NOMAD 1 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Tommyspark, with the way you are approaching it, it's a good idea to keep both ends open to prevent suction in the event of getting submerged. That being said, the idea of cutting open the fog light hole and taking the air from there would be the best bet, right? All fresh air, way away from the manifold. If you took all of your air from there and none from the factory snorkel, you'd probably get your best IAT temps? But, then the worry of sucking in water. Heck, up here, I'd be worried about plugging the hole with snow. Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 (edited) This would indeed be the best intake setup; for numerous reasons. But a water purge valve would be absolutely mandatory! And yes you could easily clog it up with snow..... But if done right, that type of ram air would be the best. The only thing I'd be worried about would be the stock ECM not being able to calculate the higher air flow rate successfully; which would affect the AFR. (air to fuel ratio) Our ECM's run a "commanded" AFR. 14:70 is just about perfect, so this is what the ECM recalculates to or commands the engine to run in the event it gets thrown off. With a ram air setup, especially at highway speeds, I'm not so sure the factory ECM could or would calculate fast enough, which would throw your AFR off which is never good..... Edited October 23, 2013 by tommyspark Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 They say 70 MPH is the equivilent to 3 PSI of boost; if your ECM can handle the flow rates..... not to mention the MAF sensor Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 So until someone learns how to flash or program our ECM's; ram air may be on hold lol Link to post Share on other sites
NOMAD 1 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Well, it probably doesn't relate, but I know that the factory MAF for LS1 engines were good to 600 hp, even though the engines from the factory were under 400. We could do a lot of modification to the engine and keep the factory MAF on those engines. Heck, the factory MAF was ultra superior to the aftermarket ones. Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Its not the MAF that's the determining factor; its the ECM Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 ECM controls AFR. If we get aroud this, then the MAF would be next. Id.like to say maybe there's a.chance the ECM could handle it; but on a 1.2 NA engine; I doubt it :/ Link to post Share on other sites
psquare75 35 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 I remember lots of tuner kids used to use these on their OBD 1 cars.. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafc.htm Link to post Share on other sites
NOMAD 1 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Tommyspark, what is this "TURBO" you keep referencing? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 I didn't say anything about a turbo?! Link to post Share on other sites
NOMAD 1 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 My bad, "torque" was what you were saying. Is that a software program? Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 http://chevysparkforum.com/topic/1531-torque-app/#entry11396 Here ya go Link to post Share on other sites
NOMAD 1 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Thank you Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 No problem Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 On the way home tonight, it was 53 degrees. At operating temps, (210 degree engine temp) at 45 MPH, the IAT read........ 53.6 degrees I'm hoping to have time to wrap the actual intake tube tomorrow. Hopefully it helps Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 (edited) Here is what mine ended up looking like today..... I bought a piece of flexible plastic tubing that fits snug into the stock snorkel and would flex to fit where I needed it. I wrapped it up in Gorilla tape.. I ran out of the HRT so....... I then drilled "relief holes" as I like to call them on both sides of the new snorkel. Didn't want it sucking in too hard where it is.... Edited October 24, 2013 by tommyspark Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 It actually pulls in air harder than I thought it would from the grill. Makes a nice little "whistle" with barely any throttle. I'll try to get a video a little bit later. Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 (edited) Just did a test drive to my pops house and back. 19 miles round trip, outside air was 58 degrees. Ironically, my intake temp now reads 2 degrees higher than before. So about 2 -3 degrees higher than outside temps. There is a difinitive power difference between 2500 & 4000 RMP. And I mean definitive! However, Not so much after that. While cruising around 58 MPH, it took very little throttle to get the Spark to go. And with a little gas or a further push of the gas pedal, this is where you notice the power increase. Which works for me seeing as I always try keep RPMs no higher than 4K. I did my weekly blow out (floored it) from 0-60 twice. The first time was wide open throttle all the way to redline through the gears. Honestly, I felt as though it ran the same as before. But under less throttle I got what seemed to be better times. (I didn't officially time it) I allowed the car to rev up no higher than 4500 RPM. But once again, you could definitely feel the power difference. I took the highway route there, and the city route home. Pulled back into my driveway with an MPG AVG of 43.3. Even with the two 0-60 runs..... Edited October 24, 2013 by tommyspark Link to post Share on other sites
NOMAD 1 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Nice work. It seems like this engine really likes the cool, fresh air, not warm air. Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 It does indeed. But there's a very noticeable power drop.after about 4500 - 4800 RPM... But this, for.me, makes it.a.win win mod. Lower RPM=more torque & lower RPM obviously means.better gas mileage Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 I guess in a nut shell what I'm saying is between 2500 & 4700ish RPMs, you can just feel the car move better, or pull harder. After that, the power seems to drop back down I'll post improvements etc as I drive it around the next few days. Link to post Share on other sites
tommyspark 24 Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 I revamped the mod a little bit. I did a "string test" yesterday, and it was sucking in air a little too much/hard. I obviously don't want to suck in water, so it's now no longer actually down in the stock snorkel. It's still in the same spot in the grill, but now only rams air in. I have to recommend this mod. It's totally legit. I guess the IAT sensor and ECM needed some drive time to adjust or recalibate, but now while at 20 MPH and up, the IAT reads exactly the same, to the decibel, as the outside air. While at lights, stop signs, slow moving traffic or idle, the IAT doesn't go above 5-7 degrees above outside air. However, it IMMIDIATELY drops back down right when the car begins to move/accelerate; whereas it used to take about 60 seconds or so. The more I drive it, the more power I feel in the RPM range I mentioned before. Barely laying into the throttle at all, the car pulls noticeably harder. Someone on here's going to try to deny it, say there's no way etc, but take my words for it. Definitive power gain. Obviously the Spark isn't running commendable 0-60 times, but this mod without a doubt helped. I can not say if this mod alone helped due to the exhaust work I have but some time this week I'm doing the mod to our LS to see if it's due to the intake alone. Now I just need an ECM flash Link to post Share on other sites
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