gorp 0 Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 We (my wife is principal driver) got a 2014 1LT spark. We love small cars. I like primitive small cars, which my 1LT is. The only way it could be better is if it had manual roll down windows like our Aveo had. I tried the other spark forum but it is as dead as a doorknob. I will repeat my questions here. 1. Does anybody know of a really good bike rack solution? 2. What is the logic behind the shift indicator on the electronic display? It goes on and off all the time. If you followed it every time you would be in fifth gear going 30 mph. The only way I have found to keep it quiet is to go exactly 2000 rpm in whatever gear. I accelerate slowly. As soon as I shift, right after that, it wants me to shift again, in one second, as soon as I touch the accelerator pedal at all. 3. My only complaint is the lack of a temperature gauge. Every car has a temperature gauge. I'll bet the cars sold overseas have a temperature gauge. Link to post Share on other sites
Greg_E 211 Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 There was a post in here on the bicycle rack that a couple people were using, worth a search as it has been buried for about 8 months. Shift light also seems to want to tell you when to shift down a gear, but someone forget to give it a down arrow. Yes I think it is stupid too and it may not give you the best mileage either, eventually you won't really notice that arrow anymore. Yes, it should have a temp guage of some kind, somewhere. Link to post Share on other sites
malibuguy 14 Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 My Yaris does not have a temp gauge...but it has indicators...a "cold" indicator that goes off at 128* and a "overheating" light that I havent found out when that comes on yet Im assuming the Spark has a hot one too...as it doesnt have a cold one Link to post Share on other sites
stevesparky 20 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Regarding carrying a Bike, and you don't have the factory installed roof rails: the best bet is to install a frame mounted rear hitch with a 1 1/2" receiver and mount a bike rack to it. Will be pricey. Link to post Share on other sites
gorp 0 Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Regarding carrying a Bike, and you don't have the factory installed roof rails: the best bet is to install a frame mounted rear hitch with a 1 1/2" receiver and mount a bike rack to it. Will be pricey. My wife is not tall enough to use the roof rack. I agree a tow hitch is the best solution, as neither the rack or bike will contact the vehicle. I found a good hitch rack but what about the hitch should I get one mounted at u-haul or is it easy to DIY? Link to post Share on other sites
Greg_E 211 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 The instructions make it sound really easy to install the hitch kits, especially since you don't care about the lighting interface. Biggest I found was inch and a quarter receiver size so you might need a step up adapter depending on your rack. Link to post Share on other sites
austex04 48 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 You don't want to excede 2 bikes with a hitch mounted rack, becouse the rear suspension can't carry much weight. Link to post Share on other sites
TheDrip 25 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I installed a Curt brand hitch a couple weeks ago... 45 minutes from opening the box, actually read the directions to completed install. It would have been 15 minutes flat, but I fiddled around with elongating the holes. I didn't take the time to find the right tool, and it took me 5 times as long as it should have. Elongating those holes is the only gut wrenching part of a hitch install. Cutting into brand new car metal is sure a lot easier when it's someone else's brand new car. Smikster 1 Link to post Share on other sites
gorp 0 Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 (edited) I installed a Curt brand hitch a couple weeks ago... 45 minutes from opening the box, actually read the directions to completed install. It would have been 15 minutes flat, but I fiddled around with elongating the holes. I didn't take the time to find the right tool, and it took me 5 times as long as it should have. Elongating those holes is the only gut wrenching part of a hitch install. Cutting into brand new car metal is sure a lot easier when it's someone else's brand new car. Ding ding ding ding! We have a winner. The Curt hitch is made to fit the Spark and supposedly does not require drilling. I am also surprised no one mentioned that Edge products makes an OBD-II color monitor that provides a temperature display. I guess the Spark is not the kind of car that inspires an active user community. Edited March 12, 2014 by gorp Link to post Share on other sites
psquare75 35 Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Edge and a few other companies have those plug and play 'display a gauge' units. a Diesel F350 has much more room to accomodate one of these than a Spark... I kept the A pillar from my fiance's wreck and I'm just putting two gauges on it, oil pres and engine temp. Link to post Share on other sites
gorp 0 Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) I got delivery of my Curt hitch receiver. They kind of fool you because they say "does not require drilling." However you need to enlarge holes that are already present in frame members, and install the receiver into them. Has anyone considered whether it's a good idea to stop these holes? Aren't the original holes there to ensure drainage? Edited March 19, 2014 by gorp Link to post Share on other sites
