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Oil change intervals


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I'd say that the oil you are using is simply too thick to get to the bearings soon after start up, particularly if you live in an area with cold winters. The biggest portion of wear on bearings happ

First time at 500 miles. Dino oil every 3000 miles or synthetic every 5000. Don't listen to all that 10,000 mile hype. It won't "break" your engine, but it will increase the wear and shorten the l

With the whole range of optical sensor and friction sensors that are available, you would think they would actually monitor the oil and tell you when it is getting thin, or not slippery enough, or too

My owner's guide says every 7,500 miles, "as needed". There's a warning signal that let's you know when the oil needs changing. It's based on engine demand calculations made by the engine's computer. Temps, revs, climate, distance, etc.

The transmission oil gets changed at 97k miles I think.

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I also have a 2013 Spark LS , like to do my own work, does anyone know where to get an oil filter for it and the stock number, also I would like to replace the spark plugs with Bosch paltinum +4 any info on that part # ? Wally13, Florida

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I also have a 2013 Spark LS , like to do my own work, does anyone know where to get an oil filter for it and the stock number, also I would like to replace the spark plugs with Bosch paltinum +4 any info on that part # ? Wally13, Florida

That's a good question! Might have to go to the dealer for the oil filter until the aftermarket vendors pick up on the new filter type (assuming its nonstandard). I think you have to reset a code (82) when you're done. Your owner's manual may give the plug type. I may do a plug upgrade too and see if it helps fuel economy.

Wayne

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I also have a 2013 Spark LS , like to do my own work, does anyone know where to get an oil filter for it and the stock number, also I would like to replace the spark plugs with Bosch paltinum +4 any info on that part # ? Wally13, Florida

I would call the dealer I am sure that they know

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I own 2013 spark ls manual, the interval in the book says roughly every 6,000 miles. me personally i am doing my first one at 500 miles, as the engine is broken in lots of metal shavings can end up in the oil and i think it's better to just change it now instead of letting it cycle through the engine continually. as for the filter it's a dealer only part right now, came to $6.99 at my dealer.

also reguarding the Bosch +4's i personally wouldn't change to those. GM employs lots of technicians and they do all sorts of testing, the if they found they could get better fuel economy by using those, they would love to use them as OEM and enjoy the boosted epa estimates on fuel economy.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I own 2013 spark ls manual, the interval in the book says roughly every 6,000 miles. me personally i am doing my first one at 500 miles, as the engine is broken in lots of metal shavings can end up in the oil and i think it's better to just change it now instead of letting it cycle through the engine continually. as for the filter it's a dealer only part right now, came to $6.99 at my dealer.

also reguarding the Bosch +4's i personally wouldn't change to those. GM employs lots of technicians and they do all sorts of testing, the if they found they could get better fuel economy by using those, they would love to use them as OEM and enjoy the boosted epa estimates on fuel economy.

500 miles? I never thought of that

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We were talking about this at the dealer Thursday, they just are not making it to this area at all and I think some of that has to do with the mentality of the buyers in this region. Even with gas going for above $3.50 for the last few years I still see mostly great big gas hogs around here. I've always been buying smaller cars so this lack of supply is really hurting me. You have any Red LS manual in the area? If my guys could broker the deal I'd find a way down to drive it back, they've been great so I can't cut them out of a deal because I'd feel really guilty.

Anyway, back on topic... When you are having the first oil change are you having synthetic or "regular" oil poured in? Doing this at the dealer or at an independant service shop or chain service place?

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Anyway, back on topic... When you are having the first oil change are you having synthetic or "regular" oil poured in? Doing this at the dealer or at an independant service shop or chain service place?

You have to use ONLY synthetic 5w30 DEXTOS II from AC delco or MOBIL 1 (it's the only one DEXTOS II certified), check your warranty, most dealers won't make your warranty valid if don't do the services with them.

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  • 7 months later...

I thought the engine required 0w20. If not it would definitely not hurt the field econ! A 0w20 oil (syn only) would be a much better choice as u could go easily 10,000mi with it. Maybe even 15,000mi like if its amsoil signature 0w20 or even Mobil 1 0w20 advanced fuel economy. What is important is the tbn. Or total base number of the oil. The higher the better for long life. Hths is another but its off topic. The Toyota syn 0w20 has a really high tbn.

U could use a 0w30 but really....a 0w20 ain't gonna hurt the engine. We don't have high perf engines here getting abused, nor a turbocharger. If that were the case then a euro oil in 0w30 would be great like German castrol edge 0w30 available at auto zones everywhere. Its a great oil and a true sun and I've got like 25 liters of it. But its too thick. Its almost a 40 viscosity oil and that my friends would ruin fuel economy.

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I've heard of the German Castrol being on the thick side. Mobile 1 is just the opposite, the 5w30 is almost like a 5w20 grade. I'm going to use 0w30 in mine, after the free dealer oil change. I don't want to be the first to remove the oil filter, since it was put on by a machine without oil coating the seal. For warranty reasons, go by what the oil monitor tells you, and log the date and mileage on the receipt. Don't do extended drain intervals with extended life oil until the warranty expires.

Edited by austex04
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