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Tonight my girlfriend was at work(delivers pizza) when her car wouldn't start. She tried starting and removing the key several times before it finally started back up. Starter would only click. After the engine started the anti theft light came on. I disconnected the battery to see if the anti theft light would go away which it did. We had the battery tested to see if it was good still. Which it was good. I don't know if it's the starter acting up or some electrical gremlins messing with the starter. Has anybody had an issue like this?

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Why would the anti theft light come on and stay on though after vehicle was started? And now the radio has some weird problem too. The light display and function buttons on radio goes black(won't light up). Here is the weird part. The radio still works! I just find a little odd that now we're having electrical issues right after car was at the dealership. Which was for the overflow tank.

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Why would the anti theft light come on and stay on though after vehicle was started? And now the radio has some weird problem too. The light display and function buttons on radio goes black(won't light up). Here is the weird part. The radio still works! I just find a little odd that now we're having electrical issues right after car was at the dealership. Which was for the overflow tank.

OK, First off, the anti-theft light comes on if the key was removed and then re-inserted, but should turn off once the car is started. The rest of the electrical problems are probably a result of something disconnected etc, etc while the overflow tank was replaced since this is when the problems started. Might want to indicate to the service guy/gal that these problems on started after the work they had done, other they may not take ownership of the problem and go about checking codes etc..which they may have to do anyway, but as long as they know the problems started after their work, they may take it a bit more seriously since there is nothing they hate more than a negative call to the GM Customer Care guys/girls.

Edited by Retired old Gearhead
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The dealership shouldn't have needed to disconnect anything to replace the overflow tank. I could see disconnecting battery as safety protocol. Other than that I could think of nothing else electrical that would need to unplugged.

3 different issues to figure out. Big question is are they related or separate issues. Any way I can test the solenoid?

My girlfriend has about had it with this 2014 Spark. And I don't blame her. Between all the recalls, poor AC, and now this electrical stuff the car is on its to be traded very soon.

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Loose batery cable is possible, youll get clicking but not starting. also the chip in the key fob may have issues with the not starting, but then you wouldn't even have clicking it jut would do nothing (thats how it was with my 98 caddy any way) possible some one try to steal the car or head unit and wasn't successful and left with out you knowing and could have messed up both.

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Dealership wanted $180 for a new one. I said forget that crap. I called a few parts stores and nobody could find a battery listing for vehicle. So I pulled out old battery, brought it in to Walmart and matched up one that would work. Cost was $74... New battery has 530 cold cranking amps vs 410 cca from factory AC delco battery. There problem solved.

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If the car isn't even 3 years old theres a warranty on the battery, gm should have replaced it for free. (unless you have an amp or something hooked up to it of course then they'll b.s. you)

Ya, but Skids, the 3yr warranty runs out at 36K mi and he has 44Kmi on his. I've used Walmart batteries before and they have quite a good selection of name brands and Walmart generic which although cheap in price are pretty darn good value and certainly as good as AC Delco.

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really i didn't think it had a mileage on it just years? I dont even know what they put in my truck.. some nascar or something only uses this battery b.s. the first one they put took a dump after 3 months. the replacement of that has been in there a while now with no issues. I used to buy optima batteries for all their hype and the red tops one after the other kept dying and couldnt keep a charge, yellow tops were better but when they dies took hours to charge up before you start the car. such a joke.

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Ya Skids, I can relate to the use of 'deep cycle' batteries. I use the Optima Blue® deep cycle for our boat. All Optima are expensive batteries because they are 'deep cycle'..meaning they can be used a long time to power stuff without the engine running. On the boat we paired two..one dedicated to start the big engine and the other as a backup and used to power things like blower fans, pumps, TV, nav gear, etc without having to run the engine while in port. Never had a problem with the Optima blue deep cycle, but for a car you don't need a deep cycle at all. I like the Walmart EverStart series of batteries for car use..surprisingly consistently good, long warranty and cheap for what you get..Walmart warranty is good as one time we brought one EverStart back..all dirty, because it was the wrong size..no questions asked..replaced with another different unit on the spot..Guy even offered to install it as he was not busy at the auto center..So, Ya..you don't need those very expensive deep cycle batteries for a car..BTW that kinda battery is what is used in power wheel chairs as well as they have to run two electric motors for long distances before any recharge is available from the users 120v home charger unit. I don't even think they can be properly charged by a car alternator since they take a long time to charge & charge best with a slow charge and we had to put a special unit between the alternator/generator to keep the charge flow slower or different..not too sure about how all that works to keep the batteries charged since I am not very familiar with electrical/electronic stuff..Whooo..TMI..'Nuff said on that.

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I had a battery last over 8 years in Minnesota, was in 3 different vehicles. Not to mention the battery had a hole in it. The positive cable melted off terminal clamp and into the plastic top of battery. I put a glop of silicone over hole. Was good as new. The battery sat for a few years and was dead. This battery was old style. You could pop the tops off and refill empty cells. Fill with distilled water, put on trickle charge and it was good to go. The battery finally shit the bed when it got to cold on time, froze and cracked the battery. This battery was a generic at that. They don't make batteries like they use to.

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  • 1 year later...
On Saturday, September 05, 2015 at 5:34 PM, Mtf1980 said:

Tonight my girlfriend was at work(delivers pizza) when her car wouldn't start. She tried starting and removing the key several times before it finally started back up. Starter would only click. After the engine started the anti theft light came on. I disconnected the battery to see if the anti theft light would go away which it did. We had the battery tested to see if it was good still. Which it was good. I don't know if it's the starter acting up or some electrical gremlins messing with the starter. Has anybody had an issue like this?

 

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Bought a 2015 Spark new last April.  No problems until at Sunday when Temps dropped to minus 30 degrees over night.  Not sure if cold has anything to do with it.  Took 2 times to turn over.  Huge snow storm drove about 30 miles, went shopping g for about 40 minutes, the lunch about 40 minutes. Came out and wouldn't start.  After 5-6 tries, finally started, but seemed like it was going to die out.  Took to the dealer next day and they ran all kinds of test and couldn't find a problem.  Left dealer, drove for 15 minutes.  Stopped @ store for 40 minutes, came put wouldn't start. Started 2nd try.  Car outside overnight Temps in the Teens.  Started @ 6am.  Drove friend to work on way back stopped at grocery store.  Came out after 30-40  minutes.  Problem again.  Started after third try.  Irritated!  Any suggestions,  anyone?

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  • 5 months later...

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