. What can happen if you go to higher rated fuse? can too much power run through and blow the compressors or the cars electrical system? I put a lower rated fuse 15 like the guy at autozone instructed me to do and it blew right away, like I thought it would. any thoughts or tips before I just "unplug" the second compressor (they are wired in succession) Thanks

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The reason the fuses are blowing is because the horns are putting too much of a load on the wiring. What happens is, when the load is placed, the wiring gets hot, and the filament in the fuse burns, breaking the circuit, so the wires don't burn. Sometimes, putting in a higher rated fuse will let the juice flow, but the wiring can't handle it, it gets hot, and burns. I wouldn't chance it. I would look at the specs for those units, find out what they draw, and rewire with a larger gauge wire, using an inline fuse, directly to the battery if possible. I would totally avoid the vehicle wiring with this setup, if needed, you can always get an aux horn button, or something. On small draws such as leds, etc. you can fool around, but popping fuses is a serious warning sign.

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I had them set up wiring into the horn wires and everything worked, but the auto body place said they tested it and blew the fuse so they wired it all up (it's all over the place in there and all taped up so I cant even see what connected to what. The wire that is screwed int to the B+ spot on the fuse block looks like some of the plastic on the end has melted. Also it looks like that is where a bunch of other wires or leads are attached to so it is a bit concerning that it should not be connected there at all. Still curious what that is.

Anyway so you guys are saying all bad rip it all out and start again doing it right?

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I had them set up wiring into the horn wires and everything worked, but the auto body place said they tested it and blew the fuse so they wired it all up (it's all over the place in there and all taped up so I cant even see what connected to what. The wire that is screwed int to the B+ spot on the fuse block looks like some of the plastic on the end has melted. Also it looks like that is where a bunch of other wires or leads are attached to so it is a bit concerning that it should not be connected there at all. Still curious what that is.

Anyway so you guys are saying all bad rip it all out and start again doing it right?

Yup, tear it all out, and start from scratch, the only way...........

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oi vey.. lol the pain part of it is removing the front bumper again lol.. I called a local car stereo shop. explained everything to them said with out seeing it they'd rewire all properly for $60-85.. not terrible and worth every cent if saves me a blown electrical system.. :) Probably going to have them wire a seprate switch like you said and how i have in my truck .. good times thanks for the 411 guys :)

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The B+ is the connection to the main electrical source. It can be used to add an additional inline fuse connection, relay or fuse box for additional electric operated accessories.

I had an air horn put into my Rover a few weeks back. 2 horns (low/high) one compressor. Dealer installed with a relay and 2 inline fuses as well the wiring has 'fusible' links that melt before the wiring overheats. Dealer states he has done quite a few of these on the Rovers they sell and this is a standard factory approved set up not to void any warranty. I'm waiting for you to resolve your issues and then I may put one into the Spark. I like the sound and they really get the attention of other drivers/pedestrians when needed..... :2thumbs:

Edited by Retired old Gearhead
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its at the car stereo place now .. theyre hooking up a stebel nautilus (when you google super loud car horn it comes up) to the normal horn relays so when you honk like a normal person it goes to that. then wiring the air horns directly to the battery with a separate switch between the cup holders and the shifter. $140 for all of that its a lot but reasonable for all the labor that is involved plus theyre supplying all the new wiring so.. whatever peace of mind that it's done right and lots of loud horns lol.. the air horns I got are much louder than the wolo ones that were there, they're very high pitched but loud .. eh whatcha gunna do.. maybe some day down the raod spring for an actual train horn and onboard compressor and air tank.. and make this puppy slow as hell with the added weight lol..

This is the air horn I got. nice and compact http://www.ebay.com/itm/231558267847?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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I have a Stebel on my boat. Excellent quality and fast compressor..for marine it needs 2 frequencies one low pitch sound ±300Mhz and one high pitch sound ±600Mhz both at 152Db. The low pitch is basically a fog horn and the other a warning or both for docking at a high pier. When choosing a horn for a car keep in mind that the lower the Mhz the deeper the sound and 500++Mhz will give a high pitch. The air horn on the Rover is dual with one at 350Mhz and the other at 800Mhz..combined they are heard loud enough to warn but not high pitched enough to startle. If only the 800Mhz was used at close range or in a parking garage, well, you might give some elderly person a heart attack. :drool:

Looks like you got a good deal on the horns and wise to have a pro hook it up for you....

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