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Found 5 results

  1. Looking to maybe install rear speakers on the base model. Does anybody have any experience with this? Does the radio need an amp added to it? Thanks!
  2. I have a 2013 chevy spark it's still under warranty so I cannot change the alternator I gotta keep it otherwise I would be getting a high output alternator but I cannot get it cuz it would void the warranty I was gonna get a optima deep cycle 34r battery I got a kicker 400watt amplifier and one alpine type r in a ported box if I got that deep cycle battery would it be fine and would my car be able to handle it? Or would it fry my battery or alternator or possibly both of them?
  3. Long story short, I am prior military, real hard of hearing so the stereo has to be loud. I also own 2 restaurants and have to lay down the rear seats to do runs to pick up ingredients ect. about 4-5 days a week.(yes the back is 100% full) (yes I know I need a truck or van) (working with what i've got) This being said, in or out of the kitchen, music pretty much gets me through the day. As I am sure all of you are aware, the stock system is the worst thing in history. I have done some switches already to the stock speakers, switching to the kickers all around. Night and day difference from what it once was. However, I'm wanting to improve the bass. I have been all over online trying to find a custom sub enclosure that will use as little "trunk" space as possible, to allow me to continue to do what I have to until I find another means of transport. I Looked into building my own in the spare wheel well but I don't want boxes to sit on the speaker. I looked into building a box that fits snug on the right side of the trunk, but it will still go about 9" into the space to allow enough room for the 1728 cubic inches of air space for the speaker. I've also looked into the under the seat full enclosed subs but there is so many options I'm stuck suggestions please. help.
  4. Hi guys and gals, I just wanted to drop in and say hello, and show off what I have done thus far. Some of it, you may all not agree with, but that's okay, and by no means do you have to go out and do it yourself. First, a little precursor. I purchased my '13 Spark LS manual in Salsa red from a local Ford dealer for as near as makes no difference to $8800 with 23k miles on the clock. I had been unceremoniously thrown into the car buying game again by a careless driver in an Exlporer, who crossed the center line and totaled my '03 Beetle. I am a tinkerer of sorts, the Beetle and vehicles before it were never left alone, so neither was the Spark. I will try, to the best of my ability, to remember all the little things I have done so far, because I think they improve upon the car from a "fun" perspective, and I want to share my experiences with all of you so that you may choose to try some of them. Basic stuff, like plastidipping wheels and blacking out the chrome on the front grilles, is straightforward enough, there are only a million how-tos on that all across the internet. But that is done, first graphite then white on the wheels, as well as badges. I unbolted and removed the rearmost muffler from the car, I find this creates a pleasing, yet quiet exhaust tone, comparable to that of a stock motorcycle. Considering these engines are only a few 100ccs away from liter bikes, this isn't too far fetched. If you don't like it, simply bolt it back up. I plan to cut the stock muffler off and reuse the piping, just to "delete" the muffler and continue the exhaust to where it initially ended. More serious things (read irreversible) entail lopping 2" give or take off the shifter to shorten the throw and add a nice aluminum knob. (Use a hair tie or ziptie to hold your boot up) Also, (gasp) I gave the springs a trim. 1 coil each from all 4 offers what I'm assuming is about a 3/4" to 1" drop. Maybe just a tad lower in the rear. My car is well out of it's bumper to bumper warranty, and I've had generally positive experiences with lightly trimming springs, both stock and lowered. I know this is by no means the proper way to lower a car, so spare yourself the time of telling me I'm a hack. Worth knowing, however, is aside from needing an alignment, the car still rides remarkably well (firmer, although I thought the car was already firm) with very minimal trouble or discomfort over large bumps. Handling, is also improved, as the spring rate is slightly higher, the car tends to take longer to initiate body roll. By no means do I recommend doing this, but if you are curious, the results are here. Modifications that actually costed money included the Metra dash kit (an EXCELLENT piece/kit, fit and finish is phenomenal) to install a Pioneer DDIN radio paired to some various wal-mart speakers. Better speakers and a subwoofer to come. As many have said, the rear speakers are a nonstandard size and require some creativity to install. I used large washers on the holes that did line up to hold them down...or up, rather. No issues as of yet. My favorite mod that cost money was the DC Sports CAI. This is a beautiful and easy to install piece which really in my honest opinion is worth the money. The ugly mess of stock intake is removed for a single, clean looking pipe routed down to the inner fender where a lifetime K&N style DRY filter resides. Better yet is the wonderful intake noise...oh the noise. Quiet, at low RPMS, very unintrusive. But step on the skinny pedal and the 1.2 gasps for air and the resulting howl is reminiscent again of a motorcycle. Throttle response and pull all over the rev range seem to be better too. But, fair warning, I do have a CEL for being too lean, which is wishy washy and goes in and out. I feel like a new MAF or the JET MAF would alleviate this situation. I am not overly concerned as of this writing as it has not shown any signs of detonation or otherwise poor running. I think my last and most recent little mod was an EZlip from eBay. I think it looks nice. Just peel and stick... I hope you enjoyed my thoughts, and please feel free to share yours. I just thought I finally had something worth posting. Thanks!
  5. I just installed some aftermarket speakers and what a difference! For the extra $0.20 per vehicle GM should have used coaxials at least (and if you have the room why not a big standard size hole for the speakers?). I wonder though, I have been changing speakers in cars for 20 years and the stockers still have L shaped connectors but the speakers have 2 terminals side by side. I realize some cars might use something different but why don't the speaker guys use the same L shape for their terminals? Seems like a no brainer. My real question is, I have the base model and swapped the 4 speakers for a matched set of 4 but the fader has to be R6 - R8 to even hear the rear speakers. I know they are way back there and don't have an enclosure but is there something in the radio that cuts power to the rear? I plan on changing out the head unit so I guess I'll find out...