Romeo62185 10 Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 in order to get the rear springs to settle you have to put some weight in the trunk. The engine helps the front but there's nothing in the back. Link to post Share on other sites
TheDrip 25 Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 (edited) B&G springs, 17x7 +38 wheels, 205/40R17 Hercules Wraptis WR1 tires. 4 springs took me less than 90 minutes once I had collected all the tools I needed. What I didnt have on hand was a 24mm socket for the strut tower nut. I think I can list all the tools from memory though. 24mm socket 18mm socket 15mm socket 24mm wrench 18mm wrench T50 torx key Ratchets to match Spring compressor Jack 2 stands And of course whatever socket you need to get your wheels off. The whole job was made a LOT quicker with wanton use of an impact gun. Edited December 26, 2015 by TheDrip Link to post Share on other sites
Retired old Gearhead 201 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Not quite sure why anyone would want to increase the wheel size to 17" thus having a lower profile tire with a rougher ride and then lowering a perfectly good car..not entirely sure what is the benefit in doing this?..Still, I do admire and respect anyone doing their own work on a vehicle..no matter what. Link to post Share on other sites
psquare75 35 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Appearance ROG... no different than the big and little look in the 70s.. TheDrip, do you have any rubbing lock it lock? Link to post Share on other sites
TheDrip 25 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 No rub lock to lock, I do have a tiny ziiiiip rub (anyone with a lowered car knows what I mean) on big bumps on the freeway. just rubbing away an odd corner in the plastic of the inner liner. Link to post Share on other sites
psquare75 35 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Front or rear? Link to post Share on other sites
TheDrip 25 Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 (edited) Both, but the front more pronounced and often. There is a "nub" in the top of the wheel well toward the outside of the car. I suspect there is a screw behind it, but it has barely even made a mark on the plastic. The rear hardly touches, and it rubs flat at the top. no hidden screws or such to cause concern. That said, after 1 week of commuting to work, I know every bump that causes an issue and what speed I can go over it. Just take a little more care when driving, something familiar to anyone that has owned a lowered vehicle before. Edited January 5, 2016 by TheDrip Link to post Share on other sites
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