Rear brakes seized.

[bluer101 241]

Just found out my rear brakes or parking brake is seized. I noticed my mileage been crappy for a while. So I jacked up the rear and tried to spin the tires. It barely moves like the brakes are on. Besides when you put it in neutral and try to push the car it's impossible too. So off to the dealer to figure out what's up and a list of other issues. Mileage is just over 15000.

[Gossamer 50]

Hmmm, I wonder if that could be why I have never gotten decent mileage out of my Spark.

The dealer has rotated the tires twice, and I would hope they would have caught a problem like that, but we are talking about a Chevy dealer!

Now I'm going to have to jack up the car and check it out.

I've only got about 10,500 miles on it so far, and my best all highway mileage was only 37mpg, the best "mixed" mileage was 36 - usual is around 30, and in mostly city driving I've been as low as 24mpg.

It would make me much happier with the car if I could at least get good mileage out of it, since they either can't or won't fix the other problems.

[WaltK 305]

Just found out my rear brakes or parking brake is seized. I noticed my mileage been crappy for a while. So I jacked up the rear and tried to spin the tires. It barely moves like the brakes are on. Besides when you put it in neutral and try to push the car it's impossible too. So off to the dealer to figure out what's up and a list of other issues. Mileage is just over 15000.

Drum brakes usually do have a little drag on them, they are adjusted that way. If they were seized, they would probably be red hot, stinking like hell, and squealing like a pig, it doesn't hurt to get them checked out, but it really does sound normal.

[WaltK 305]

Hmmm, I wonder if that could be why I have never gotten decent mileage out of my Spark.

The dealer has rotated the tires twice, and I would hope they would have caught a problem like that, but we are talking about a Chevy dealer!

Now I'm going to have to jack up the car and check it out.

I've only got about 10,500 miles on it so far, and my best all highway mileage was only 37mpg, the best "mixed" mileage was 36 - usual is around 30, and in mostly city driving I've been as low as 24mpg.

It would make me much happier with the car if I could at least get good mileage out of it, since they either can't or won't fix the other problems.

You are doing a lot better than me, normal city driving, I usually average 30 in the summer, and 27-28 in the winter. I'm amazed at some of the mpg's that are posted on the boards here. I haven't noticed any problems with the mechanics of the car, (fingers crossed), she drives and handles well, so I am assuming that is normal for this car. As far as dealers, mine has been great, but has recently sold out to a group that consists of four dealers, so I'll have to see how that goes.

[bluer101 241]

Drum brakes usually do have a little drag on them, they are adjusted that way. If they were seized, they would probably be red hot, stinking like hell, and squealing like a pig, it doesn't hurt to get them checked out, but it really does sound normal.

A little drag! Lol

I had to put all my weight into the drivers rear to spin it. The passenger rear is not as bad but still not right.

I'm at the dealer now waiting for my loaner spark. I gave them a laundry list of all my issues. Even met with the head mechanic to explain everything to him and on paper. So we will see.

[WaltK 305]

A little drag! Lol

I had to put all my weight into the drivers rear to spin it. The passenger rear is not as bad but still not right.

I'm at the dealer now waiting for my loaner spark. I gave them a laundry list of all my issues. Even met with the head mechanic to explain everything to him and on paper. So we will see.

Really surprised there was no odor, or squealing, usually a dead giveaway, hopefully they will replace the shoes and drums, and finally address all your issues. Good luck! keep us informed.

[bluer101 241]

Really surprised there was no odor, or squealing, usually a dead giveaway, hopefully they will replace the shoes and drums, and finally address all your issues. Good luck! keep us informed.

No smell. I'm mechanically inclined so I was surprised. What tipped me off was getting out of the spark after parking. As the car slightly moves I heard a squeak. Thought it might be rust build up seeing I don't use it. So I drive around the block and pulled the e brake a few times to clean it. That did not work and was shocked after jacking it up.

I have a Blue 2014 lt1 loaner. The AC works good but hate the transmission. I popped the hood and looked at the compressor and such. It's different then my 2013.

[Gossamer 50]

You are doing a lot better than me, normal city driving, I usually average 30 in the summer, and 27-28 in the winter. I'm amazed at some of the mpg's that are posted on the boards here. I haven't noticed any problems with the mechanics of the car, (fingers crossed), she drives and handles well, so I am assuming that is normal for this car. As far as dealers, mine has been great, but has recently sold out to a group that consists of four dealers, so I'll have to see how that goes.

In normal "city" driving I get around 24 - 26mpg, and there is no winter here in the Sweatshine State.

I know you're in the NE (I'm originally from NYC), and I can tell you that even at the height of tourist season or snowbird season there is no comparing the traffic - it is much less congested here!

My average speed according to the DIC the last time I filled up was 48.2mph and I only got 30mpg out of that tank.

When I first got my Spark, I was consistently getting around 37mpg, and they told me it would go up as the car was broken in.

But as the problems started (A/C, transmission, steering, rattling, etc...) my mileage has gotten worse instead of better.

I truly believe that if I had gotten a better Spark (I still say mine is a lemon) I would be doing much better mpg -wise.