TheDrip 25 Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 The holes are used for the production jigs at the factory. There are plenty of other holes if you're worried about drainage. I slotted mine out, then applied primer and a bedliner/undercoat product to protect from rust. Link to post Share on other sites
Greg_E 211 Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Could you also change the holes in the hitch to correctly match the holes in the frame? I still haven't added a hitch and the way my car is running, it wouldn't pull a single jetski or single motorcycle so adding a hitch is now pointless to me (no bicycles to haul). Link to post Share on other sites
Gossamer 50 Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 If the hitch installs like the hitch for my HHR did (it also needed to "elongate" the holes), the problem is not the placement of the holes, it is the size of the holes. The holes have to be big enough to insert threaded rectangular blocks into the frame rails so that there is something for the hitch to actually bolt to. The blocks are big enough so that when tightened they contact the sides of the frame rails, and can not spin like a normal nut would, since you can't get a wrench inside the rails to hold the nuts. Link to post Share on other sites
Greg_E 211 Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 If you pull the bumper cover, you might be able to slide those blocks in from the end. Link to post Share on other sites
Gossamer 50 Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 After thinking about it, I realized that I am mistaken. The blocks had square holes in them, and I had to put the blocks in and then fish step bolts through the hole in the rail and into the block so that the nuts and washers could be installed from the bottom. I don't think that would be possible from the end of the frame rail. Link to post Share on other sites
TheDrip 25 Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 it might still be possible, but it would involve a lot of swearing. The install kit comes with 18" long wires for fishing the bolts, which are VERY nicely wrapped at the end so they actually thread on to the bolt. I don't know for sure if that box section is open to the rear or not. Link to post Share on other sites
gorp 0 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the replies. I think Mr. Drip is correct and drainage should not be an issue. ALERT: THIS IS NOT A DIY FOR MOST PEOPLE. DO NOT BUY THE CURT RECEIVER. I have it at a custom muffler shop today for installation. I do not know yet how much he will charge me. Having them install the stupid Curt product for me. 1. For $70 over the cost of a Curt receiver ($135), U-HAUL will install a receiver, the cost for parts+installation is a little over $200. 2. The installation as shown in the Curt instructions puts the receiver TOO CLOSE to the muffler tailpipe. It will rattle, especially if you went over speed bump or similiar. 3. Curt is not the best solution, probably the best solution is U-HAUL. They do a lot of them and will probably do less damage than your DIY, unless you work at a muffler shop. Edited March 20, 2014 by gorp Link to post Share on other sites
Greg_E 211 Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 The big thing about DIY is being able to get under the car. All of the kits I looked at required drilling a hole right next to an existing hole, having worked under the back end of the car for several hours, ramps are a requirement for this job and a lift would make it easy. Link to post Share on other sites
gorp 0 Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Here it is. The guy charged me $90. He welded plates over where the existing holes were and then cut through the reinforced area to install the bolts. He also said he "rearranged" the exhaust a little. There is a good clearance between the receiver and the tailpipe. Here's the result: Link to post Share on other sites
Ataristic 5 Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 We (my wife is principal driver) got a 2014 1LT spark. We love small cars. I like primitive small cars, which my 1LT is. The only way it could be better is if it had manual roll down windows like our Aveo had. I tried the other spark forum but it is as dead as a doorknob. I will repeat my questions here. 1. Does anybody know of a really good bike rack solution? 2. What is the logic behind the shift indicator on the electronic display? It goes on and off all the time. If you followed it every time you would be in fifth gear going 30 mph. The only way I have found to keep it quiet is to go exactly 2000 rpm in whatever gear. I accelerate slowly. As soon as I shift, right after that, it wants me to shift again, in one second, as soon as I touch the accelerator pedal at all. 3. My only complaint is the lack of a temperature gauge. Every car has a temperature gauge. I'll bet the cars sold overseas have a temperature gauge. 1. Cant help with this one 2. Shift indicator is supposed to indicate the best time to shift based on engine load, but it is seldom accurate in any car, let alone the Spark. It is better to just shift up around 2500 for best fuel economy or higher if needed for acceleration 3. Sparks have a temperature trouble light, Sparks sold overseas are the same way. Link to post Share on other sites
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