But I'm still going to jack it up (if it ever stops raining) and check the brakes!

[Retired old Gearhead 201]

By far the most simple way to see if brakes are binding or too tight is to park on a VERY slight incline and see if the car rolls in neutral, if not just slip it in gear for a second to give it some momentum and see if it continues to glide. Another simple test is to take the car for a drive for a mile or so with as little braking as possible and check the rear drums for heat. Under normal breaking they should be fairly warm, with almost no braking, slightly warm and if binding they will be too hot to touch on both or one side. One way to check if your rear brakes need adjustment is to drive about 5-10 miles with normal braking and check the temp. Well adjusted rear brakes will have at least slight to fairly warm on both drums...cold drums on one or both or cold on one and warm on the other will indicate some adjustment is required or rusted components need some lube, cleaning or adjustment. Even though they are self adjusting dirt or rust can deter that function. The cleaning/lube/ adjustment is a fairly simple do it yourself with parts easily accessable with the wheel and drum removal and there are many articles and vids on the web on how to adjust to specs. If you have no clue or in doubt, don't do it as a bit too tight can cause damage like warping components and steel rims not to mention the safety issue.

[bluer101 241]

By far the most simple way to see if brakes are binding or too tight is to park on a VERY slight incline and see if the car rolls in neutral, if not just slip it in gear for a second to give it some momentum and see if it continues to glide. Another simple test is to take the car for a drive for a mile or so with as little braking as possible and check the rear drums for heat. Under normal breaking they should be fairly warm, with almost no braking, slightly warm and if binding they will be too hot to touch on both or one side. One way to check if your rear brakes need adjustment is to drive about 5-10 miles with normal braking and check the temp. Well adjusted rear brakes will have at least slight to fairly warm on both drums...cold drums on one or both or cold on one and warm on the other will indicate some adjustment is required or rusted components need some lube, cleaning or adjustment. Even though they are self adjusting dirt or rust can deter that function. The cleaning/lube/ adjustment is a fairly simple do it yourself with parts easily accessable with the wheel and drum removal and there are many articles and vids on the web on how to adjust to specs. If you have no clue or in doubt, don't do it as a bit too tight can cause damage like warping components and steel rims not to mention the safety issue.

Yep, the neutral in my driveway was what really tipped me off. I went to roll it back so I could wash my wife's vehicle and mine would not move on the incline. I had to force it pretty hard to get it to roll.

Well with only 15000 miles it's the dealers problem now. We will see what happens plus the list of other things need correcting.

[Retired old Gearhead 201]

One general observation I have made with this car is that many of the mechanical parts are prone to rust as these parts don't seem to be protected with a galvinized coating as is usually applied.

[bluer101 241]

Just to let everyone know that the dealer replaced the rear brake cylinders. Under the rubber boot there was some rust on the cylinder keeping the brakes from returning.

[Retired old Gearhead 201]

When we first purchased the Spark my neighbor came over to have a look and asked me why I had bought such a small and basically under-powered ugly little car and assuming because we had a large house and nice boat tied to our dock, we had the money to buy a better, nicer car. I told him that although we could have spent more cash without payments we wanted a small as possible, well handling, easy to park and drive with some features like hands free phone and USB connection. As a second car we did not want to spend more than necessary pay cash and remain debt free as we have been for a very long time. He said "well my friend I think you will have many expensive problems with this car as Korean cars are made very cheap". He has a young family and has two expensive BMW's ..a sedan and an SUV model for his wife who transports the kids to school etc...both cars are on payment and I know he spends alot on them for service.

Now at well over 50Kmi and 3 yrs the only issue we have found is the rust issue, which I mostly took care of myself. What did surprise me is that the wheel bearings have held up as I discovered that many of the 2013 Sparks were fitted with low quality 3rd party Chinese or Korean bearing assemblies costing the Spark assembly plant as little as 10¢ to $1 per unit with large orders. The cheaper ones had a black stripe and would usually fail before 50Kmi the second better quality had a blue stripe and would last to about 70Kmi and finally the red stripe units costing about 50¢ to $2+ depending on volume had a 100Kmi++ rating..depending on volume availability all three versions were installed in the spark..explaining why some had early failures and some have had no failure. No easy way to find out which bearings you have without a complete hub & bearing removal. I am fairly sure this difference in other parts as well is the reason some have had lots of problems and part failures and others like Walt, leighmaxwell, dulsaf2630, myself and a few others with higher mileage have had zero issues because maybe we were lucky enough to obtain a unit assembled with reasonably good parts and assembled to specs..our car has always had cold A/C, but having my non dealer mechanic up the AC pressure by 1.5-2lbs we now get very cold AC that is almost always on.

We did not buy this car just because it was cheap as we were willing to spend more money, but the Spark had everything we wanted in the way of features, size and handling and the low price was just a bonus. Only thing that would of kept us away from the Spark was if the Brake and gas lines had not been anodized for very good corrosion protection. I think the engine is in fact the stronger aspect of the car..of course if the PCV recall had not been done, the engine would be toast by now. I run the car until the DIC 82 comes on to change the oil and it uses no noticeable 5w20 conventional oil between changes. I get my best experience with this car on long 75-95mph trips and driving in tight traffic areas as well as the ease of parking and the small turning radius when having to make a mid road U-turn or tight parking lots. .... Nuff said and sorry for the long ramble, but I just wanted to put some things in perspective with this type of inexpensively balanced purchase.

[WaltK 305]

Just to let everyone know that the dealer replaced the rear brake cylinders. Under the rubber boot there was some rust on the cylinder keeping the brakes from returning.

Good to hear, at least they looked.

[bluer101 241]

Good to hear, at least they looked.

Yep, working with the service dept is live pulling teeth. They still have my spark and hope to have it today or tomorrow. After arguing with them they are finally putting in a AC compressor. It still makes that high pitch noise every time since I bought my Spark almost 3 years ago. They tried to convince me it's coming from the new low pressure switch installed last year until I argued with my many videos before and after low pressure switch was replaced. It even shows the switch in a few videos not there and videos with it there, so there goes their theory. Lol.

They wanted me to leave it until next week when a GM engineer was coming by to look at it. The engineer was the one that told the service manager that's where the sound is likely coming from, yea right!! It's bad when you have to show them what's wrong. Just imagine what a person with no mechanic knowledge has to go through at a dealer like mine. Then GM and the dealer wonders why the ratings and customer service is in the tank.

[bluer101 241]

Got my Spark back today.

Wheels spin green now. I installed my rims back on too. One thing I do notice even when leaving the dealer is the brake pedal is not the same, a little spongy at the top end. I think there might be a little air in the system from replacing the rear cylinders. I'm going to drive it for a few days to see if it changes or if I was used to the loaner spark for the past 11 days.

If so I might pull the wheels this weekend and re bleed the brakes. It would be easier doing it myself ( with the wife's help of course ) than the dealer crap.

[WaltK 305]

Got my Spark back today.

Wheels spin green now. I installed my rims back on too. One thing I do notice even when leaving the dealer is the brake pedal is not the same, a little spongy at the top end. I think there might be a little air in the system from replacing the rear cylinders. I'm going to drive it for a few days to see if it changes or if I was used to the loaner spark for the past 11 days.

If so I might pull the wheels this weekend and re bleed the brakes. It would be easier doing it myself ( with the wife's help of course ) than the dealer crap.

It sounds like all of your concerns are being addressed, and your Spark is getting back to where it should be, good going, there are times when aggressiveness pays, although it shouldn't have to come to that, the dealers should do the right thing, right from the getgo.

[bluer101 241]

It sounds like all of your concerns are being addressed, and your Spark is getting back to where it should be, good going, there are times when aggressiveness pays, although it shouldn't have to come to that, the dealers should do the right thing, right from the getgo.

After driving again this morning the brakes are not right.

The brake pedal does not seem firm at all until over halfway pressed. Then when you let up on the pedal it seems like the front brakes are delayed release.

I believe this is due to air in the rear lines still. But something is not right.

[WaltK 305]

Yep, the spongy pedal is air, bleeding will take care of that. The late release of the front pads, I don't know. I'd take it back, let them go over it, and get it right.

[bluer101 241]

Well took my rims off again, starting to think I'm working for nascar, lol.

Today on the way to the dealer and home the pedal is very spongy and pretty much goes all the way to the floor. So I'm going to swing by the dealer tomorrow and have the brakes done while I wait.

[wkkzx10 4]

Well took my rims off again, starting to think I'm working for nascar, lol.

Today on the way to the dealer and home the pedal is very spongy and pretty much goes all the way to the floor. So I'm going to swing by the dealer tomorrow and have the brakes done while I wait.

I am sorry to hear about the issues you are having but i must say i am happy to hear we are not the only ones in the world that have issues with the stealerships. They always try and find a way to make it your fault and when you actually show them and prove they are at fault they make a joke of it.

In South Africa the stealerships charge so much for everything they do that it is not even worth it taking the vehicles to them to do any work.

Edited August 21, 2015 by wkkzx10

[bluer101 241]

Brought it by the dealer to have the brakes taken care of this am. The service manager immediately had the tech take it out back and fix it. Took about 15-20 minutes until done.

Got it home to put my wheels back on and something told me to view my dash cam. I had my dash cam removed for the 11-12 days but put it back in after I got my car back a few days ago.

Well what I have seen and heard from the tech's in the videos, IMHO are quite unacceptable. Just things you don't want to see or hear when they are suppose to be taking car of your vehicle.

Yes, my Spark's brakes are now firm like before and my parking brake handle only needs to be pulled up a few inches to engage tightly vs before all the way pulled up. After bleeding the brakes there was brake fluid all over the rear suspension components. It was all over the suspension springs, back of hub, and all down in the spring bucket and perch. I cleaned it with brake cleaner and degreaser while changing my wheels back out. I'm glad I did not leave my black wheels on or they would have been destroyed from the brake fluid.

Yes, my car is back to somewhat normal mechanically. The brakes work, the seat is done, the recirculate flap is fixed, and the AC is great now.